Okay, I have an H22A in my '94 Civic Coupe. I have a full N1 exhaust w/ no cat, an AEM Hybrid CAI, an AEM High Volume Fuel Rail, and a Skunk2 Coilover ride sitting on AGXs. Should I now invest in a 6 puck ACT with a Fidanza flywheel, a Skunk2 intake manifold, a header, or a VTEC controller? Thanks, Bob.

 

Dont waste your money on Skunk 2 manifold the gains have yet to be proven yet. Everything else is probably a good buy..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rfoster03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay, I have an H22A in my '94 Civic Coupe. I have a full N1 exhaust w/ no cat, an AEM Hybrid CAI, an AEM High Volume Fuel Rail, and a Skunk2 Coilover ride sitting on AGXs. Should I now invest in a 6 puck ACT with a Fidanza flywheel, a Skunk2 intake manifold, a header, or a VTEC controller? Thanks, Bob.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What are your plans? With your current setup that 6 puck would be a bit much, I would think. I would definently go with the fidanza 8lb flywheel, i have one and couldnt be happier with it. Im with jason on the manny, hold off on that. If it were me i wouldnt even bother with the vtec controller and just do a programmable ecu. I would also add an AEM fpr for tuning.

Just my .02

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rfoster03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay, I have an H22A in my '94 Civic Coupe. I have a full N1 exhaust w/ no cat, an AEM Hybrid CAI, an AEM High Volume Fuel Rail, and a Skunk2 Coilover ride sitting on AGXs. Should I now invest in a 6 puck ACT with a Fidanza flywheel, a Skunk2 intake manifold, a header, or a VTEC controller? Thanks, Bob.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well unless your planning on 400+whp you should sell you fuel rail and put the stock one back in.

Ixnay the IM, get a euroR, it's proven at least 6whp on a stock motor across the rev range. Get a header, leave your stock clutch. I couldn't see why you would need a flywheel, but some people like them. No to the vtec controller as well. Just get a socketed p28 and either uberdata or hondata. Then tune. If you get a decent header you should be making somewhere around 190whp.

Drive it, love it. Then figure out what you want your car for and then decide on major things after that.

 

Yeah, well the six puck is for the turbo setup I have planned for April. And go with the EURO R rather than the Skunk 2? By the way I'm running a P13, not a P28.

 

Next mod I would do in that aspect is clutch/flywheel.

The skunk2 does help out a lot in comparison to the stock shitty manifold, but I haven't seen any hard facts on paper.

 

8lb flywheel and exedy racing clutch was my first mod.... try to release some of the untapped potential of that H22.. next should be a good header, and a 3" intake, and also a chipped ECU fine tuned with VAFC or just go hondata

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">8lb flywheel and exedy racing clutch was my first mod.... try to release some of the untapped potential of that H22.. next should be a good header, and a 3" intake, and also a chipped ECU fine tuned with VAFC or just go hondata</TD></TR></TABLE>

If he's going turbo he's wasting 400-1000 bucks on a header he won't be able to use. And unless he wants to just barely get by, he should invest in the vafc either. The 3" intake will also be a waste of time if he's going turbo.

 

just going by what worked for me. Im happy.. now i need cams and pistons

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rfoster03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, well the six puck is for the turbo setup I have planned for April. And go with the EURO R rather than the Skunk 2? By the way I'm running a P13, not a P28.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well in that case dont get the lightened flywheel and dont do the header. Save the money for a nice aem ems or socketed ecu. You also may want to save some of those pennies for the block resleeving.

 

Why does everyone still hate on the SK2 IM, when it seems like no one really has done baseline runs from one setup to the next with the addition of the IM.

Unless i missed the graphs...would you agree that it can still be up for debate wether it's effective or not?

just my .02$

 

I would get the Euro-R manifold over the skunk2.. just my 2 cents

 

other than proven 5-6whp gains..y?

That's my ? to the board. It'll cost you to fabricate to fit our H application in the civic..and with all that...Y the euro over the SK2.

just curious...not arguing or disagreeing..just looking for answers

 

i saw my buddies h22 civic with SK2 manifold loose 5whp with it, so that is my reason. Also when you use the Euro-R, you dont have to relocate your brake proportioning valve, and the IACV is a lot easier to hook-up. It also has slightly shorter runners so it actually sits a bit closer to the motor giving you more precious space between the firewall and your intake manifold.

Just my 2 cents

 

The skank 2 manifold does blow some goat dick....I have it in my H22 and feel the difference of lag throughout the powerband. I would have already of taken it off to put it back to stock but its just such a pain in the ***! BTW, how much do those Euro R manifold's go for? Ill sell my piece and buy one of those.

 

just curious us to how much you want for the skank..heh

i just relocated my brake lines so i want to get mine asap

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">iand the IACV is a lot easier to hook-up. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Huh? No, I have installed/going to install both. S2 IACV is easier.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i saw my buddies h22 civic with SK2 manifold loose 5whp with it, so that is my reason. Also when you use the Euro-R, you dont have to relocate your brake proportioning valve, and the IACV is a lot easier to hook-up. It also has slightly shorter runners so it actually sits a bit closer to the motor giving you more precious space between the firewall and your intake manifold.

Just my 2 cents </TD></TR></TABLE>
You forgot a few things for the euro-r
1. Fuel rail mounting. The Euro uses a different system (2 bolt, not 3, like h22a)
2. You have to grind the flange for it to fit right.
3. You have to plug the vacuum hole you do not need.
4. You have to block EGR ports, if you do not run them.
5. You have to make a throttle bracket.
6. You have to get a thread in style IAT.


Reason people hate shunk2
People see one post bad about the IM, then pass it on
People just install the IM on a stock motor (it is designed more for a bigger/better breathing motor, not stock)


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by poison &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The skunk2 does help out a lot in comparison to the stock shitty manifold.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Shut up, you ricer.

If you only knew what a modded stock IM could do.

BTW: In 2 months (roughly) I am putting together two cars that have the same set-ups, but one is running the shunk2 and one is running the euro-r.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">People just install the IM on a stock motor (it is designed more for a bigger/better breathing motor, not stock)</TD></TR></TABLE>


I fully agree to that, which is why I wouldn't use one. For me to reap the benifits of a SK2 intake manifold, i would have to spend another $1500 - $2000 on engine internal work like: big cams, a good port, good valve job, sleeve the bottom end so i can use higher compression pistons to work with the cams. I just couldn't justify it.
If, however, I had a built N/A motor, I would not hesitate to try out the SK2...

BUT i dont have a built motor, just minor bolt ons, so to me, its a waste of cash.


Even if i had mild cams like type-s and some type-s pistons, I still dont think it would make a big defference with the SK2


Catch my drift?

 

DarkKnight[DMD]... you runnin uber yet? if so could I get details and advice?

 

Well now that we've settled the IM problem (sorta), what brand of Forced Induction Camshafts should I run in the H22? Skunk, Crower, Toda...?

 

Oh, one more thing. I am currently in the process of trying to find a new thermostat for the JDM H22A, however, the only thing Advance and NAPA have are offset ones that match the H22 VTEC, but theyre slightly smaller than the one in the car now. I didn't think JDM and USDM would be any different. Do I need an accord thermostat or something?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastwanabe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DarkKnight[DMD]... you runnin uber yet? if so could I get details and advice?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not yet, still waiting on my welder to fix my transmission casing.... damn guy cut the tips of his fingers off like 2 weeks ago... so hopefully soon.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rfoster03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh, one more thing. I am currently in the process of trying to find a new thermostat for the JDM H22A, however, the only thing Advance and NAPA have are offset ones that match the H22 VTEC, but theyre slightly smaller than the one in the car now. I didn't think JDM and USDM would be any different. Do I need an accord thermostat or something?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ran into the same problem myself. The USDM is a bit smaller in size then the jdm, for some reason the jdm thermos are a bit beefier. All you have to do is use the gasket off of your jdm thermo on the new usdm one.

 

everythin sounds good except that 6- puck clutch, unless ure lanning on only raing its ganna suck on the street, it will chatter really really bad, my friend had one b 4 and it sucked, go with the organic street disc with the xtreme pressure plate if u want it to be better on the street

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thea5rida &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">everythin sounds good except that 6- puck clutch, unless ure lanning on only raing its ganna suck on the street, it will chatter really really bad, my friend had one b 4 and it sucked, go with the organic street disc with the xtreme pressure plate if u want it to be better on the street</TD></TR></TABLE>
what?

6puck is (if u can handle it )