LS vtec block concern
i'm planning to do LS vtec instead of FI...after many many debates, i realize all-motor is probably better for my everyday commute to school/work/home.
Here is my question. Anyone know what compression will an ITR head yield?
Is it necessary to upgrade the block internals?
I know most of you here on the board all suggest getting better pistons/ rods, resleeve, rod bolt...etc etc.
BUT my question is, ive talked to this close buddy of mine and he said its okay to leave the LS short block ****STOCK**** This guy knows everything about ls/vtec too...he has one in his integra (CRV/vtec stock bottom end) He backs his statement up from his personal experience with his car and also from a very well known local guy here in MD by the name of "Fred Ellis" I too believe he has a CRV/vtec. I think He raced LIP aka Jeff here at the track.
SO now i'm confuse....i don't need to go all out full race motor like Fred, i just want something reliable in the long run. anyone? thanks
marvin
Here is my question. Anyone know what compression will an ITR head yield?
Is it necessary to upgrade the block internals?
I know most of you here on the board all suggest getting better pistons/ rods, resleeve, rod bolt...etc etc.
BUT my question is, ive talked to this close buddy of mine and he said its okay to leave the LS short block ****STOCK**** This guy knows everything about ls/vtec too...he has one in his integra (CRV/vtec stock bottom end) He backs his statement up from his personal experience with his car and also from a very well known local guy here in MD by the name of "Fred Ellis" I too believe he has a CRV/vtec. I think He raced LIP aka Jeff here at the track.
SO now i'm confuse....i don't need to go all out full race motor like Fred, i just want something reliable in the long run. anyone? thanks
marvin
the thing is with that swap you are going to be reving to at least 8200 rpm (if you like to drive fast) and the stock LS block is only good to a maximum of 7200-7500 rpm. if your concern is reliability you should at least change the rod bolts to ARP or some other aftermarket company. the pressure on the rod bolts goes up incrementally with rpm so although 1000 rpm may not seem like much it causes much more strain on these bolts.
the thing is with that swap you are going to be reving to at least 8200 rpm (if you like to drive fast) and the stock LS block is only good to a maximum of 7200-7500 rpm. if your concern is reliability you should at least change the rod bolts to ARP or some other aftermarket company. the pressure on the rod bolts goes up exponentially with rpm so although 1000 rpm may not seem like much it causes much more strain on these bolts.
whatever you do don't buy the arp bolts they suck **** i used them and they were'nt torquing all the way down like they should there sorry quality made me buy another head gasket(this is my personal exprience w/ them)
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whatever you do don't buy the arp bolts they suck **** i used them and they were'nt torquing all the way down like they should there sorry quality made me buy another head gasket(this is my personal exprience w/ them)
Anyone else had problems with arp rod bolts?
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