Im building an h23 vtec i have a 92 h23 block and 94 h22a head, the only head bolts i have are way to short. Which ones am i supposed two use? any info helps ive tryd h23 oem head bolts and 92 96 h22a head studs
thanks guy


Modified by redrocketdoggy at 3:31 PM 4/18/2007

 

im not positive on this but i think you have to use h22 head bolts, i think i read it somewhere. search

 

h22 head bolts, h23's are way too short

 

so the arp h22a head studs will work if i buy them, they lookd way short to and i didnt want to spend the money if they wont

 

yeah arp h22 head bolts is exactly what you need. you can use oem ones, but once i remove them i like to replace them with arp's

 

Ok thanks man thats what i need to here, time to get it together and to the track next weekend

 

do it, let me know what happens

 

will do thanks again

 

np

 

Just do yourself a favor, and make sure that your bottom end is in good shape, I've said it before, alot of reason this swap gets the bad rap from the guys that say " oh my friend did this and he spun a bearing, he says it's not a good swap, blah,blah" Because alot of guys, dump a high reving head onto a already maintenance neglected bottom end. The best way to do this, is to rebiuld your bottom end, then dump the H22 head on. If your sticking the head onto a 100,000 plus bottom end, that's never been maintained, then spin it to 8000, please don't be surprised, when you spin a bearing or something, then come on here and say that this is a crappy swap. Talk to the guys that have done it right before going one way or the other. I rebiult my bottom end, in my H23 prelude, then put a fresh H22 head on when I did this swap, and it lasted a long time, and I took it all the way to 8000, very often, and spraying. It was a great swap, the only reason it died, on me was, my tranny had a problem stayin in 3rd, my ecu did not have a rev limiter, and while on the juice, popped out of 3rd, and spun to 9000 according to my tac, a funny little noise, and a puff of smoke, and that's all she wrote, and just for the record, it was the valve train that went, not the bottom end. The only problem that the bottm end had, was indentations on the top of the pistons, where the valve hit. Sorry so long, but I wanted to share, my experience with this swap.


P.s don't forget to remove the oil plug in the block also, arp head studs are not a bad way to go with this set up.