I start the car and it idles fine. If i rev it up to 2000rpm and hold it there it revs down to 1000rpm and back up to 2000rpm. I just revs up and down with the throttle in one position. So whats the problem! Its a 92 civic dx hatchback

 

what ECU you running?

 

I bought the car from somebody and it already had an h22a in it, which was blown. I just got my motor from hmotorsonline.com and i used the old harness that was already in the civic. And it is the same 92-95 obd1 engine. It seems to be something with the vacuum on the intake manifold, thats what my dad thinks.

 

We thought it was the EGR Valve, but we changed it and it does the same thing. It doesnt rev up and down with the EGR Valve disconnected, and seems to run okay. So what do I check now!

 

somebody help? It has the p13 ecu.

 

sounds ike you got a vacuum leak,.

 

double check all ur vaccuum lines.

the egr wont cause that. i completely removed my whole egr system and i have no complaints.

 

yeah were trying to find out were it could be? This is the first time I've worked with a vtec. My other car is a 1985 Honda Accord, lol! So, I don't know a whole about honda's. But I've read up on them quite a bit!

 

throwing any codes?

 

its a vacuum line probobly man......check and see what type of ecu u are using also that helps.....but it is most likely a vacuum line u got wrong

 

Yeap it was a vacuum leak! But I got another question, is the revlimiter supposed to kick in at 6750? Redline is at 7200! Is there something else wrong or is that how it is stock?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Preludes’R’Us &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> is the revlimiter supposed to kick in at 6750? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope, it should be higher than that. was the engine at operating temp?

 

what other codes you throwing? you have the infamous 6800 cut off

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what other codes you throwing? you have the infamous 6800 cut off</TD></TR></TABLE>6800 cut off........ isnt that the auto p13 redline?

 

Yeah the engine is at operating temp, but the check engine light is on. There is something going on with my egr valve. I heard that it is in safe mode or something. If i disconnect the egr valve it runs fine except for the 6800 redline! But when the egr valve is connected the check engine light turns off. The problem is what I stated above when it is connected. Oh yeah, my cars a manual.

 

make a block off plate for the egr port on the intake manifold. Click the plug back on to the egr valve and hide it behind the motor. Then the ECU still sees the valve, opens and closes it, but the port is blocked off so it runs better and no CEL. I did this until i got a socketed p28

 

yeah, I'll give that a try!

 

I did the EGR Valve thing and it worked for about 20 minutes. Then the car started acting wierd as hell. It wouldn't go anywhere when I stepped on the gas, but it still idled fine. Then I put the EGR Valve back on, unplugged it and it ran fine again, but the gay *** light is on! Grrrrrr.......


Modified by Preludes'R'Us at 7:13 PM 6/16/2005


Modified by Preludes'R'Us at 2:15 PM 6/19/2005

 

frig.... sorry guy, it worked for me...

 

so the light is on, is it only showing code 12 when you check it?

 

b16b, I'm not mad at you, lol. I'm just getting frusterated with the car. The car was throwing these codes 7, 23, and 43. 7 is the idle adjust, 43 is fuel system, and I can't remeber what 23 is. But I reset the cumputer now it is just throwing the egr code

 

The check engine light goes off when I plug in the EGR valve. My vacuum pump isn't connected! How do you connect that on the h22 civic? I don't have any stray plugs anywhere?

 

At this point, I might just take it to a professional. I'm sick of messing with it. Besides I still need to get it tuned anyways.

 

I had the same issue with my Accord. It would rev to 2k and back down to 1K when I gave it throttle it would almost cut off. End result was TPS and Map sensor(I think???) were backwards and once switched it was fine. Hope that helps

Good luck

 

I had all that crap u mentioned. What I ended up doing was going to the junk yard and getting the whole egr unit. All the vaccum lines, etc. When you look under an accord hood, there should be a whole diagram on it. Just match the diagram with whats in the hood and take it all. I paid 20 dollars for all my crap. I don't get no codes either. It worked for me.