a friend of mine can get a hold of OBD-0 B16's for $900 complete. the only problem is, i have a 92 hatch (OBD-1).

now, ive asked around and half say dont and have say it doesnt matter. but whats the difference in converting down to OBD-0? pros? cons? and will i pass emissions?

i mean, $900 is like $350 cheaper than ive seen online for the OBD-0 b16's. is it worth it?

 

Forget about "converting down in obds". Run that motor obd1. Get a p30 or chipped p28 ecu. Reuse your current injectors and o2 sensor. Purchase a obd1 b-series vtec distributor. After that you're motor will be converted to obd1. FYI, 1st gen b16's have less aggressive cams than later b16's.

 

Converting down is just a bad idea. Let's just say there is are good reasons why 1988-1991 people upgrade to 1992-1995 electronics. Why undo one of the great advantages your car has over older Civics? If you downgrade, there are several problems you will have to deal with:

1. The wiring itself. Although it could be done, it is not documented because nobody does it. You are on your own here.

2. Cantankerous distributers. 1988-1991 distributers are known to not be the most reliable in the world. And as you probably know, you can't use a 1992-1995 distributer with a 1988-1991 ECU.

3. Oxygen sensors. This might not seem like much. But it really is. The 1G B16A uses a really retarded twin oxygen sensor setup in the exhaust manifold. And pretty much ANY header you buy will only accommodate one (and not in the right place to boot). This necessitates the hacking of a nice, new, shiny header - just to accommodate an archaic setup. Not the sort of thing you want to do to that nice, new $1000+ DTR, SMSP, or HyTech.

4. Reduced fuel economy. It is a well known fact that a B16A will return fewer MPG with a 1988-1991 ECU. Expect freeway fuel economy to drop from the low-30's to the mid to high 20's if you downgrade

5. Fewer tuning options. This is a BIG reason why 1988-1991 Civic and CRX people upgrade to the newer stuff. There is just so much more you can do with it.

6. Smog. This may or may not be a problem for you. But if you have to deal with a visual smog inspection, you MUST run the proper ECU for the motor that you are running OR the proper ECU for a USDM equivalent that is of the same year or newer than your car.

 

Also don't forget that the OBD0 B16's came with cable tranny's if you are referring to a full swap which I assume you are. Of course HASport sells a conversion kit with mount to fit the EG chassis but that's just more $ to add to the list. If you were just buying a longblock and had a hydro tranny and the other OBD1 parts then it wouldn't be that big of a deal, but if you are starting out and needing a full swap I would definitely save up for a second gen OBD1 B16A with hydro tranny.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTECVillain &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also don't forget that the OBD0 B16's came with cable tranny's if you are referring to a full swap which I assume you are. Of course HASport sells a conversion kit with mount to fit the EG chassis but that's just more $ to add to the list. If you were just buying a longblock and had a hydro tranny and the other OBD1 parts then it wouldn't be that big of a deal, but if you are starting out and needing a full swap I would definitely save up for a second gen OBD1 B16A with hydro tranny.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good point. That Hasport cable conversion is probably going to eat away alot of the price advantage to buying this swap.