K20A swap
First off, I did search, both manually thru every thread title and using the big red search button.
I was wondering if there are any disadvantages (aside from cost) to doing a K20A/EG? It looks like a tricky swap, everything is backwards. I would have a shop do the swap, so is there anything too keep in mind after? ie, do axels or shifters have issues? is it too heavy in the front end for autocross? is it hard to find headers or intakes that fit? yadda yadda yadda. I have seen pics of a couple and it looks snug.
I was wondering if there are any disadvantages (aside from cost) to doing a K20A/EG? It looks like a tricky swap, everything is backwards. I would have a shop do the swap, so is there anything too keep in mind after? ie, do axels or shifters have issues? is it too heavy in the front end for autocross? is it hard to find headers or intakes that fit? yadda yadda yadda. I have seen pics of a couple and it looks snug.
Search user Fuster_Cluck and find his build topic - it's pretty much THE most informative K20/Eg swap topic I've ever seen, complete with tons of pics, prices, etc.
Originally Posted by wondersparrow
First off, I did search, both manually thru every thread title and using the big red search button.
I was wondering if there are any disadvantages (aside from cost) to doing a K20A/EG? It looks like a tricky swap, everything is backwards. I would have a shop do the swap, so is there anything too keep in mind after? ie, do axels or shifters have issues? is it too heavy in the front end for autocross? is it hard to find headers or intakes that fit? yadda yadda yadda. I have seen pics of a couple and it looks snug.
I was wondering if there are any disadvantages (aside from cost) to doing a K20A/EG? It looks like a tricky swap, everything is backwards. I would have a shop do the swap, so is there anything too keep in mind after? ie, do axels or shifters have issues? is it too heavy in the front end for autocross? is it hard to find headers or intakes that fit? yadda yadda yadda. I have seen pics of a couple and it looks snug.
Don't let the flipped motor trip you out - you'll get use to it
Disadvantages -
- cost
- unable to pass smog (if that matters to you)
- Oil pan to ground clearance (depending on how low you like to ride)
Advantages
- I believe you save about 15lbs overall weight than a B-series engine and about 25-30lbs than a H-series
- TORQUE ON TAP
- Around 225 whp with simple i/h/exh/kpro upgrades, and more is to be had with other upgrades.
- TORQUE ON TAP
- you get 'intelligent' VTAAAK y0!!!
- 6-speed transmission - yeah!
- no more worries about a failing distributor and/or internal dizzy components
- TORQUE ON TAP SON.
You're better off NOW doing a K swap versus 4 years ago. Almost everything is available for a K swap now than there was in '04. Its the small things like brackets and some fuel delivery parts that need customization to a degree.
Hasport or Hybrid Racing has the motor mount kits. IMO the swap itself is actually quite easier than that of a B-series swap and only 3 mounts are used. There's plenty of space too in contrast to a b-swap. You will have to drill out the welds for the tranny bracket in order to fit the K in there.
Hasport and other companies provide K-swap axles, or you can go the OEM route by just using K20A3 axles (02-04 si/02-06 base rsx).
Hasport/Hybrid Racing/Rywire/Rkrew all provide the wire harness for the swap.
The most common and affordable header for the swap that makes good power is the R-crew header, although, Hasport has their own affordable header too as well as DC Sports. If you wanna go baller status Hitech or SMS makes some sick headers. You will have to get your B-pipe redone for sure when going K.
The shifter box assembly is cable driven. You have a couple options, but the most common choices are to either go with the Karcepts shifter kit (which requires cutting) and allows you to submerge the shifter box into the exhaust tunnel so that you can retain your center console...or you can choose not to cut and just top mount the shifter box over your shifter hole, downside is you can't put back your center console.
For intake systems, AEM has hybrid intake system they sell that was prototyped off my car *snicker*. A bunch of other places have premade intakes as well, Karcepts & K-tuned are just a few.
The K is NOT too heavy for auto-x or road racing; as mentioned it's lighter than a b-series engine. I road race my K-EG and absolutely LOVE IT. I did have to play around with suspension settings (ie. dampening) to get the right feel though.
As for power upgrades, right now there's a few intake manifold upgrades that are the talk of the town, one of them being the OEM intake manifold from the 06+ Si (ie.RBC manifold). Another is the IPS intake manifold that runs a huge throttlebody but costs are around $1500. So yeah. There's a bunch of K camshafts on the market as well (IPS, skunk2, OEM). If you wanna save a few $$ the best OEM cams right now are the 06-08 TSX cams (better specs than type-R cams).
Head over to http://www.K20A.org and read till your eyeballs fall out on all things K-series...
hth
katman, thank you for kicking so much ***! im in Japan right now (stationed here) and am getting an EG6 for free from a friend who is deploying. Im fixin to go to a junk yard here and pick up a K20A and swap it in. The K-swaps are NOT popular here, and there is really no aftermarket available for the conversions so all this is fantastic information for me! I can just have hasport and R-crew ship it to my APO re-routing address and slide this **** in.
Im huge into touge here, the moutains are crawling with fools that need to get taken down.
Thanks for all your help!
Im huge into touge here, the moutains are crawling with fools that need to get taken down.
Thanks for all your help!
also.. question: would the K20A out of this car swap into an EG?
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I think thats one of these. http://asia.vtec.net/article/k20a/ I have never seen that intake manifold before. Crazy stuff. I don't see why it wouldnt fit, no transmission tho.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by n0mad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also.. question: would the K20A out of this car swap into an EG?
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That engine is not a true "K20A" so to speak. The real JDM K20A has a red valve cover and true 3-lobe VTEC as well as a METAL intake manifold and produces 220whp. The engine you linked is equivalent to the USDM K20A3 from the EP3 Si (160hp) and would be less than ideal to swap. All motors in Japan are produced with only FOUR engine code letters. So all K20's will be K20A's and the only way to differentiate them is by looks.
this is what a "real K20A" looks like - http://www.flashoptions.com/i_prod/k20crpic1.jpg
Hope that helps.
-Froth
http://translate.google.com/tr...tl=en</TD></TR></TABLE>
That engine is not a true "K20A" so to speak. The real JDM K20A has a red valve cover and true 3-lobe VTEC as well as a METAL intake manifold and produces 220whp. The engine you linked is equivalent to the USDM K20A3 from the EP3 Si (160hp) and would be less than ideal to swap. All motors in Japan are produced with only FOUR engine code letters. So all K20's will be K20A's and the only way to differentiate them is by looks.
this is what a "real K20A" looks like - http://www.flashoptions.com/i_prod/k20crpic1.jpg
Hope that helps.
-Froth
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by n0mad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also.. question: would the K20A out of this car swap into an EG?
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yea...no problem on the help! get that **** in there and get your touge battle on!
Like Froth said, that is not the right K20A.
The one you linked to is from some low-end model Civic, RSX, or Accord.
You want a complete K20A out of a DC5/RSX-R or EP3/Civic-R. The Accord Euro-R K20A is equivilent to that of the DC5 or EP3 K20A longblock, but the transmission isn't compatible when using Hasport mounts (the tranny shell has a different tranny mount point, same as the US TSX and Accord) .
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yea...no problem on the help! get that **** in there and get your touge battle on!
Like Froth said, that is not the right K20A.
The one you linked to is from some low-end model Civic, RSX, or Accord.
You want a complete K20A out of a DC5/RSX-R or EP3/Civic-R. The Accord Euro-R K20A is equivilent to that of the DC5 or EP3 K20A longblock, but the transmission isn't compatible when using Hasport mounts (the tranny shell has a different tranny mount point, same as the US TSX and Accord) .
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