why can't you use 550hp on the street? not legally of course but I don't see anyone hating on the ZR1 for coming with over 600hp stock, or hating on the 500hp GTR, porsche turbo, ferrari enzo, etc. why wouldn't you want supercar level power in any car let alone an S2000 with it's awesome chassis and looks? if fast is good then faster is better

 

I couldnt handle this thread any more.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=es1iCpOx03Q
I used every bit of 543whp I had and had traction in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th gear. Granted, I had mickey thompson et streets on. The car is hella fun and mad reliable. I had dyno pulls, track passes, street pulls, drove it on trips everything. I'll be pushing the s2k stock motor further some more later this month or next month when ever its finished. People saying its only gonna last 3 passes/pulls or whatever obviously havent pushed this motor at all. I'm not a fan on the head gasket at all. I rather use race gas on the stock compression. The full-race kit is VERY efficient and makes the most power per psi on the market. Check this thread also.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/drag-racing-36/my-s2k-meets-t1-%2Adrag-s2k-build%2A-2445762/

 

I knew I recognized your screen name, thanks for posting! how's your build going?

 

i like how the sentra looked like it was catching up
and I love how people make shitty videos, then add "productions"... like it's professional or something.


and go for gold... I wanna see what you do with the S...

 

the sentra makes 320whp and i didnt make the video lol. i just figured id throw it up.

 

Good vid Kutz.

I'm thinking pfab EL mani, 35r, aem and all the supporting mods.

450whpish on pump, 5xx on race.

 

that shouldn't be too hard, full race says their GT30R kit is good for 550whp so you may not need to run the larger GT35R since you're not going for the higher hoursepower levels. if it'll spool up the same then way not, otherwise the extra lag of the bigger turbo might be annoying without the payoff of tons of power when it does spool up you're probably best off calling them directly and asking them about where the two turbos spool up. if you get an answer let me know

 

I love how you compare the S2000 to exotics like a true idiot/fanboi. The main reason that the ZR1, Enzo, Porsche, and GTR can use 500hp on the street is because their were MILLIONS spent on R&D to get these cars as close to perfect in their own right as possible. They were built to sustain those speeds, the S2000 was not. Anything can be made fast, but not all fast cars are equal. I would be fearful to drive a 550WHP S2000 on the street with as light as the *** of the car is. As much as I love my S2k, the fact that you even try to compare it's looks to any of the cars listed is mind blowing.

 

Diff will need upgrading. Axles are close to their limit in the mid-500s. Tranny is a mystery. A guy in ATL went through 3 or them at 550rwhp before he went PPG. Others are putting fown 600 plus without issue.

The connecting rods are the weak link in the bottom end, but I have seen a COMPLETELY stock motor, with 125k miles, take 600rwhp... over 50 dyno pulls over 500hp, probably 50 more at the 400-500whp level.

Go to s2ki and see what Mase did to Phils2k's car...

Its all in the tune. Provided quality parts. Stock engine is ROBUST.

Remember if you swap the pistons, you will need to swap the cylinder liners too... We have FRM sleees OEM, and low comp pistons tend to chew on them.

I put down 336/205 on only 6.5psi... LAskey engine going in this weekend, hoping for 500 "peace of mind" horsepower out if it (750cc injectors will be my limiting factor).

Ohn

 

you need to go read on up on some info kid.
where did anyone ever compare a s2k to an exotic?????
and as far as sustaining those speeds i dont think he wants a 180mph+ car!!
he just looking to have some fun.

 

first off honda probably spends millions in R&D on the civic alone.

second, I never compared the S2000's looks, build quality, or anything else to those exotics. I only mentioned it to point out nobody hates on those cars for having lots of power but for some reason people hate on the idea of an S2000 having a lot of power. and the S2000 isn't meant for those speeds? really? meanwhile there are 200mph+ land speed record civics and rsx's, pretty sure the S2000 is built as well as those if not a little better.

lastly genius, the S2000's rear is heavier than the front once you put people in it, 0 for 3 there buddy.

like someone else said, your 1st post just showed you to be the tool that you are besides that, why don't you try and be helpful next post instead of a hater.

 

nice! my buddy just installed his laskey built B16A into his civic, everything was perfect!

the only problem with upgrading the diff on the S is that now your weakest link is the tranny unless you're ready to drop $10,000 on the complete PPG tranny

 

^ I did not go for the all-out r200 conversion. I have a Comptech Reinforced, Cryo treated, and solid-sleeved OEM rear end. It will not take more than 550ish before it pops. Tranny has been documented good to 620rwhp (daily driven), as long as you do not beat on it (no powershifting... AP1 brass synchros don't like it too much and will lock out).

The guy who went through 3 tranny's was at the track pretty much every weekend, on slicks.

My tires will be my current weak link. Not going to stupid power. Once I reach 550rwhp, that is all this car can use, IMO, even with suspension / tire / rim mods I have (talking daily driving on street tires... it will be definitely as much as I can use).... I am running TEIN FLEX with EDFC, lowered 2", aggressive negative camber, plus I am probably over 3000# with the turbo bits and my audio system (more weight on the rear tires).

John

 

very cool, I'm looking to get the full-race kit on my car and run 500-550whp which they say you can do with their GT30R kit. if I did anything I would just do the rear end, like you said if you're nice to the tranny you'll be fine.

 

So do you want to build a drag car, or a track car?

 

Option C - street car.

 

Yes it's going to take a few more psi on the non collector style manifold to reach higher #'s, but I wouldn't say a full 10 psi! You should also take into account the heat soak of the tubular manifold and it's effect on the engines output when putting the car through it's paces. #'s that can't be shown on a dyno.

There is no disputing the fact that a short (almost non-existent) runner manifold will spool sooner then a long runner manifold. I am also not comparing "kits"! There are many other things that play a role in a setups efficiency, other then just the manifolds. For a manifold comparison, everything other then the tune must stay exactly the same. FR and ILP kits uses different IC pipes, IC styles (tube and fin / bar and plate), and IC sizes. Of course, best overall performance will go to full race. There products and designs are top notch. I know because I have run there products for many many years.

Of course, it's been proven time and time again that a well designed manifold with a good, long runner collector will destroy a cast style manifold in higher power performance every day of the week. A big role that is often over looks with manifold design is the cams. With stock AP2 cams, the cast manifold works very well. You will be better off with AP1 cams if you go with a tubular manifold. I too believe that many s2k guys just slap on an ILP kit just because others are doing it with relatively good success. I'll be honest with you, I do not support ILP in any way shape of forum. I would not recommend there "kit" to anyone and also believe that the s2k community is far behind in the forced induction field.

Now would be a good time to note Arturbo's SFWD civic... How long did he dominate the field while running a cast t4 ILP manifold while everyone else was running top mounts?

You just can't! Having driven a few 400+ HP S2000's, owning a 400+ HP 240 and a 650+ HP civic I can tell you it's not as easy as you may think. You really just can't compare these cars to the ones you have noted. Even with drag radials and advanced boost control it's just not that easy. Suspension and tires sizes play a key role here, THE key role really.

 

If you are hoping to have over 400 horse all the gears you will be using are gonna be pointless and a S2000 with lesser power might be faster. I asked papasmurf about boosting my S2000 before I did and he told me that 350 horse is more fun then 400. The car is gonna spin first, secound and third with power like that.

 

like White Smoke pointed out it's all about tires when you add lots of power. my CRX sucked *** on falken 615's that most people love. in my crx I could chirp 3rd if I wanted to off spray and annihilate 1st, 2nd, and 3rd on spray if I wanted to. going to the Advan A048's was so night and day on my CRX I'll never run a higer powered car without good tires again, the car just grips and goes now. I ran my buddy's lightly modded (but more power to the wheels than my CRX) WRX from a dig and he never got more than a 1/2 car in front of me then I sucked him up. when I need tires on the S I'm going to try the Kumho VictoRacer V700's, they're cheaper than the OEM tires and are stickier.

I don't 100% believe in the lower powered car always being faster but I can see the point. if you add more power and don't have enough traction you won't automatically be faster, like my CRX with the Falken 615's. but give a car more power and keep traction and it's obviously going to be faster also area under the curve on the dyno is equally if not more important than the peak number. if one S has 50 more whp than the next but it's only in a really narrow spot and it has less power everywhere else, then it's not going to be faster.

my buddy's supercharged S2000 with 306whp feels great because it's an eaton style blower with full boost as soon as you floor it. I'd bet money it would be faster than a vortech style blower with 325-350whp because of the power under the curve. at the moment it'll hold power from 1st gear on with the falken 615's that are on it. ultimately the goal is to have 400whp on his car and I think we'll be able to keep it firmly planted at that power, maybe it'll need different tires, we'll see.

 

I disagree, I didnt have a first and second gear on regular falken azenis tires on enkei rpf1's. I then bought a set of ET streets on stock tires and man was it a night and day difference. I had traction in first gear. A set of tires will make every bit of difference, like night and day. 415whp was alot of fun and still trapped 120mph in the 1/4 but the feeling of 550whp was nuts

My suspension is nothing more then a set of megan track coilovers and they are at the highest heigth they can go.

 

Some people can't afford to run drag radials on the street at all times... Also, your tires size is gonna play a big role as well. Most street cars run street tires, ones that are worth a **** in the rain.

 

my Advans have a pretty aggressive dry pattern to them and I've never had a problem in the rain, niether did my buddy with Advans on his S2. my friend had a 425whp mustang GT and he drove on BFG drag radials all the time, those hooked nice and weren't too bad in the rain either, but not as good as the advans. just don't drive like a re-re in the rain

the VictoRacers I want have a normal street tire tread pattern, plus they're AA traction rated, same as my Advans on my CRX but the VictoRacers are cheaper and slightly stickier. when you read the definitions of all the ratings the "traction" rating is the wet skid pad rating with the tires going 40mph, I always thought it was the dry rating until I read that on tirerack. so anything with a good traction rating should be safe in the wet provided you're not hauling ***

I didn't want drag radials because I didn't want the sloppy handling that the drg radials gave the car. this effected my FWD CRX more than it effected my buddy's mustang, but when I get tires on the S I want to make sure the handling gets better and not sloppy.

 

I agree with that and with traction comes stress on the diff. This guy has an Ap2 but will it hold up to 500 with traction?

Your buddys mustang is rear wheel drive so under acceleration all the weight is on the tires that deliver the power and your CRX its the same thing so you are gonna need some good tires to get moving...

 

would i be safe somewhere between 350-400hp daily driven on pump gas?

 

yeah if the tune is good...