My H22 swap into EF using Hasport mounts
Yeah, I think with the mods I have mid to high 12's isn't unreasonable. Though I'm of course hoping for better, but will not be disapointed by breaking into the 12's.
I posted probably my last pics for the thread on the first page of how everything has come together.
I posted probably my last pics for the thread on the first page of how everything has come together.
Keep the temps down man. Especially right now, I can't seem to get my radiator fan working yet (still figuring it out) so any heat I can keep off my radiator the better.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2lude4u »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Keep the temps down man. Especially right now, I can't seem to get my radiator fan working yet (still figuring it out) so any heat I can keep off my radiator the better.</TD></TR></TABLE>
just keep in mind it will corrode the header and weaken the welds.
just keep in mind it will corrode the header and weaken the welds.
I haven't heard of that. It will corrode a stainless header? Guess I'll need to do a little research. I may look into a coating (unless that screws things up) if wraps do damage things.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2lude4u »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I haven't heard of that. It will corrode a stainless header? Guess I'll need to do a little research. I may look into a coating (unless that screws things up) if wraps do damage things.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep, the wrap does keep the heat "in" however that will decrease the life of the header. There has been several discussion's on HT about this including opinions from the header manufactures.
I would recommend running a 12" pusher fan in front of the radiator to keep it cool.
yep, the wrap does keep the heat "in" however that will decrease the life of the header. There has been several discussion's on HT about this including opinions from the header manufactures.
I would recommend running a 12" pusher fan in front of the radiator to keep it cool.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2lude4u »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I haven't heard of that. </TD></TR></TABLE>
it's true.
it's true.
In all my previous searches before buying the wrap I had looked up 'Thermotec' & came up with nothing. After looking up 'Heat Wrap' I found the various threads & have since removed it.
I put my first dent in the bottom of the header today though
I put my first dent in the bottom of the header today though
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2lude4u »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I put my first dent in the bottom of the header today though
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this is one of reasons why I prefer to space the hood or make a cowl and keep the motor "up" in the engine bay. I smashed my header before I even started the car for the first time when the header got stuck on my driveway
I put my first dent in the bottom of the header today though
</TD></TR></TABLE>this is one of reasons why I prefer to space the hood or make a cowl and keep the motor "up" in the engine bay. I smashed my header before I even started the car for the first time when the header got stuck on my driveway
Im Still waiting for Hasport to return my call. KeithG said he was working on getting a new rear mount that wouls allow the engine to be placed lower in the engine bay or work out a deal for us on custom Fiberglass hoods that he had made for a crx a few years back. I was told they would call me back within 2 days it has been a week, I will call them again on monday and see if they are planning to do anything.
I don't think the development of a different rear mount got very far, though it's possible that they might offer it as an option in the future.
Hasport is helping Freeltec & myself acquire some hoods at a fair rate. I'll be getting a Fiberimages hood, & Freeltec is getting Fiberglass hood that Hasport has had made specifically for the EF K-series swap, but it will also clear the H series swap.
Hasport is helping Freeltec & myself acquire some hoods at a fair rate. I'll be getting a Fiberimages hood, & Freeltec is getting Fiberglass hood that Hasport has had made specifically for the EF K-series swap, but it will also clear the H series swap.
all right 2point2 asked me to put my questions here. i have a 90 crx dx and i'm planning on putting the h22a with hasport mounts. i needed some info on what shift linkage,axles, also stuff for the tune up like the gaskets,timebelt headers. also is there any diffrence between the jdm or usdm motors. as much info will be helpful
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that engine is way to heavy for a CRX!
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Yeah, that's true. The worst engine and car combination ever.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Yeah, that's true. The worst engine and car combination ever.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racerose »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">all right 2point2 asked me to put my questions here. i have a 90 crx dx and i'm planning on putting the h22a with hasport mounts. i needed some info on what shift linkage,axles, also stuff for the tune up like the gaskets,timebelt headers. also is there any diffrence between the jdm or usdm motors. as much info will be helpful</TD></TR></TABLE>
Read the Hasports instructions, on their website, to figure out the needs for the swap. Then check out the FAQ's in the Prelude section for engine info.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racerose »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also i have a fluidyne half radiator would that be enough to keep the h22 cool</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, I've been using a Griffin Half radiator for years with H22's.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racerose »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> what kind of suspension would i need to get</TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't know yet, since I'm still on stock springs but most decent EF suspensions with stiffer springs will be of benefit.
Read the Hasports instructions, on their website, to figure out the needs for the swap. Then check out the FAQ's in the Prelude section for engine info.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racerose »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also i have a fluidyne half radiator would that be enough to keep the h22 cool</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, I've been using a Griffin Half radiator for years with H22's.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racerose »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> what kind of suspension would i need to get</TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't know yet, since I'm still on stock springs but most decent EF suspensions with stiffer springs will be of benefit.
So a new problem surfaced with my hasport kit.
The bolt hasport provides for the attaching the alternator slider to the lower alternator bracket broke. We thought it was a grade 8 bolt just by assumption, but after extraction (which involved dropping the crossmember and if I hadn't spent an hour forcing a new belt in between the crank pulley and chassis, also dropping the engine to get the new belt on) we determined that the bolt was more likely a grade 5 or so.
For others running this kit, replace the bolt provided with a grade 8 bolt, preferably one with a shank and not threads in the area that the slider rides.
Thanks hasport for wasting 4 hours of mine and my shops time fixing this poorly spec'ed fastener. Due to the vibration experienced by the alternator and solid mounts, this is a problem that will happen to you other guys.
The bolt hasport provides for the attaching the alternator slider to the lower alternator bracket broke. We thought it was a grade 8 bolt just by assumption, but after extraction (which involved dropping the crossmember and if I hadn't spent an hour forcing a new belt in between the crank pulley and chassis, also dropping the engine to get the new belt on) we determined that the bolt was more likely a grade 5 or so.
For others running this kit, replace the bolt provided with a grade 8 bolt, preferably one with a shank and not threads in the area that the slider rides.
Thanks hasport for wasting 4 hours of mine and my shops time fixing this poorly spec'ed fastener. Due to the vibration experienced by the alternator and solid mounts, this is a problem that will happen to you other guys.



