Ok I put the timing belt on leaving no slack towards the front of the car but having little slack towards the back of the car. I then remove the bracket holding the hydraulic tensioner down and then it tightens it up like it is soposed to then I turn the engine about 2-3 complete turns and still is tight. then I tighten down the bolts to the tensioner. then we start the engine and the belt starts slapping. we turn it off and the belt has loosend on the front side of the car. we pulled the belt off 3 times and still isnt working. yes I called honda and made sure it was the right belt. this is a new belt. and we are guessing the hydraulic tensioner is bad now. What do you guys think? Also I was reading a little note in the valvespring box that came with the skunk2 valvesprings and it says " we reccomend using the h23 non hydraulic tensioner when using the springs" Any 1 know why to that answer? Maybe because of the hydro tensioner craps out after time from highreving.

 

I would take their advise. I have been reading all morning about how you should do a switch. I think I am going to do the switch with a PE super strong belt. I just had mine snap last night.

 

it's because the springs are harder to open than OEM, and this puts more strain on the belt. Since the auto-tensioner is set for a predetermined amount.. it's going to give some and could lead to slack

 

oh and a side note, did you ever take yours in to get the auto-tensioner replaced under the TSB.. or was that a recall... ? I'm thinking a TSB. anyhow honda updated the design because like mine did at around 65,000, you start hearing this noise at like idle... it's the belt "slapping". I got my whole assembly replaced for free, just had to pay for the belt

 

From what I understand from Honda and some other people, its a good idea to replace the tensioner with the timing belt. Something about it messing up after it loses tension for a while.
But it should only happen if the tensioner is a used. I mean, if you only have like 10k on the tensioner it should still be ok, but any more than that, I would replace it.

Thats actually what happen to Todds I believe when his motor self destructed the first time. The reused the older tensioner, and it jumped time shortly after.

 

I have heard that the spring in the tensioner can break. To collapse the tensioner, you have to take the plug out the bottom and turn the screw/spring assembly with a flat blade screwdriver. When you do this is there spring pressure? If not, then you may need a new tensioner. You Can take the tensioner apart and check for abnormal wear or a broken spring. Keep track of the spring position and the order of the parts. (hint: use a bearing puller to remove the dust boot.) Does the bearing pivot freely on that funny looking bolt? Also, you tightened the "maintenance bolt" right? If you leave this bolt backed out the tensioner won't work. Can't think of anything else to check off the top of my head. I've kept the spring tensioner on several H22's without problems. On the tensioner I'm running right now, I opened it up and gave the spring an extra turn. So basically it is a little stiffer. This seemed to reduce belt flap, but use this info at your own risk.