Im assuming this isnt normal???
the car probably wasnt painted ina booth. everyone is getting way to in detail about it. you got dust and **** in your paint and they prolly burned through the basecoat when wet sanding and buffing. in the end i wouldnt pay them what you still owe or i would make them fix it
it was done in a booth and it was a cross draft booth. I am in the process of working with them to get it resprayed or else I will be going elsewhere with the remainder balance in my hand to get it resprayed.
brought this **** back from the dead because I think my car is developing cancer
noticed this the other day, I think it becasue when the fenders were rolled, something wasnt done correctly
noticed this the other day, I think it becasue when the fenders were rolled, something wasnt done correctly
um you dont want to know....
the more i look at that spot the more it doesnt really look like rust, but there is nothing else it could really be
the more i look at that spot the more it doesnt really look like rust, but there is nothing else it could really be
body work was done there and I have never had a rust issue in the 9 yrs that Ive had the car. The fenders were rolled, but that doesnt look like bondo to me.
i think it's about time you wetsand the car... It may not come out perfect, but there are minor imperfections in every car that comes out of a booth and colorsanding and polishing some spots can take the nibs out of the paint. Regardless though, I think you should have the whole car resprayed because it really does look like a single stage paint from the pictures you've hosted. And yes, i AM curious to see how much you paid for this. If you dropped $3k or more on this paint, I'd be hounding their *** everyday to get this resolved.
it was way more than 3g. I was a full color change, body work, jams, etc. It is getting resprayed or else Im taking them to court.
How can you tell if its a 1 stg or multiple stages?
How can you tell if its a 1 stg or multiple stages?
Last edited by mikeycivic; Sep 29, 2009 at 03:13 PM.
1 stage is the BS that maaco sprays on the cheap packages. paint/clear mixed. easy to use, but often lacks any depth and is riddled with orange peel, and that's what your car looks like in the pictures (though they may be deceiving). 2 stage is laying down the base then clear, three stage would be a candy (base, tinted clear, clear) or a heavy pearl/mica, seen on cars like lamborghinis, etc.
i paid around $3300 for paint/bodywork on my last car, and it was flawless. I wouldn't let it leave until it was. The only hiccup we ran into was they forgot to shave my LP holes on my front bumper, but they took care of it and I had my car two days later. Not a single inch of orange peel or anything ANYwhere on the car.
i paid around $3300 for paint/bodywork on my last car, and it was flawless. I wouldn't let it leave until it was. The only hiccup we ran into was they forgot to shave my LP holes on my front bumper, but they took care of it and I had my car two days later. Not a single inch of orange peel or anything ANYwhere on the car.
wow that price hurts me but I think west coast prices are less for paint. I got a few quotes and all were about the same so I dont think I got ripped off price wise I just didnt get what I paid for, YET. Mine is HOK Majik Blue Pearl
Sounds like they didnt use a tack clothe or prep solvent before they sprayed if its under the paint
Same if its under the clear.
If its in the clear and wetsanding it doesnt remove little specs like that, they didnt use enough clear.
Same if its under the clear.
If its in the clear and wetsanding it doesnt remove little specs like that, they didnt use enough clear.
well what would cause that bubble 1.5 yrs later? I dont think its rust but thats the only thing logical. The car doesnt get driven in the rain and its in a weird spot.
well here is a question to anyone that owns a body shop, if I was to take the shop to court to get my money back so I can take it to a place that knows wtf their doing, would that be hard to do and win?
I don't work at a bodyshop, but I'm somewhat familiar with how it works... You need paperwork stating their work on your car, plus whether or not they have a warranty against such and such, etc, (i.e. rust.), and if you're within that time period, you're golden for them to refund you the repair amount or to fix the damage.
well i dont know if I have exactly that but I do have a lot of other stuff. Instead of taking it back to a shop that obviously does shitty work, Im thinking about gettin my money back and just taking it somewhere else. This thing should no be rusting if it was done correctly and it obviously wasnt.

The base looks textured. Paint was not atomized correctly. Looks like dry spray on the base. You should take it back. You can't even see the metallics. If sprayed correctly, the metallics would have laid in the correct orientation and you would be able to see it. Over 3k for these results is crazy. I did this Supra for a friend for 1800 (including PPG paint) complete in and out and shaved and molded and cut and buffed. Third brake light, window washer and wiper, side markers, and spoiler holes all welded shut. The car is one piece with the exception of the front.



