Hey, this will be my first build thread. I'm going h2b in a 92 eg hatch I have read n search about what is needed n what to get. But I ran into a small problem, I don't know out of a h23v blue top or a h22 euro type r?
I'm buying both motors from HMO. It will be with JdM b16 with LSD. The car will be my dd n once in a while take it to the track.
I orders a new radiator
New fan
QSD alternative
Kstuned balance shaft eliminator

I still need to order new headers, mounts, I'm porting the throttle body n intake to match.

Don't remember what else I need.
I was reading n I heard the the h23v blue top makes more hp then the euro r bc the spec they give is from a auto but when you make it manual it will make more hp. Don't know if it's true but if it is I will be saving $600.
H23v $1099
H22 euro r $1799

 

H23a and ask for one with a pde head and just so you know hmotors does not include a crank pulley so tell them you want the euro r single row. I just bought a h23a from hmo and tore it apart prob the cleanest motor I have ever gotten .and look into whitfeild racing for your header needs they are nice just got one and love the quality

 

But I mean for price would the h23a give me more power? Seens I'm going to have about $600 if I go with the h23? What you putting the h23 in?

 

I believe the euro r has the same half shaft mounts on the block as an atts motor. I could be wrong. But something to find out first.

 

I been reading about h23a for a couple days I have heard good things about them. That they make really good power low-mid range. N that they come in a a automatic wagon that's why they say they make 197hp. But I was reading and someone was talking about ones you make it's 5speed they make more hp. But really haven't found much about them.
What I like is that noone really has them.

 

No I'm pretty sure the euro r block is dif then the sh and the h23a is a awesome motors can't wait to finish my build

 

I read good things about it. So I'm going to stick it the h23a n ill order a pulley. Would the euro r single pulley work on the h23? I'm trying to reach about 210hp n break 12's on slicks. I would be happy with that. I was looking at the bisimotos headers the v2. I'm building mine all motor.
Was thinking or porting the throttle body or buying a new one from skunk 2.

 

That's the pulley you want the euro r single

 

Can I just order it from HMO when I call n order the h23a? Or do I have to go online n look for it? My old b16 I got from HMO n it was healthy it held alot of nitrous stock motor..

 

Just tell them u want a euro r pulley when u buy the motor

 

Ok ill do that.. What should I rev it to? I was reading and someone say don't go pass 7500rpm n I seen ppl rev to 8200rpm stock internal.

 

so i got a couple things on the mail
QSD alternator relocator
Downstar all chassy bolts
New radiator

still waiting for QSD H2b bracket and kstuned balance shaft eliminator.
n the most important the motor..
need help with headers kinda have to go on a budget, spend money on my wife for her Bd so i was thinking of some PLM 4-1 headers.
and thinking of buying a RBC intake mani i found one for $185
need some advice. painting the engine bay hopefully next week, ill be doing the work myself.

 

Save and buy the euro r look into rosko racing and for a header look at Jason whitfeild I picked up a used one and its nice rmf style .we are doing the exact same build I'm going type s pistons and pro1s with a ferrea head package with type r tranny . I think it will be a fun dd

 

Ended up going with the h23a blue top.
New exedy clutch kit
New water pump
Kstuned balance shaft eliminator

 

H23a blue top

 

I have h2b H23A blue top and love it. If you have any questions, PM me and I will be happy to help you with anything I can. 218WHP 174TQ on stock internals. Peak HP is at 7250 RPM, and the rev limiter is set at 7700. You can go up to 8,000 on the stock cams and valve-train, but I wouldn't go over that. Also the only way I would rev it that high is if you continue to make enough power at those RPMS relative to where you would shift in the next gear, or if you are running out of gear on the 1/4 mile and need to rev it out. For me as a DD 7700 is more than enough. Anyways holler if you got questions.

 

Not tryin to rev the motor more then 7500rpm, I'm thinking of using a catch can n maybe in a couple of month skunk 2 pro 1's cams

 

Yo, did you get this sorted out? Can you send that manifold to me please?

 

Are you still alive? What happened? Also I have some Skunk pro1's if you want some at a good discount. They were ran on the dyno and driven for 200 miles. They made 226 WHP... that's right... at the wheels. I'm thinking I could still tune more out of them.

 

aLlm0t0rboY is a THIEF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Don't waste your time helping this scumbag. I'm sorry I ever did.

 

What happened?