Oh yeah, the car HOLDS pressure very well, so the injector seals seem to be good, as well as the regulator; I think maybe I need to try a different fuel pump to take care of the rich issue. I have GOT to figure this spark out though.

 

I forgot to mention, I've been seeing reddish-brownish crud in the cap; so.....apparently this is a sign that the dizzy is going bad; what part exactly? If I have to replace it, I'd much rather have a brand new one from Honda....but those aren't exactly cheap lol.

 

Bump for some ideas fella's...

 

Walbro's do push a little more pressure past the injector,
causing most cars ive seen with them to run pretty rich.
That is why we have adjustable fuel pressure regulators, expecially with 190whp. b18c.
if you get one install it,
and i think stock spec is 44-47psi.
but adjust accordingly to your build/setup.
If you still run rich after that it is probably within the tune!
Doing this will also x out if you have a bad FPR.

?ask buddy what fuel system he ran with that motor and box
the tune hasnt changed and so shouldnt the setup unless you retune for differences from your buds car.

 

I appreciate thr reply man. I just got a dizzy from a friend yesterday and have yet to install it, calibrate my TPS, or install an FPR; im ordering one tomorrow. I'll phone the verdict in in a couple days once everything is installed.

 

Okay, So I began to take apart my dizzys; I now think the redish-brownish crap i was seeing in my dizzy cap was just oxidation from different spots in the dizzy. Anyways, I began pulling everything apart from the two dizzys, and when I pulled MY coil, I found it rusted and SWOLLEN like it'd been in water or something. Completely confused, I swapped my coils around; the other coil was new...minus the spring which once again is from a pen ...... -____- anyways, I put it all back together and reinstalled it and tried to calibrate my TPS because I pulled it off to look at it.

I CAN NOT GET IT TO CALIBRATE PROPERLY.

closed, it reads like......00072 volts....wide open fully adjusted one way it reads 3.9 volts, and fully adjusted the other way it reads 2.8. This is probably part of another issue I have been having. Does this mean that the TPS is bad?? Or do you guys think I just screwed somethin' up???

 

Been a while since I've messed with the car, let alone posted. I got the TPS calibrated dead on, and the car is running decent; it still misses every now and then, but I haven't set my timing back up NOR have I corrected my drunken idle since I've had my dizzy apart, AND it has a spring from a pen in it instead of the proper spring that goes between the ignition coil tower and the dizzy cap. I replaced my fuel pressure regulator with another factory fpr; not the exact same design, but with the same NR-1 stamp on it. I'm going to drive the car at a steady throttle, tach it out, let it warm up and play with it some more eventually and I think this will knock it out. I think the FPR was the main issue, it just took me forever to care enough to fix it. I'll update this as soon as I actually care to take a day to knock the car completely out.

 

I'm feeling lazy and won't run through my thread to see if I've talked about my bogus idle; the car will sometimes (more often than not, especially when not fully warmed up) die any time I have to come to a stop. It'll restart, but it's very annoying. I cleaned out my IACV with around a half of a can of carb cleaner, and it helped, but the car is still idling strangely; always has. It hunts, and then when warm it idles too low. I backed out the adjustment screw ALL the way out, and it still dies out lol.

Also, When we swapped my car, my friend took the Throttle body off of his Type R and put it on my car since the Throttle body on my 94 B18C1 had no TB on it; I went to clean the FITV thinking maybe this was my problem, but...wait....there was absolutely NO FITV on the TB!!! I have recently learned that the OBD2 cars don't have the FITV. I am wondering if THIS is affecting my car; when I plug the hole that goes to the IACV from the TB, the car DIES.

Anyways, the car "braps" like a muscle car at idle when fully warmed up, and idles to low, despite me backing that idle adjustment screw ALL the way off from the TB, as well as running it all the way IN. I can't figure this out; I went as far as to make a DIY grounding kit for the car thinking maybe it just wasn't grounded well. Anyways, even when the car is idling "okay" it bounces and hunts. It has an OLD SKUNK WORKS type R replica intake plenum as well as OLD SKUNK WORKS type R replica cams. I have heard that the older cams idle strangely, and that the intake can contribute, does anyone have any knowledge on this?? My TB gasket has a small tear in it too, could THIS be it!? LOL, I'm at a loss guys, but should I try to get another OBD1 TB with the Fast Idle Themo Valve on it? HELP!!

 

I forgot to add......I've thought about replacing my PCV vavle; one the GSR engine, it's attached to a big black box, right??? While me and my friend were swapping....I do not recall said big black box...........where exactly should it be at on the car....maybe I'm missing it, but I don't see it......

 

The car has a valve cover breather filter on it and no PCV system I can see, it's no big deal to add it back on, right? Anyone?

 

Reasons Idle could be erratic:

Vacuum leak somewhere; I sprayed an entire can of carb cleaner and nothing happened anywhere; my TB gasket does have a slight tear in it, I should replace it.

Air in coolant system: Doesn't seem to be the case

IACV bad? Perhaps; I cleaned it and it got better, but the idle still won't stabilize.

There is no FITV on my car, so that's not a possibility.

Breather filter instead of a PCV system: Perhaps because there are no oil vapors going into the intake the AFR is slightly off; car is still more rich than it should be I'm sure.

Timing could be off: I'm certain it is slightly off; I had to take apart my entire dizzy and replace components and I just threw it back on my car without timing anything.

ECU didn't re-learn Idle properly: Perhaps; I plan on "teaching" it properly after I time it.

Timing belt could be off: Maybe.

Idle adjustment screw could be out of whack: Perhaps.

Most of these things will be checked in a few days and I'll phone in the verdict. This thread is more so a compilation of my ideas and progress since absolutely NO one is chiming in on anything.