Opinions are welcomed!!!

Just trying to share the info!!!

Well I got a 97 integra from the previous owner. VERY GOOD PRICE!!
The down side is... The whole car has been painted by rattle can
-"Gloss White"

I want to paint the car professionally but I would REALLY like to know what would be the best solution on removing this hidious paint job...

It would save me alot of $$$ if I removed it myself rather than having the paint shop doing it costing more $$$ than expected.

The spray layer is pretty solid. Honestly I rather have the car primered than this...

Please share the knowledge!!!

 

chemical strip the entire car, tape inside the edges on fenders and doors and whatnot, and chemically strip the whole damn thing, others may do different, but i like doing the job correctly

 

and for the naysayers, he needs to get the paint completely off, he can either...

1. DA all the paint off with 80, then feather with 180, 320, THEN etch the car, THEN high build the car because any additional scratches WILL swell through if you try to paint over any sanding scratches, then block the entire car, seal and spray it

2. Chemically strip the car, take the paint off the edges of the panels, etch the car, seal and spray unless of course he wants to do some bodywork along the way

What just came to mind is, maybe if you sand off enough of the spray paint, and get to the old layers of paint and everything feathers out nicely, then you could probably just spray over that, but if not, you gotta get to bare metal

 

Chemically strip? lol with what? Aircraft remover?!

 

yep, they sell it in jugs, thats what i used to have to do with the honda paint recall at the dealership

 

sand with 16 grit. call it a day

 

lol

 

16 grit seriously? haha

 

i was gona say sand with 80 grit on a DA but whatever works, i tend to be a bit cautious with chemical stripper, you dont want to remove the galvonic coating on the metal body panels, better to sand through the spray paint and then use a good primer.

 

come again?

 

galvacoat, galvanizing, whatever you want to call it, its the stuff that the factory sprays on the bare metal to prevent rusting. I believe its made of a zinc material. Its the very first layer of any factory paint job and it goes on the whole car.

 

the e-coat? if it did get removed its not an issue, a good etch primer such as vari-prime by dupont will do the trick of preventing rust

 

to each his own...i would never use a chemical stripper on my car. i would DA the car with 80 up to 220. then hit with a heavy build primer then 320 it again seal it base it.

 

^^^^ yep thats what you do dont aircraft remover lol thats not smart to put that all over your car at all.Use a DA just keep going up in the grit so you dont have swirls for the DA.

 

no real reason to seal it after the high build primer

 

Lol ok do what that guy did go from 80-220 and kick yourself in the *** when you have sanding swells, ever sanded paint all the way down to bare metal? its not fun, chemical stripping is FAR easier and quicker IF you mask it up properly and do a good job. With over 5 years of shop time and 2 years of schooling for auto body, forgive me for not taking your "advice" concerning what is "smart" for me to put all over a car.

Again as I mentioned before, I have chemical stripped plenty of large areas on cars due to a recall in Honda paint, even if a hood on a car is very badly rock chipped or peeled, you think I DA that to bare metal? L-O-EFFIN-L, tape the edges off so you don't strip the underside of the panel, plastic off the rest of the area so you don't strip anything you don't want to, and do work.

People need to stop being scared of chemical stripper, but hey until then, DA away, waste tons of money on sandpaper, time on sanding, more money on highbuilding till EVERY scratch is gone and sanding that out, and THEN getting to painting your car, while keeping your fingers crossed that no scratches resurface, cause if they do, back to bodywork for you.

 

have you ever even used a DA before? the right grit and the right speed can take an entire quarter panel down to metal in 5 minutes

 

Im guessing your not going for a perfect flawless show like finish, I cant see why you would chemically strip the car. I wouldnt even bother sanding it down to bare metal, I dont see the point to take it to bare metal. I have helped at a friends shop and they normally would give a good sanding to remove most of the paint or clear. the finish comes out great as long as its smooth and theres a good surface for new paint to stick too.

 

I guess you didnt read everything I wrote, you know if you use a DA too fast you run the risk of warping the metal correct? So running it at max RPM with 80 grit probably isnt the best idea. Like I said before, I'll even make sure my statement stands out, just so you don't miss it again.

I have chemical stripped several cars/pieces of cars and the end result has been as good/if not better than if I wasted all that extra time and material using a DA.

And UnleashedEJ1, the problem here is that the OP's car was rattle canned, which rejects any form of BC/CC system. Of course I explained all the possibilities in the threads third post but some of these people just seem to know everything

 

Yeah, I dont know much about the topic and Im sure the methods used at my friends shop are not the greatest. I will use your info in the future if I ever come across a rattle can job that needs redone.

 

always will seal...i get it for cheap just 1 more step so nothing goes wrong.


personally i only use air craft stripper on my VCs then i can soak it in water so i know the **** is off. If it isnt your paint is ****ed.

you dont need to take it to bare metal. he just needs to take off the rattle can. so he could go down to the primer coat. unless the person who rattled it took it to bare metal and painted it. which i dout they did/

 

there are a lot of random opinions on this forum without much knowledge or experience to back them up. for those of you giving advice... are you an industry professional or have you just seen it on TV?

Cain Marko - i see you are an industry professional. see why i stopped regularly visiting Honda-Tech and other forums? everyone thinks they're a pro just because they heard someone describe something once.

spawne32 - primer has nothing to do with paint work. it's the last step in body work. you prime your filler spots, or other rough or scratched areas, and then you block it with 320 dry or you can wetsand with 400 and above. since i use water based paint (even thinner and less 'fill' than solvent), i then DA the blocked primer with 400, then jump to 800 to be sure the 320 scratches are gone. sealer is the first step in paint work. you always use sealer over any primed or other uneven color areas. this is especially important with thin basecoats like DuPont solvent. DuPont has their VeriShade system that is required for proper color match. if you use to light or dark of a sealer with any kind of basecoat you risk screwing up the color.

also, stripping a panel down to bare metal by either chemical or mechanical means will not damage the metal in any way. the e-coat that's applied at the factory can easily be duplicated. bare metal always gets etch primed before any topcoat, including regular 2k high build primer. you can take it one step further if you strip the entire car by using an epoxy primer surfacer. it takes care of the etch and the high build all in one.

and for the record... NO you absolutely cannot mechanically strip and entire quarter in 5 minutes with any grit paper at any speed.

 

Finally someone with some sense up in here, my prayers have been answered

 

I'm curious, whats the warranty like on your paint work? Cus im actually looking for a place to take my car to get it redone, since the guy at pacifico did such a HORRIBLE job.

 

haha yeah, it's not often i've found someone on any forum who actually does things the correct way. the internet is flooded with people who think they know how to paint or do body work just because they went to a tech school for a year or two in high school. the only thing most tech schools do is spread misinformation and teach a bunch of kids the wrong way to do everything. actual high end shop experience is rare it seems.

we offer a limited lifetime warranty on every piece of paint work that we ship out. basically, your paint job is warrantied against defects in the material and poor workmanship as long as you own your vehicle. with that said, i'll simplify it even more. if your **** ends up peeling in a year or two or sand scratches come back or one day you wake up and all of your paint is on your driveway and your car is rusting away before your eyes... we'll fix it with very little questions asked.

if you bring the car back to us and claim that we did something wrong but we can see the spots where bird **** laid on it for weeks and you used a Brillo pad to try to get it off, we'll politely tell you to GTFO. hahaha

we're all pretty chill guys and Paul, the owner, will always take care of you. he's a true 'give and get respect' guy. if you're cool with him you'll get the same in return. if there's something wrong with your stuff and we're responsible, he'll go out of his way to make it right.

stop in or call any time. you can also email us or just PM me on here.