hey brian i've been reading about all this k20a swap for some time now. Im selling my ITR motor this weekend. now i can get a k20a itr motor. for sure im buying the mounts from you this week but i have a couple of questions.

What i will buy this weekend....
hasport motor mount, harness and header, fpr AEM, rsx radiator, napa serpentine belt, hoses, and the k20 itr motor (gotta search for one) anyone got a site?

For a DC2.
1. would i need new axles?
2. new shifter cable? or would the rsx work?
3. clutch line? if yes, what kind?
4. radiator mounted temp sensor?
5. fuel rail?
6. anything else i must need?

thanks for the help.. everyones comment would be wounderful. I promise pix of the work.. i still need to figure how to do the a/c and p/s.

 

you're selling a TypeR B18C5 for a K20?

sorry, don't mean to be an ***, but is it just to have something new? just wondering why???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TypeR0186 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
For a DC2.
1. would i need new axles? yes
3. clutch line? if yes, what kind? yes
5. fuel rail? yes
6. anything else i must need? Look below
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Axles: $299
Shift Cables: $230
Shifter Box: $75
Mounts: $599
Harness: $300
Header: $400 to $1250
Fuel Pressure Regulator: $170
Fuel Lines: $200
Civic Si Idler Pulley/Bracket $66
NAPA Serpentine Belt $45

You can get everything from Hasport or Hybrid Racing. I wouldnt recommend putting the p/s even though you find the way to do it, without p/s is just fine. To do a/c you just need custom lines.

 

 

can't do to much on the b18c5. maybe i just want a sixspeed or just to try someting new.

 

would this fit the dc2 Civic Si Idler Pulley/Bracket ? i don't see u have fuel rail on ur part list there. what else u think i might need?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Alberto &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Axles: $299
Shift Cables: $230
Shifter Box: $75
Mounts: $599
Harness: $300
Header: $400 to $1250
Fuel Pressure Regulator: $170
Fuel Lines: $200
Civic Si Idler Pulley/Bracket $66
NAPA Serpentine Belt $45

You can get everything from Hasport or Hybrid Racing. I wouldnt recommend putting the p/s even though you find the way to do it, without p/s is just fine. To do a/c you just need custom lines.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont know where your located. but if your serious hit up rcrewracing.com
cool *** guys, they have everything you need, and probably the best deals out there.
they include the shifter cables, and shifter box in the swap. the harness from them is only 200, and anything else you need, they can get there hands on for good deals.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TypeR0186 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What i will buy this weekend....
hasport motor mount, harness and header, fpr AEM, rsx radiator, napa serpentine belt, hoses, and the k20 itr motor (gotta search for one) anyone got a site?

For a DC2.
1. would i need new axles?
2. new shifter cable? or would the rsx work?
3. clutch line? if yes, what kind?
4. radiator mounted temp sensor?
5. fuel rail?
6. anything else i must need?
i still need to figure how to do the a/c and p/s.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

For the engine, http://www.car-part.com

1. You could probably get away with just changing the inner joint on the left-hand axle. I haven't personally done it, but it measures out to be correct.
2. RSX cables should be used, but understand that they are a little on the short side so you'll want to cut a hole forward on the firewall above where it meets the floor so that they can reach without having to mount the shifter too far forward.
3.You have a coouple of choices here. One is to purchase a long flexible custom line to reach from the master to the slave. What we have done is to keep the hard line that goes from the slave to the back of the tranny and then use the short soft line from the DC to go from the hard line to the frame rail. We then bought a 12 inch long hard line from NAPA with metric fittings and bent it to go from the slave to the soft line. It looks like factory.
4. I would not mount the temp sensor on the radiator unless it's at the top. A better choice is to get our hose adapter, or use an adapter on the air assist valve fitting and omit the air assist valve. If you're talking about radiator fan switch, that's different.
5. You don't have to use a new fuel rail although I would reccomend it for boosted applications and it's necessary for high HP applications. For our stock K24 applications we just used the quick disconnect end cut out from a fuel hose and made our own hose.
6. Yeah there is some other stuff. One of my employees is writing an article for magazine on the K24 into the EG, I need to pilfer some of the info and post it. Basically I should have done that some time ago, but my plate is a litle too full already.

I have pictures of the AC I need to resize and post and there are pict of Andrie Hartanto's EK and it has P/S. It will fit on your DC too.

brian g

 

i want pix.... thanks for the help Brian. i'll ask if there's more questions to come.

 

Here are the AC pics. Notice how the core support was modified to fit the radiator and condensor in their switched positions.





Here is P/S, click on new car emerges.

http://www.prima-racing.com/

brian g

 

brian car-part.com, how do i search for a k20a type r motor? because it only has rsx opions not type r. thanks for the pix. does that car have p/s (the one u post)?

 

You need to go to an engine importer to get a Type R. There are a lot of them.

The car I posted was a K24 powered Civic CX or DX. No P/S

brian g

 

Hmm, benefits from a k24 over a k20..hMm.. - Any difference in gains.. &gt;_&lt;

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by synik &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmm, benefits from a k24 over a k20..hMm.. - Any difference in gains.. &gt;_&lt; </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, but compared to the right motor. A fair comparison with that motor would be a K20A3. Both put out 160, and have the less desireable style of iVTEC. But the K24 is soooo much more torquey. It makes the car scoot a lot quicker.

The big adavantage with that motor is that it costs less than a grand.

brian g

I always know I'm spending too much time on the 'net when people put my name in title.

 

do i smell a k24 frankenstine anybody?

 

yeah. where can you get an k20a engine? search all over the web and no luck. any help? all sold out most websites. any phone number i can call them at?


Modified by synik at 10:37 PM 9/23/2004

 

Brian do i need a new belt if i use p/s and a/c or the stock one would work?

 

If you have P/S and A/C then the stock belt is best.

brian g

 

one more question do you need the fuse box from dc5 or the stock one would work? brian can you show me a picture with a hole cut out on the floor for the shifter cable?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iakona &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you're selling a TypeR B18C5 for a K20?

sorry, don't mean to be an ***, but is it just to have something new? just wondering why???</TD></TR></TABLE>

k20 can whoop and b18c5 anyday.....Ima do an build,k20 in my dc4 after i get bored of my lsvtec,if i ever do.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AllMotorLsVtecDc4Rs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

k20 can whoop and b18c5 anyday.....Ima do an build,k20 in my dc4 after i get bored of my lsvtec,if i ever do.....</TD></TR></TABLE> more like the other way, b18c5 can whoop a k20 from personal experience.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AllMotorLsVtecDc4Rs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

k20 can whoop and b18c5 anyday.....Ima do an build,k20 in my dc4 after i get bored of my lsvtec,if i ever do.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

cool. just checking. since guys are fiending for B18s and suddenly it's now K20s. not that i'm stuck in the past, but i was confused because he already had a B18C5. because i see that you have a 4-door teg.

morbid curiosity gets the best of me once again.

 

Have you put the k24 from the tsx in any civics or integras. It has the rsx type s style vtec and puts out a lot of torque and good horsepower too. Whats your opinions on this motor.

 

hey, do i need radiator hose adapter? if i do which one? i'm probably getting a half radiator like a civic kind. whats the best half or full size radiator? and do i still need a new fuse box? or the stock one from my dc2 would work? thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aj99si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Have you put the k24 from the tsx in any civics or integras. It has the rsx type s style vtec and puts out a lot of torque and good horsepower too. Whats your opinions on this motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>


No I thought I'd put a TSX into a 94 Accord first.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TypeR0186 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey, do i need radiator hose adapter? if i do which one? i'm probably getting a half radiator like a civic kind. whats the best half or full size radiator? and do i still need a new fuse box? or the stock one from my dc2 would work? thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

Full Size is best, but we used a half size radiator in our Civics in Arizona and had no cooling problems. If your radiator has no fan switch, then yes you do. You can use your DC2 fuse box.

brian g