well im sick of my D15, gas mileage great but the only thing im faster than is an 18 wheeler.

Im trying to put together a decent swap here at low cost. Ive been researching..and researching..and researching. Im possibly deciding on a B20Z swap with some bolt-ons like intake manifold, header, new exhaust, clutch, better cams (and i assume all B-series parts fit the same) ..but im not sure on the results i will get from this. I WANT to be able to run low 14's..yes yes i know 1/4 times are all dependant on driver ability, but thats my ball park figure im going for. Id like to keep this swap costing up to $3000...any suggestions? is the b20 good for me, or should i look into another b-series? BTW i have a 94 civic coupe..and im not wanting to boost.


and the only answers that usually come up to these questions are "search"..this is a personal question so help a brother out!

 

i can care less about the search bullshit... anyhow... you want a b20z with b seriers parts?? and your goal is 14's and 3G's... well a b16 will run about 2g's and less if you know someone...and a thousand bucks of bolt ons on a b16 will def get u in the low 14's... and a b18c(i forget 1, or 5) wat ever GSR... stock will run u 2500g's do it ur self install... u should run 14.5. i mean puttin b seriers parts in a b20 will run .... b20 how ever much that is.. plust more b seriers parts plust installation and ls/vtec tuned RIGHT are good but still not reliable... my opinion is b16 or b18 gsr... a simple clutch and lsd upgrade will let u grab more power from the crank... pretty big topic... your choice... but if you don't want to boost and want to run respectable vette's.... your going to need a 8 thousand dollar engine all motor... how ever.. u take a b16 or a b20 (i think LS motor) and boost it...run about 5g's and you'll b in the 13's...possibly 12's....and boost will still let you get good gas miles and respectable horsepower... good luck with your decision

 

Turbo = cheaper than b-series.

Oh sorry, I didnt read your post fully, I just went back and read it. So what you want is to spend a whole ton of money to get a little bit more horse power and still have absolutely no torque? Cool.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jlacoy82 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Turbo = cheaper than b-series.

Oh sorry, I didnt read your post fully, I just went back and read it. So what you want is to spend a whole ton of money to get a little bit more horse power and still have absolutely no torque? Cool.</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2

D Turbo Ninja Yo!!

 

i realize this topic is broad im just trying to figure out if im heading in the right direction. For me i live in ontario and the cost of a B16 & B20 swap are about the same (2000 bucks). I'm leaning over to the B20 side because of the higher torque and they run on regular gas. Im staying away from LS/VTEC and CRVTEC because they aren't reliable at all. The thought has crossed my mind on doing a self install, i do have a very good knowledge of engines and access to enough tools..but no nothing about the electrical aspect to it.. i don't know anyone else who has done a DIY install either. Anyone else with suggestions? B20Z yay, or nay

 

so jlacoy82, a homemade turbo is cheaper yes..but reliability wise, wont it f**k me over nicely down the road.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSRconvert &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im staying away from LS/VTEC and CRVTEC because they aren't reliable at all. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Just where did you get that they aren't reliable? Build it right, and it will last.

B20 with stock rods (polished beams, ARP bolts) PR3 VTEC head with VTEC Killer cams.

10,100 rpm limit, with 9500 rpm shifts. Dynoed 224whp, and I've barely started tuning it. This setup belongs to user Rusty Shackleferd if you have questions.

Video Here: http://www.we-todd-did-racing....DE%3D

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSRconvert &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so jlacoy82, a homemade turbo is cheaper yes..but reliability wise, wont it f**k me over nicely down the road.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Again, build it right and it will be reliable. I have over 11,000 miles on my turbo D15B, and I have no maintenance worries.

 

224 whp ...thats amazing! i know build it right build it right..i'm just stuck on the fact that if it didnt come with vtec..its not meant for vtec.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSRconvert &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">224 whp ...thats amazing! i know build it right build it right..i'm just stuck on the fact that if it didnt come with vtec..its not meant for vtec.</TD></TR></TABLE>

224whp is just the start. The video I linked doesn't do it justice. We will have dyno vids and graphs when the final tune is done.

I actually recommend the B20 bottom end with a LS head.

 

how come LS head? better flowing? or higher compression ratio?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSRconvert &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well im sick of my D15, gas mileage great but the only thing im faster than is an 18 wheeler.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I just felt like pointing out that you aren't in fact faster than one of those diesels, but they usually do have to go slower speeds I had a friend who pissed a guy off who didn't have his trailer off in town, he was eaaaasily able to push it and keep up with my friends Yukon Denali.

The point of this post: Don't let your friends cut off truckers in town.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Maness &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I just felt like pointing out that you aren't in fact faster than one of those diesels, but they usually do have to go slower speeds I had a friend who pissed a guy off who didn't have his trailer off in town, he was eaaaasily able to push it and keep up with my friends Yukon Denali.

The point of this post: Don't let your friends cut off truckers in town. </TD></TR></TABLE>

hahaha thats great !

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jim Truett &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just where did you get that they aren't reliable? Build it right, and it will last.

B20 with stock rods (polished beams, ARP bolts) PR3 VTEC head with VTEC Killer cams.

10,100 rpm limit, with 9500 rpm shifts. Dynoed 224whp, and I've barely started tuning it. This setup belongs to user Rusty Shackleferd if you have questions.

Video Here: http://www.we-todd-did-racing....DE%3D </TD></TR></TABLE>

hell yeah that's friggin bad ***!!

your avatar is great too

i dunno though 10100 rpm is kinda pushing it though. i assume you've seen this one: http://www.theoldone.com/articles/badtothebone ... i think 10000+ rpm is what killed it.

anyway to the original poster, just keep your eye out in the classifieds. you could find a b18 / b20 changeover for less than 3k pretty easy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Internet Tough Guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i dunno though 10100 rpm is kinda pushing it though. </TD></TR></TABLE>

10,100 is the limiter. The peak in the datalogger on the last dyno run was 9621. Scott shifts it around 9500 or so. I just wanted to leave him a few rpm extra before the fuel cut.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSRconvert &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how come LS head? better flowing? or higher compression ratio?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Higher compression ratio and more aftermarket support.

 

B20 with a S1 transmission off a b16 and you will be laughing.

 

Boost The D or Boosted LS

 

Jim Truett, I'm gonna guess that the CRX with that built LS is running an open header/megaphone?

 

hurmm intresting. i would get a b16a2. good motor then do a mini me swap with a B16b head. then add bolt-ons. if your going for the long run with the B20z. "are you going to go a b20-vtec?" then do that, then do all yo other bolt-ons.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jlacoy82 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Jim Truett, I'm gonna guess that the CRX with that built LS is running an open header/megaphone? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Open header. It's a 4-1, and the car is setup for the track only.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by droped_eg6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hurmm intresting. i would get a b16a2. good motor then do a mini me swap with a B16b head. then add bolt-ons. if your going for the long run with the B20z. "are you going to go a b20-vtec?" then do that, then do all yo other bolt-ons. </TD></TR></TABLE>

im confused with your post here. "mini-me" is the nickname used when putting a D16Z6 HEAD on a D15 bottom end..results are pointless (since you could swap a whole D16 for about $100 more). But are you suggesting i buy a b16, then later on sell the block and mate the head with a b20? If so, yes it would work, but would nicely shatter the $3000 budget.

I'm deciding on the B20Z W/GSR tranny..50% chance ill vtec it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSRconvert &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm deciding on the B20Z W/GSR tranny..50% chance ill vtec it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats what I'm doing. And what are you thinking, it won't be fast without m4d vt4k y0 :-P

 

thats what im doing right now...b20vtec. im going to run b16 tranny though. oh well good luck with your decision.

b16...has no torque at all

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AbitAvenger &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thats what I'm doing. And what are you thinking, it won't be fast without m4d vt4k y0 :-P</TD></TR></TABLE>


fast with out what?!!?? B20Z's have a nice pull to them, and the run on regular gas for pete's sake!

and B16's...thats over and done with in this town.

 

D series turbo&gt;any b series swap, cheaper and should be faster. custom turbo kit aroudn 1500$, motor 500$, pistons for like 350$, rods for say 250, and some other bs then you got yourself a fast car. should be in the 13's