Thats a good idea, i've just finished expanding the oil section,

Helms service manual.

Pennzoil (5lts) SAE 10W-30 $23.99
Castrol GTX Conventional 10W-30 Motor Oil ((5lts)) $18.99
Mobile1 10W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil (5lts) $37.79
OEM filter #15400-PCX-004 $14

I'll add trans, diff, and also drain bolt, washers, magnetic bolts, shop rags/pan..

Woot.. this is great, thanks for all the input guys

 

the hankooks, SS's, and re-11's are all close enough in performance that most of us would never be able to tell the difference in optimum conditions. however, when you factor in pricing and how quickly you can get to that condition, the kook's or SS's are a much better choice

 

i dont know yet....ive been out of the game for a while, i think i ran SMS with my integra, but nothing was stock on that car....ill have to look through the classifications again and go from there

 

the braces will knock you out of STR, which IMO is as fun of a class as there is before spending the big bucks for the real fast classes. its a fairly cheap class to prep for and is a blast to compete in.

 

thats the thing, im super competitive, so whatever class i run, i want to at least be able to have the chance to win it for the season lol

 

i would look through the STR prep thread on S2KI. feel free to PM me if you want to talk about it, but there are plenty more knowledgeable people there as well.

 

do you have a link to that thread? im not on s2ki...i have problems keeping up with just honda-tech

 

http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/7169...prep-resource/

 

Oem lips come painted. They're around $350-400 shipped new from Honda dealers on eBay.


RE050As are not all season. The A stands for asymmetrical. A "good" all season would be a Bridgestone Potenza RE960, or Michelin Pilot Sport AS+, Or maybe continental DWS.

The last time I bought OEM pads, the whole set from Honda was $125. It was cheaper or around the same price as parts store brands at the time. Honda has raised prices now though. But check www.hondaautomotiveparts.com or www.bernardiparts.com. Those are really good parts resources.

 

so i just read through almost the entire SCCA rule book and with my mods i already have and the ones im planning on doing i think im going to be running STX class

 

have fun, evos are going to rape your face lol. str has a better pax, but at least alot of the evos do run in STU

 

updated article

added a few things, thanks everyone for all the input. This is why i really dig working on stuff like this for the community. We actually give a **** about how we play with our toys

 

from what ive read, my test pipe automatically takes me out of STR

 

actually if you wish to lower the car and improve the suspension koni shocks have a dual perch so you can lower the car up to an inch with the stock springs.

The good thing about using the factory springs is the drivers side front is longer to compensate for the drivers weight unlike all off the shelf kits I have seen. Check the static wheel gap on your lowered car and you will see it's about 1/2 inch difference on that corner I get rub on that one or used to.

This will also help retain the factory corner weights.

If you must use springs use eibach or other quality german or tuv certified springs not race stiff junk from taiwan. The rates change and the ride will be overly harsh which along with the negative effects of adjusting your roll centers will make the car far less capable overall.

SPC ball joints not only fix your roll centers but allow for wide front tires without rubbing and without stupid amounts of camber.

For brakes decent pads are fine as is dot 5.1 motul but if you are going to replace the rotors buy the cryo treated brembos they will last alot longer.

 

DOT 5.1 brake fluid is for show cars that dont see a lot of driving...5.1 brake fluid absorbs water at an extremely high rate and should be left alone unless youre changing the fluid every month...DOT 4 is more than sufficient for street driving and tracking

 

well i want to stay away from koni's, a lot of mods can be done here but i also want to keep it very basic, and cheap.. i have already started building a "n/a advanced" build, which does have koni's, 4.56/4.77 gears, and testing..

 

DOT 5.1? Motul? For just occasional tracking and street driving? Insanity! You don't need any aftermarket fluid at all for autocross. Don't act like the S2000's that fast.

How do ball joints allow you to use wider tires but not have to run more negative camber? Unless you're getting upper and lower adjustable ball joints and just adjusting the whole spindle inwards? Why is camber bad? I run like -2.5 degrees up front and -3.3 out back....and I use the whole tire. Drive more aggresively. Use the tire. Err...on the track, obviously.

Cryo treated rotors? Man...you sure like to spend that $$ unnecessarily. I use advance auto $35 rotors. They work great. If they crack...they have a 2 year warranty. I won't spend money on rotors. I will destroy pretty much any mass market rotor. What's the point of getting expensive ones? I track my car heavily. Rotors are a cheap, disposable part. For street-only cars....why the hell would anyone want/need cryo rotors? Stock stuff works more than fine on the street.

 

^ always so serious. oh wait..

 

I'll add, change your oil to a synthetic 0w-20.

 

Meh. 10W-30 Conventional works fine for me. When my car blows up from all the track abuse at 150k miles, I'll be able to buy myself a new motor with all the money I saved on oil! Great success!

 

maybe if you live on the equator...thats way too thin of an oil to run in this motor, but good luck if thats what you run

 

kk, now to just to finish writing this tonight and start the "advanced s2000 build" hehe

 

whoah.. a intelligent conversation.. gg honda-tech

 

Not that I'm Mr. Super autocross, but I'm doing an AP1 STR build also. I did run my former car, Mazda RX8 in STX...

My question is this: how are you going to run the S2K in STX: a class for 4 seat coupes and sedans? To my knowledge, its not eligible.

Running catless takes you out of ALL street classes. Removing the cat automatically puts you into prepared.

Berk high-flow cat. Or since you already have the test pipe, you could buy a High flow cat and have an exhaust shop weld it in for you.

 

see thats the thing...when i had my integra, i was in SM and i could tell you everything you need to know about that class...i have no idea what-so-ever as far as what my S would run or what that class would even restrict...right now all i have is an intake, that test pipe, and tein flex's, but i am planning to do a good amount of suspension work before march when the new season starts up