I'm not a pro n been running into 1 problem.
body work
feather edge
primer
guide coat
block sand (if there low spot, refix it, prime n block sanded)
ran my hand through were body work used to be. it perfect/smooth... (PRIMER)
after base/clear
in certain angle i can see there used to be body work (it kinda look like a ding or dent. cant really say)

i dont think it primer shrink becuz when it shrink it look dry?
do i need sealer? i remember doing couple car with my buddy n we didnt use sealer (there body work).... plz help

 

Probably should have block-sanded more thoroughly with a finer grit...

 

Here's a tip. After you have blocked your primer, take some wax and grease remover and spray down your panel leaving it wet so you can look at the panel from various angles. It will help give you and idea of what the panel will look like when cleared.

 

ty for the 2 tip

 

spraying wax and grease remover on sanded body filler is also a way to check your bodywork for straight body lines and edges of paint. helps out when you don't want to prime and block out more then once. then blow dry with compressed air until all solvent is evaporated.

 

x2 on compressed air. W&G remover can cause serious problems if painted over before fully evaporated. I try to avoid getting any liquids on my fillers because they are generally a bit porous.

 

becarefull spraying wax and grease remover on cheaper primer, it will make it bubble up and peal off. anyone that doesn't believe me I can post a video of how quick this takes place..

 

Are you talking about lacquer primer? If so, I've seen this happen as well. But almost all 2k urethane primers should be able to handle it, W&G remover has very mild solvents in it.

 

ty for the tip

ty for the warning

also thank for the warning. can u post up the video? just wanna see for the heck of it

i guess i'll use 2k primer

 

Dings/dents are detected by a guide coat. I would try another dry guide coat, make sure the color contrasts the primer quite vividly (I usually use buff or gray primer with a black powder guidecoat.

 

yeah i use white primer with black guide coat. i think it becuz my primer...

 

What sort of primer did you use?

 

no idea, got it from a buddy... wat kind of primer do guy recommend? do primer/sealer any good? or should i do primer than sealer after?

 

Was it a 2k primer? And by that I mean, did you need to mix it with a hardener/activator?

2k surfacer primer is used to fill minor imperfections. It generally does not need a sealer. How much are you looking to spend? A gallon, with hardener, of lower end stuff would run like 70 dollars. PPG, you're looking at ALOT more.

 

also u mite want to note is plastic body filler expands when it gets hot when sanding it and when u do ur work it may feel level but a few mins later itl be low. also when fether edge u wanna go down to the metal and fether that out to the remaning surface to avoid pancakes as i call them this way u cant tell it was ever repaired and i like to shoot my 2k filler primer over 220 i like to lay down a thick coat others may say diff then i like to hand wetsand with a paint stick wraped in 600 then when its smothe then do the same to rest of repair areas i like my **** like a sheet of glass when its done

 

So you never really block the primer, just the substrate? 600 is enough to remove texture, but not to cut. I usually sand level, primer, block with 180, then move up through grits to 400-600 wet then shoot base or sealer.

 

i like that one!

 

mix with acetone

a gallon with hardener for around 100

 

You never mentioned using any type of spot glaze. Just a body filler. I always use it on any body work I perform. It helps a lot.

 

If you mixed with acetone, it's either an enamel or lacquer primer. These can (and do) shrink. Shrinkage could cause the problem you describe.

Use a real primer (urethane).

And yeah, USC dolphin glaze is some good stuff. Most body glazes work well, just don't use the oxide red 1-part stuff because it is basically a thickened lacquer mix and will shrink or lift.

 

nice info. ty. n i use evercoat metal glaze... can i use any bondo or which brand

 

I like the rage lines of body fillers but the end results are all the same if you know what you're doing, just get used to whatever filler you use consistently.

As for glazes, like I said, dolphin UPC is good but there are other kinds out there that are also good. Basically anything that is 2 parts will do fine.