Axles
I wasn't going to say much about axles till I did some more playing with my car. But an H-T brutha with a question overrides all that.
I was talking to Scott Zellner again the other day and among my questions were some about axles and cv's. He says that the number one reason for failure is running the car low with lots of negative camber and basically using up all the plunge in the cv's - at that point you're putting compressive loads on the axle assemby that it was never designed for.
I asked what he knew about www.driveshaftshop.com ? He said that they were drag racers. He also said that if you treat the factory axle/cv assemblies right you don't need anything else. Treating them right both in terms of the above mentioned installation/operation detail, and frequent regreasing with $$$$$$Mugen's new grease (or Swepco or Redline if you just can't see paying so much more - though Scott says it's worth it and his word is not to be dismissed lightly).
One of the things that bugged me when I was looking at the driveshaftshop site was their criticism of the factory cv metalurgy. I'm used to all of the ways people sell against competition or the status quo, but this one is a little hard to take.
A question I have yet to ask Scott is: what about a slightly shortened stock axle so that we can run where we want without the axle length based problems (though this might create new short axle length type problems unless we control our droop travel).
Scott, who had serious concern about his axles.....till he developed more serious concerns about his rod bearings and valves......it's always something.....
I was talking to Scott Zellner again the other day and among my questions were some about axles and cv's. He says that the number one reason for failure is running the car low with lots of negative camber and basically using up all the plunge in the cv's - at that point you're putting compressive loads on the axle assemby that it was never designed for.
I asked what he knew about www.driveshaftshop.com ? He said that they were drag racers. He also said that if you treat the factory axle/cv assemblies right you don't need anything else. Treating them right both in terms of the above mentioned installation/operation detail, and frequent regreasing with $$$$$$Mugen's new grease (or Swepco or Redline if you just can't see paying so much more - though Scott says it's worth it and his word is not to be dismissed lightly).
One of the things that bugged me when I was looking at the driveshaftshop site was their criticism of the factory cv metalurgy. I'm used to all of the ways people sell against competition or the status quo, but this one is a little hard to take.
A question I have yet to ask Scott is: what about a slightly shortened stock axle so that we can run where we want without the axle length based problems (though this might create new short axle length type problems unless we control our droop travel).
Scott, who had serious concern about his axles.....till he developed more serious concerns about his rod bearings and valves......it's always something.....
Hey guys, thanks for the help! Is it possible (would it make a difference?) to take the boot off the axle and pump it with fresh grease...say twice a year? One of my axles is shot, looks like one of the bearings got hung up so when we took off the boot and the grease started pouring out like water, my crew chief said..."Yep, that's your problem....the grease is getting way to hot".
So, Honda (OEM) Axles are the way to go...where is the best (cheapest) place to find them???
So, Honda (OEM) Axles are the way to go...where is the best (cheapest) place to find them???
im surprised no one has mentioned Raxles yet. Marty is a fun guy to talk to and he back his customer support. http://www.raxles.com he also knows his hybrids, although i've heard on occasion he has been wrong as to what works with certain swaps.
i've heard some bad things lately about getting axles from kragens and autozone type places. one as bad as the snap ring getting wedged in the diff and having to take the whole tranny apart to save it.
i've heard some bad things lately about getting axles from kragens and autozone type places. one as bad as the snap ring getting wedged in the diff and having to take the whole tranny apart to save it.
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I purchased an axle from my uncle's autoparts store, installed it, and it was bad right out of the box. Took it back and got a replacement, but it still involved too much work. Next time OEM Honda for me. Sorry Unc'
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