Hey guys... JDM H22A in a 92 Si.

So I took my car to work this morning. Ran great. Come out from work to come home, and it won't start. It cranks over, but no catch. Weirdest thing = When I try to turn it over, the "Brake" light come on on the dash, even when I'm not pressing the brake. Does anyone have ANY idea what's up with this?

It's not the main relay, I just replaced it last year.

 

The brake light shouldn't come on when your foot is on the brake, it is for when the handbrake is up, or is you are low on brake fluid.

Is the car auto or manual?

 

It is an automatic... I guess my point of saying that was that it only comes on when you try to turn it over. It's not there with the other auxiliary lights, and having the brake depressed doesn't effect it.

Somebody help please! This is a rather new motor from hmotorsonline. The install was done by a very reliable guy. It ran fantastic until today!

 

I would try replaceing your distributor, honda are known for there dizzy cores sh**ing the bed all the time. To check pull out ya spark plugs and look for a spark when u or a friend trys to crank it over... if they don't u need a new dizzy or clean and repalce the core and it should fire right up!

 

if you know your main relay is fine i would check the fuses. ignition fuses in some cases will not stop the starter from working but break the circuit in the fuel injectors and for the ignition. if those fuses check out then i would suspect the distributor. most people replace their whole distributor, but i have replaced the igniter and the coil a few times in the same distributor. and used it for years. most cases its the coil and that only runs you like $50. the igniter is a lot more expensive. if you can get a hold of a multimeter i would have no problem helping you with the testing of the components in the distributor. good luck

 

more than likely spark.. easy way to tell is just take out plug wire and connect a spark plug to it then get in the car and turn it over.. if you see spark then look in the fuel system if there is not any spark then it is a cap, rotor, or coil problem.. this is just a very easy way to do it.. it may not be the best but it works

 

something i do not know about this cars... do you have to have your foot on the brake to start it??

 

on automatic configurations its usually that way. on manuals there is a switch on the clutch pedal. what he is observing actually has nothing to do with his problem. the brake indicator light usually goes away after the car starts. it could also be the sensor in the parking brake (hand brake)

 

i know about the clutch switch (have mine disabled on my mazda) but i thought for sure i have started many cars without putting my foot on the brake..

 

it varies from one make to another. on my fiancee's 2004 cavalier it does not require the brake to be pressed in order to start the car. my folks have a 85 Volkswagon golf that would never start unless in park and pressing the brake pedal

 

Okay, So... Took it in to a shop to make things easy, and it was the distributor. It's a bia, because it was a JDM internal coil. It would have taken forever to source one. So, I'm having him convert it to external coil. = Very expensive. He got it all together today, ran great for 5 minutes, and the new distributor went bad. Could there be something externally that is causing the dizzies to keep failing?

 

Ahh man, what a waste of time..... you should of just ordered a distributor from Distributorking.com. BEST PRICES HANDS DOWN!
It would of been wise to just keep the internal coil setup. You could possibly have a bad electric load detector or you have a higher rated fuse on that circuit than what its supposed to be... that is, if all your wiring is up to par. Which also means all your grounds are okay. If they used a re manufactured unit, then its no wonder because those things fail all the time. My buddy had one from a local shop and it failed within a month. Lastly, check your alternator to make sure its not producing too much power.

 

Aww... Where were you earlier this week? lol. Well, what's been done has been done. My little sister actually has the car 200 miles away, but it was just easier to describe everything in the first person initially. I wasn't the to fix it myself, which is even more sad.

 

Any more ideas? This car is sitting 400 miles away from my swap guy. This sucks, pretty bad.

 

Who knows anything about labor laws? This guy is charging me $917 for converting to external coil, new distributor. Still doesn't run. He's lying to me left and right. Why should I have to pay this guy for labor for something he couldn't fix? wtf... Help me out people. It would just be better to find a good shop that knows Hondas in the Winona, MN area...