boosting on circut/auto-x?
alright... i just want to know if boost on a circut is any good?like would it create to much stress on the motor and turbo? i dont plan on crazy boost...just rebuild to where it can withstand and boost maby 10? or would it just be better to stay all-motor ?? i have a 00 civic si and i know that all-motor in a coupe is slowwwww since its kinda heavy... any input would be very helpful...thanks.
tony
p.s. sorry if its been covered... i tried searching but nothing... i guess im not good at searching up things..
tony
p.s. sorry if its been covered... i tried searching but nothing... i guess im not good at searching up things..
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostedEMone »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alright... i just want to know if boost on a circut is any good?like would it create to much stress on the motor and turbo? i dont plan on crazy boost...just rebuild to where it can withstand and boost maby 10? or would it just be better to stay all-motor ?? i have a 00 civic si and i know that all-motor in a coupe is slowwwww since its kinda heavy... any input would be very helpful...thanks.
tony
p.s. sorry if its been covered... i tried searching but nothing... i guess im not good at searching up things..</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you have any plans of officially racing the car with SCCA or NASA, you can't boost the car.
if it's just for fun, and to run open lapping sessions, you can do it--but you have to keep a very close eye on the car. get a full compliment of guages to monitor stuff like EGT and oil temps.
ht user "weston" tracks his turbo dc, IIRC...
NA or even stock engine builds may seem slow, but once you learn how to drive, they're not as slow as you think.
tony
p.s. sorry if its been covered... i tried searching but nothing... i guess im not good at searching up things..</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you have any plans of officially racing the car with SCCA or NASA, you can't boost the car.
if it's just for fun, and to run open lapping sessions, you can do it--but you have to keep a very close eye on the car. get a full compliment of guages to monitor stuff like EGT and oil temps.
ht user "weston" tracks his turbo dc, IIRC...
NA or even stock engine builds may seem slow, but once you learn how to drive, they're not as slow as you think.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you have any plans of officially racing the car with SCCA or NASA, you can't boost the car.
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Sure you can... you're just severely limited to which classes you can run. HU with NASA, possibly also Super Production. Don't think there are any in SCCA.
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Sure you can... you're just severely limited to which classes you can run. HU with NASA, possibly also Super Production. Don't think there are any in SCCA.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you have any plans of officially racing the car with SCCA or NASA, you can't boost the car. </TD></TR></TABLE>
NASA has a class.. Honda challege HU
NASA has a class.. Honda challege HU
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by REDEVIL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Boosting would defenectly be fun, but the fact that it might make ur car unreliable defeacts the purpose of boosting it.......
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Reliability is all in the build. I'd agree on the biggest issue being the limitations of classing for a turbo setup.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Reliability is all in the build. I'd agree on the biggest issue being the limitations of classing for a turbo setup.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by splitime »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Reliability is all in the build. I'd agree on the biggest issue being the limitations of classing for a turbo setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What factors would be of most concern in regards to reliability?
I'm considering boosting my Civic but, if it's going to be an issue on track it's not worth it. I've tracked the car with a JRSC and had no issues. Would the turbo be that much different?
Reliability is all in the build. I'd agree on the biggest issue being the limitations of classing for a turbo setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What factors would be of most concern in regards to reliability?
I'm considering boosting my Civic but, if it's going to be an issue on track it's not worth it. I've tracked the car with a JRSC and had no issues. Would the turbo be that much different?
I ran an entire summer with my turbo'ed Impreza 2.5RS.
when they run well they run really well, but when things go wrong they go very wrong and very quickly...
if you want to road race - i'd sugest staying away, if you just want to run a few AutoXes a year, and hit some HPDE's, and aren't afraid of breaking things and are good working on the car yourself, go for it.
I am very happy with the direction i've gone (aftermarket forced induction) because i have no real interest in w2w racing, and enjoy working on the car almost as much as driving it on track.
I am also prepared for somethin to break catastrophically at any time, that's just part of "the game"
as for cooling issues, you will be making a lot more heat, so you need to keep a close eye on it, as I indicated before, when things are runnign well, I have no problems keeping things ool, but if somethign goes wrong, things go bad real quick (from "normal" to boiling coolant in the engine within 2 miles on track when i lost a charge pipe, for instance - the coolant boiled before i even ralized something was wrong)
when they run well they run really well, but when things go wrong they go very wrong and very quickly...
if you want to road race - i'd sugest staying away, if you just want to run a few AutoXes a year, and hit some HPDE's, and aren't afraid of breaking things and are good working on the car yourself, go for it.
I am very happy with the direction i've gone (aftermarket forced induction) because i have no real interest in w2w racing, and enjoy working on the car almost as much as driving it on track.
I am also prepared for somethin to break catastrophically at any time, that's just part of "the game"
as for cooling issues, you will be making a lot more heat, so you need to keep a close eye on it, as I indicated before, when things are runnign well, I have no problems keeping things ool, but if somethign goes wrong, things go bad real quick (from "normal" to boiling coolant in the engine within 2 miles on track when i lost a charge pipe, for instance - the coolant boiled before i even ralized something was wrong)
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