In need of information/clarification
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In need of information/clarification
What's up guys (and girls). I have been a member of the board for quite some time, but have only recently ventured in to the world of S2000's. I am a devout Honda head and as of late have really been considering getting an S2.
I need the S community to share with me whatever pertinent knowledge I need to make a solid, informed decision as to which year S2 to get and why. Any/all information that I may have gathered I need you all to confirm or correct.
I believe it is mid 2002 that Honda changed/upgraded the banjo bolts? Is this correct? I believe they went from 2-4 holes. How would I go about knowing if I were to get an 02 if this has been done?
I believe that 00-02 had the plastic rear window, correct? So 03 and up have the glass rear window, but what other differences are there between the 00-03's that I should take in to consideration?
And I have heard many different things regarding the tranny issues. What are they and when were they corrected? 03+? I have also heard that all S2's from 00-03 are the same, with the 04+ being the "better" ones.
I am generally familiar with the major differences between the AP1 and 2, from aesthetics to motor, its just looking like due to financial constraints I will have to get an 03. Well, I would rather have an 03 or 02 with substantially lower miles than getting and 04+ with excessive mileage.
Thats all I can really think of right now. Please share with me anything you all think I need to know. I have gotten such conflicting information that I want to clear it all up before I go spending my money. Thanks.
I need the S community to share with me whatever pertinent knowledge I need to make a solid, informed decision as to which year S2 to get and why. Any/all information that I may have gathered I need you all to confirm or correct.
I believe it is mid 2002 that Honda changed/upgraded the banjo bolts? Is this correct? I believe they went from 2-4 holes. How would I go about knowing if I were to get an 02 if this has been done?
I believe that 00-02 had the plastic rear window, correct? So 03 and up have the glass rear window, but what other differences are there between the 00-03's that I should take in to consideration?
And I have heard many different things regarding the tranny issues. What are they and when were they corrected? 03+? I have also heard that all S2's from 00-03 are the same, with the 04+ being the "better" ones.
I am generally familiar with the major differences between the AP1 and 2, from aesthetics to motor, its just looking like due to financial constraints I will have to get an 03. Well, I would rather have an 03 or 02 with substantially lower miles than getting and 04+ with excessive mileage.
Thats all I can really think of right now. Please share with me anything you all think I need to know. I have gotten such conflicting information that I want to clear it all up before I go spending my money. Thanks.
* B A N N E D *
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From: Orange County, CA, USA
Re: In need of information/clarification (PinoyShadow)
Honestly, go for an 04+. They can be had for around $20k nowadays, and will save you the trouble of checking up on TSB's and whatnots. As far as improvements between 00-03 and 04+ you get:
Better transmission, stronger rear end housing, brighter headlights, LED taillights, 17" wheels, redesigned interior with connections for rear speakers, a self-slipping clutch
, and a horde of cosmetic upgrades.
Better transmission, stronger rear end housing, brighter headlights, LED taillights, 17" wheels, redesigned interior with connections for rear speakers, a self-slipping clutch
, and a horde of cosmetic upgrades.
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Re: In need of information/clarification (Mr. Projekt)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. Projekt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Honestly, go for an 04+. They can be had for around $20k nowadays, and will save you the trouble of checking up on TSB's and whatnots. As far as improvements between 00-03 and 04+ you get:
Better transmission, stronger rear end housing, brighter headlights, LED taillights, 17" wheels, redesigned interior with connections for rear speakers, a self-slipping clutch , and a horde of cosmetic upgrades.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would love to bro, but from my looking around on Autotrader andl local dealers, it just doesn't seem fesible.
Can you elaborate on the "TSB's"?
Better transmission: how/why? (same question for "stronger rear end housing").
Brighter headlights? Did you they increase the output? From what to what?
I don't care so much for the LED tails, I kind of like the AP1 tails.
And what are you referring to when you say "a self-slipping clutch"??
Better transmission, stronger rear end housing, brighter headlights, LED taillights, 17" wheels, redesigned interior with connections for rear speakers, a self-slipping clutch
, and a horde of cosmetic upgrades.</TD></TR></TABLE>I would love to bro, but from my looking around on Autotrader andl local dealers, it just doesn't seem fesible.
Can you elaborate on the "TSB's"?
Better transmission: how/why? (same question for "stronger rear end housing").
Brighter headlights? Did you they increase the output? From what to what?
I don't care so much for the LED tails, I kind of like the AP1 tails.
And what are you referring to when you say "a self-slipping clutch"??
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From: Narnia
Re: In need of information/clarification (PinoyShadow)
tsb=technical service bulletin. http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showforum=145
rear differential on ap1 is weak and tends to break when high rpm launches are made on it. ap2 is a bit beefier with a slightly bigger housing and stronger bolts.
transmission is buttery smooth on ap2 while ap1 tends to be a little notchy
self-slipping clutch=CDV or clutch delay valve. it delays rpm drop (i think) when you shift.
rear differential on ap1 is weak and tends to break when high rpm launches are made on it. ap2 is a bit beefier with a slightly bigger housing and stronger bolts.
transmission is buttery smooth on ap2 while ap1 tends to be a little notchy
self-slipping clutch=CDV or clutch delay valve. it delays rpm drop (i think) when you shift.
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Re: In need of information/clarification (LAS2K)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LAS2K »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tsb=technical service bulletin. http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showforum=145
rear differential on ap1 is weak and tends to break when high rpm launches are made on it. ap2 is a bit beefier with a slightly bigger housing and stronger bolts.
transmission is buttery smooth on ap2 while ap1 tends to be a little notchy
self-slipping clutch=CDV or clutch delay valve. it delays rpm drop (i think) when you shift.</TD></TR></TABLE>
on the TSB link. Rear housing is made of a stronger alloy with beefed up bearing caps. CDV delays clutch engagement.
rear differential on ap1 is weak and tends to break when high rpm launches are made on it. ap2 is a bit beefier with a slightly bigger housing and stronger bolts.
transmission is buttery smooth on ap2 while ap1 tends to be a little notchy
self-slipping clutch=CDV or clutch delay valve. it delays rpm drop (i think) when you shift.</TD></TR></TABLE>
on the TSB link. Rear housing is made of a stronger alloy with beefed up bearing caps. CDV delays clutch engagement.
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From: Jacksonville, FL, USA
Hoo boy...the ap2 fanbois are out. 
Drive both...buy the one you like. Some find they can feel a big difference between the two and have strong preferences either way.
'02 was first year for glass rear window
AP2 transmissions have carbon synchros but after driving several of both ap1 & ap2 I never noticed a difference so wouldn't have known unless someone told me there was a synchro difference. The carbon synchros may last longer.
AP2 diffs are stronger...how much stronger is debateable. If you were to look at the carrier caps side by side you would see why. I'd like to see some definitive proof about different alloy claim...it's been passed around for a while, I haven't seen anyone show anything close to proof (there are a lot of myths floating around about differences between the ap1 & ap2). Most ap1 diffs blow from poor and frequent launches. The ap2's clutch delay valve helps protect its diff from similar abuse. The ap2 diff does have more oil passages to the pinion.
AP2 clutch delay valve is a nusance to some. Others get used to it or remove it. It's not that hard to remove if it is a bother.
AP2 17 rims are nice to have. There aren't many high performance tires to choose from for a 16" rim.
Drive both...buy the one you like. Some find they can feel a big difference between the two and have strong preferences either way.
'02 was first year for glass rear window
AP2 transmissions have carbon synchros but after driving several of both ap1 & ap2 I never noticed a difference so wouldn't have known unless someone told me there was a synchro difference. The carbon synchros may last longer.
AP2 diffs are stronger...how much stronger is debateable. If you were to look at the carrier caps side by side you would see why. I'd like to see some definitive proof about different alloy claim...it's been passed around for a while, I haven't seen anyone show anything close to proof (there are a lot of myths floating around about differences between the ap1 & ap2). Most ap1 diffs blow from poor and frequent launches. The ap2's clutch delay valve helps protect its diff from similar abuse. The ap2 diff does have more oil passages to the pinion.
AP2 clutch delay valve is a nusance to some. Others get used to it or remove it. It's not that hard to remove if it is a bother.
AP2 17 rims are nice to have. There aren't many high performance tires to choose from for a 16" rim.
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Re: (negcamber)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by negcamber »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hoo boy...the ap2 fanbois are out.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've always been an AP2 fanboy. The diff facts were from Billman or RoadRace on S2ki, I forget which.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've always been an AP2 fanboy. The diff facts were from Billman or RoadRace on S2ki, I forget which.
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From: Narnia
Re: (Mr. Projekt)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. Projekt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The diff facts were from Billman or RoadRace on S2ki, I forget which.</TD></TR></TABLE>
close but no cigar. stratocastor aka ricks accessories.
ap2 fanboy that owns an ap1 right here
close but no cigar. stratocastor aka ricks accessories.
ap2 fanboy that owns an ap1 right here
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From: Jacksonville, FL, USA
Re: (LAS2K)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LAS2K »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
close but no cigar. stratocastor aka ricks accessories.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup...and he doesn't say that there is uber-alloy in the ap2 diff.
One of the other myths I heard was that the ap2 seats are wider than the ap1. I'd heard it a couple of times and finally I called a fanboi on it...happened to have a tape measure in my trunk and right there in front of him measured to show they were the same. Only difference in 00-03 and 04-05 seats is the leather supplier...the foam structure is the same part number. Now the cabin of the ap2 is wider due to a change in the door panel design...lets wider folks be more comfortable I guess.
close but no cigar. stratocastor aka ricks accessories.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup...and he doesn't say that there is uber-alloy in the ap2 diff.
One of the other myths I heard was that the ap2 seats are wider than the ap1. I'd heard it a couple of times and finally I called a fanboi on it...happened to have a tape measure in my trunk and right there in front of him measured to show they were the same. Only difference in 00-03 and 04-05 seats is the leather supplier...the foam structure is the same part number. Now the cabin of the ap2 is wider due to a change in the door panel design...lets wider folks be more comfortable I guess.
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Re: (negcamber)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by negcamber »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hoo boy...the ap2 fanbois are out.
Drive both...buy the one you like. Some find they can feel a big difference between the two and have strong preferences either way.
'02 was first year for glass rear window
AP2 transmissions have carbon synchros but after driving several of both ap1 & ap2 I never noticed a difference so wouldn't have known unless someone told me there was a synchro difference. The carbon synchros may last longer.
AP2 diffs are stronger...how much stronger is debateable. If you were to look at the carrier caps side by side you would see why. I'd like to see some definitive proof about different alloy claim...it's been passed around for a while, I haven't seen anyone show anything close to proof (there are a lot of myths floating around about differences between the ap1 & ap2). Most ap1 diffs blow from poor and frequent launches. The ap2's clutch delay valve helps protect its diff from similar abuse. The ap2 diff does have more oil passages to the pinion.
AP2 clutch delay valve is a nusance to some. Others get used to it or remove it. It's not that hard to remove if it is a bother.
AP2 17 rims are nice to have. There aren't many high performance tires to choose from for a 16" rim.</TD></TR></TABLE>
OK, now I really appreciate the technical answers bro.
So, glass rear window question cleared up.
I wasn't aware of the synchro difference, so thank you for that. Do the AP1's have a problem with synchro's going out/grinding (or even locking up)? The car will not see "speed shifting" or similiarly damaging shifting, just good clean driving and fun.
"Most ap1 diffs blow from poor and frequent launches." I do not/will not launch the vehicle frequently, if at all, so should I still be concerned with this happening if the car is driven conservatively the high majority of the time? (if/when I do push the vehicle, it will be from a roll such as in traffic or in the canyons, not launching at a light)
Cluch Delay Valve I don't care for. Although nice to have, I like the more "raw" driving experience (in this sense) provided by the AP1. (I have been in both)
"The ap2 diff does have more oil passages to the pinion." Is this referring to the banjo bolts going from 2 to 4 holes? If so, when was this rectified (perhaps "improved upon" would be the better terminology)? Mid 02 is what I have heard. If this is true, is there a way to identify which 02's had it done? Either via the VIN number or perhaps some kind of date-stamp on the sticker in the doorjamb?? And have there been any effects of any kind regarding the S2's with the lesser of the oil passages? Longevity issues? Anything (bad or good)?
Drive both...buy the one you like. Some find they can feel a big difference between the two and have strong preferences either way.
'02 was first year for glass rear window
AP2 transmissions have carbon synchros but after driving several of both ap1 & ap2 I never noticed a difference so wouldn't have known unless someone told me there was a synchro difference. The carbon synchros may last longer.
AP2 diffs are stronger...how much stronger is debateable. If you were to look at the carrier caps side by side you would see why. I'd like to see some definitive proof about different alloy claim...it's been passed around for a while, I haven't seen anyone show anything close to proof (there are a lot of myths floating around about differences between the ap1 & ap2). Most ap1 diffs blow from poor and frequent launches. The ap2's clutch delay valve helps protect its diff from similar abuse. The ap2 diff does have more oil passages to the pinion.
AP2 clutch delay valve is a nusance to some. Others get used to it or remove it. It's not that hard to remove if it is a bother.
AP2 17 rims are nice to have. There aren't many high performance tires to choose from for a 16" rim.</TD></TR></TABLE>
OK, now I really appreciate the technical answers bro.
So, glass rear window question cleared up.
I wasn't aware of the synchro difference, so thank you for that. Do the AP1's have a problem with synchro's going out/grinding (or even locking up)? The car will not see "speed shifting" or similiarly damaging shifting, just good clean driving and fun.
"Most ap1 diffs blow from poor and frequent launches." I do not/will not launch the vehicle frequently, if at all, so should I still be concerned with this happening if the car is driven conservatively the high majority of the time? (if/when I do push the vehicle, it will be from a roll such as in traffic or in the canyons, not launching at a light)
Cluch Delay Valve I don't care for. Although nice to have, I like the more "raw" driving experience (in this sense) provided by the AP1. (I have been in both)
"The ap2 diff does have more oil passages to the pinion." Is this referring to the banjo bolts going from 2 to 4 holes? If so, when was this rectified (perhaps "improved upon" would be the better terminology)? Mid 02 is what I have heard. If this is true, is there a way to identify which 02's had it done? Either via the VIN number or perhaps some kind of date-stamp on the sticker in the doorjamb?? And have there been any effects of any kind regarding the S2's with the lesser of the oil passages? Longevity issues? Anything (bad or good)?
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From: Orange County, CA, USA
Re: (PinoyShadow)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PinoyShadow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
"The ap2 diff does have more oil passages to the pinion." Is this referring to the banjo bolts going from 2 to 4 holes? If so, when was this rectified (perhaps "improved upon" would be the better terminology)? Mid 02 is what I have heard. If this is true, is there a way to identify which 02's had it done? Either via the VIN number or perhaps some kind of date-stamp on the sticker in the doorjamb??</TD></TR></TABLE>
The banjo bolts are for the oil squirters in the block, not in the diff. The oil passages to the pinion that were mentioned are to lube the ring gear/pinion contact in the diff.
"The ap2 diff does have more oil passages to the pinion." Is this referring to the banjo bolts going from 2 to 4 holes? If so, when was this rectified (perhaps "improved upon" would be the better terminology)? Mid 02 is what I have heard. If this is true, is there a way to identify which 02's had it done? Either via the VIN number or perhaps some kind of date-stamp on the sticker in the doorjamb??</TD></TR></TABLE>
The banjo bolts are for the oil squirters in the block, not in the diff. The oil passages to the pinion that were mentioned are to lube the ring gear/pinion contact in the diff.
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From: Jacksonville, FL, USA
Re: (PinoyShadow)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PinoyShadow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I wasn't aware of the synchro difference, so thank you for that. Do the AP1's have a problem with synchro's going out/grinding (or even locking up)? The car will not see "speed shifting" or similiarly damaging shifting, just good clean driving and fun.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, quite a few of us have found it is easy to accidently beat the synchros and grind. AP1s are older and have seen more shifts and more grinds...shop carefully as you would with any car. Also, both ap1 & and ap2 trannies get knotchy when the tranny oil gets old. I never let mine go more than 10k or a year without changing.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PinoyShadow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I do not/will not launch the vehicle frequently, if at all, so should I still be concerned with this happening if the car is driven conservatively the high majority of the time?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You should be fine then.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PinoyShadow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Cluch Delay Valve I don't care for. Although nice to have, I like the more "raw" driving experience (in this sense) provided by the AP1. (I have been in both)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The ap1 does feel more raw. The clutch delay can be easily removed by anyone with average mechanical skills however. It really does not take much to make an ap2 feel as raw as an ap1 with a few mods. And there are some raq aspects of the ap1 that aren't so nice. Definitely look into a bump steer kit for the ap1 to help steady the car on bumpy roads (Megan has a decent J's knock-off for under $200). Also make sure the rear tires are 245/45-16 if they are not the oem S02...this is the most frequent mistake that causes increased dangerous oversteer.
I wasn't aware of the synchro difference, so thank you for that. Do the AP1's have a problem with synchro's going out/grinding (or even locking up)? The car will not see "speed shifting" or similiarly damaging shifting, just good clean driving and fun.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, quite a few of us have found it is easy to accidently beat the synchros and grind. AP1s are older and have seen more shifts and more grinds...shop carefully as you would with any car. Also, both ap1 & and ap2 trannies get knotchy when the tranny oil gets old. I never let mine go more than 10k or a year without changing.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PinoyShadow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I do not/will not launch the vehicle frequently, if at all, so should I still be concerned with this happening if the car is driven conservatively the high majority of the time?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You should be fine then.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PinoyShadow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Cluch Delay Valve I don't care for. Although nice to have, I like the more "raw" driving experience (in this sense) provided by the AP1. (I have been in both)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The ap1 does feel more raw. The clutch delay can be easily removed by anyone with average mechanical skills however. It really does not take much to make an ap2 feel as raw as an ap1 with a few mods. And there are some raq aspects of the ap1 that aren't so nice. Definitely look into a bump steer kit for the ap1 to help steady the car on bumpy roads (Megan has a decent J's knock-off for under $200). Also make sure the rear tires are 245/45-16 if they are not the oem S02...this is the most frequent mistake that causes increased dangerous oversteer.
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Re: (negcamber)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by negcamber »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well, quite a few of us have found it is easy to accidently beat the synchros and grind. AP1s are older and have seen more shifts and more grinds...shop carefully as you would with any car. Also, both ap1 & and ap2 trannies get knotchy when the tranny oil gets old. I never let mine go more than 10k or a year without changing.
I see. If I do purchase one, I intend to be tedious in the process. And I have made a note regarding the tranny fluid.
The ap1 does feel more raw. The clutch delay can be easily removed by anyone with average mechanical skills however. It really does not take much to make an ap2 feel as raw as an ap1 with a few mods. And there are some raq aspects of the ap1 that aren't so nice. Definitely look into a bump steer kit for the ap1 to help steady the car on bumpy roads (Megan has a decent J's knock-off for under $200). Also make sure the rear tires are 245/45-16 if they are not the oem S02...this is the most frequent mistake that causes increased dangerous oversteer.
I haven't read/heard anything about the need for a "bump steer kit", so I will look in to that (and NO knock-off parts will be the car, none)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks again. What about this though: In regards to the banjo bolts in the motor going from 2-4 holes for more oil... <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when was this rectified (perhaps "improved upon" would be the better terminology)? Mid 02 is what I have heard. If this is true, is there a way to identify which 02's had it done? Either via the VIN number or perhaps some kind of date-stamp on the sticker in the doorjamb?? And have there been any effects of any kind regarding the S2's with the lesser of the oil passages? Longevity issues? Anything (bad or good)?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, quite a few of us have found it is easy to accidently beat the synchros and grind. AP1s are older and have seen more shifts and more grinds...shop carefully as you would with any car. Also, both ap1 & and ap2 trannies get knotchy when the tranny oil gets old. I never let mine go more than 10k or a year without changing.
I see. If I do purchase one, I intend to be tedious in the process. And I have made a note regarding the tranny fluid.
The ap1 does feel more raw. The clutch delay can be easily removed by anyone with average mechanical skills however. It really does not take much to make an ap2 feel as raw as an ap1 with a few mods. And there are some raq aspects of the ap1 that aren't so nice. Definitely look into a bump steer kit for the ap1 to help steady the car on bumpy roads (Megan has a decent J's knock-off for under $200). Also make sure the rear tires are 245/45-16 if they are not the oem S02...this is the most frequent mistake that causes increased dangerous oversteer.
I haven't read/heard anything about the need for a "bump steer kit", so I will look in to that (and NO knock-off parts will be the car, none)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks again. What about this though: In regards to the banjo bolts in the motor going from 2-4 holes for more oil... <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when was this rectified (perhaps "improved upon" would be the better terminology)? Mid 02 is what I have heard. If this is true, is there a way to identify which 02's had it done? Either via the VIN number or perhaps some kind of date-stamp on the sticker in the doorjamb?? And have there been any effects of any kind regarding the S2's with the lesser of the oil passages? Longevity issues? Anything (bad or good)?</TD></TR></TABLE>
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From: Jacksonville, FL, USA
Re: (PinoyShadow)
If the engine serial # is after 1025386 then it has the new banjos. To find the serial #, stand looking into engine bay from the front of the car. The plate is located near the front of the engine just to the right of the valve cover, behind the belt tensioner pulley.
Here are instructions on upgrading if you need them:
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/ind...02067
BTW...for the tranny oil, the new Honda MTL formulation is really good. Better than the GM Synchromesh IMHO...and way better than the old Honda MTL.
As Projekt mentions...the AP2 does not suffer bump steer. There are a few BSKs available. Your choice on J's ($350), TCDesign ($450), or Megan ($175). I have the TCD only because I was able to buy it for the same price as a J's and the Megan was not out at the time. I would buy the Megan today if I were needing to purchase a BSK. This is an item that few will ever see and probably none will ever notice. But you will feel the difference. Here is a thread discussing all three (but primarily focus on the Megan):
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/ind...44819
Note that one of the posters who tested the Megan is a mechanical engineer and determined that the Megan's quality is more than up to the task.
Here are instructions on upgrading if you need them:
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/ind...02067
BTW...for the tranny oil, the new Honda MTL formulation is really good. Better than the GM Synchromesh IMHO...and way better than the old Honda MTL.
As Projekt mentions...the AP2 does not suffer bump steer. There are a few BSKs available. Your choice on J's ($350), TCDesign ($450), or Megan ($175). I have the TCD only because I was able to buy it for the same price as a J's and the Megan was not out at the time. I would buy the Megan today if I were needing to purchase a BSK. This is an item that few will ever see and probably none will ever notice. But you will feel the difference. Here is a thread discussing all three (but primarily focus on the Megan):
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/ind...44819
Note that one of the posters who tested the Megan is a mechanical engineer and determined that the Megan's quality is more than up to the task.
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Re: (negcamber)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by negcamber »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the engine serial # is after 1025386 then it has the new banjos. To find the serial #, stand looking into engine bay from the front of the car. The plate is located near the front of the engine just to the right of the valve cover, behind the belt tensioner pulley.
Here are instructions on upgrading if you need them:
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/ind...02067
BTW...for the tranny oil, the new Honda MTL formulation is really good. Better than the GM Synchromesh IMHO...and way better than the old Honda MTL.
As Projekt mentions...the AP2 does not suffer bump steer. There are a few BSKs available. Your choice on J's ($350), TCDesign ($450), or Megan ($175). I have the TCD only because I was able to buy it for the same price as a J's and the Megan was not out at the time. I would buy the Megan today if I were needing to purchase a BSK. This is an item that few will ever see and probably none will ever notice. But you will feel the difference. Here is a thread discussing all three (but primarily focus on the Megan):
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/ind...44819
Note that one of the posters who tested the Megan is a mechanical engineer and determined that the Megan's quality is more than up to the task.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Now thats what I was hoping for. Thanks for the technical response(s), it is greatly appreciated.
Here are instructions on upgrading if you need them:
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/ind...02067
BTW...for the tranny oil, the new Honda MTL formulation is really good. Better than the GM Synchromesh IMHO...and way better than the old Honda MTL.
As Projekt mentions...the AP2 does not suffer bump steer. There are a few BSKs available. Your choice on J's ($350), TCDesign ($450), or Megan ($175). I have the TCD only because I was able to buy it for the same price as a J's and the Megan was not out at the time. I would buy the Megan today if I were needing to purchase a BSK. This is an item that few will ever see and probably none will ever notice. But you will feel the difference. Here is a thread discussing all three (but primarily focus on the Megan):
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/ind...44819
Note that one of the posters who tested the Megan is a mechanical engineer and determined that the Megan's quality is more than up to the task.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Now thats what I was hoping for. Thanks for the technical response(s), it is greatly appreciated.
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