my h22 motor just gave up on me, must be rods or bearings. i'm planning to buy an all motor, street strip, stroker kit for it off of pocketrocketsracing.com for $2698.80. i need some help. here are some of the features:
1) ISO9001 Certified 4340 chromoly billet steel crankshaft (100mm stroke / 55mm main).
2) 4340 forged H beam steel connecting rods rated at max 650+HP.
3) Outstanding CP custom 2618 aluminum forged pistons made to order, incorporating 9310 nickel carbon steel alloy wrist pins, Ductile iron plasma top rings, tapered second ring, low tension oil rings. Some bore sizes are in stock, check with us for availability. Giving you the choice of the exact bore size and compression ratio requires a made to order Piston set,most require 3-5 weeks to manufacture.
4) Fully system balanced and ready to install.
planning bore size of 89mm and compression ratio of 12.5:1.
questions:
do i just get the kit and bring it to my local performance machine shop? will that be all the things i need? around how much will it cost me to put it in? please advise about doing so. thanks.

 

no
just bring it to a machine shop and tell them to balance and blue print the entire engine and let them order the bearings for it, just tell them what type to go with. acl,oem,etc you could do the final assembly, it would be cheaper and you will have the peice of mind that all of the tolorances are good

 

why do i have to order the bearings? doesn't it come with the kit? it says ready to install. what do you means by "acl,oem,etc you could do the final assembly"? i don't think i'll be able to do it by myself. the engine is still mounted to the car. plus, i live in a apartment and have no place and tools. how much will it cost me to have them do it? please suggest. thanks.

 

damn.have a shop remove the engine and send the engine to pocket rocket and let him install the stroker kit.

 

yeah, let Frank do the work. he's the man

 

Get the lightest connecting rods you can if you're going all motor. That stroker crankshaft won't want to rev as high as the stock, especially with heavier rods.

 

does your town have some good gas?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AzCivic1.6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does your town have some good gas?</TD></TR></TABLE>
im with him on this one

 

wouldn't it cost me more having the engine being sent back and forth plus labor? you think pocket rocket would do a better job? is the extra expense worth it?

and about the lighter stroker kit, wouldn't it break down easier? this one also says it's able to do 9000+rpm. if it's not good, i'll go with the NA one. please advise.

and my town's gas is not that good i think. there's probably a few gas station out there that carries 93 octane. if they don't then i'll just add a bottle of octane booster everytime i pump gas.

 

You plan on shelling out another grand to sleeve that block to run those forged pistons right?

You really could do a hell of a lot better with the money your about blow on this stroker kit....

 

yeah my thoughts exactly. sleeves, lighter rods, 12-13:1 slugs, cams, headwork...........i mean dont get me wrong, stroker kit is a good ideal, but if you are on a budget and thats all you are looking at, you can get more elsewhere for your buck

 

i gotta pay to get the job done right but trying to look for the best deal. what do you mean i could do a lot better with my money? i gotta get the stroker kit to get my seized engine running. i don't wanna swap back to a stock h22 and get smoke by cobras and trans ams. i also don't wanna go turbo or nitrous. it's not that reliable.

 

First off you dont even know whats wrong with your car. How can you say for sure it's a rod or bearings? You dont rub off as being mechanically inclined enough to make that call yourself (I'm not criticizing that at all) so who knows what to expect inside the motor when they go to install this stroker kit? There could be a lot more damage than you're assuming (or maybe none at all) and it could require a few grand more in repairs or a few grand more into a new longblock.

And BTW, Cobra's and Trans Ams will STILL own you. A 230hp I-4 isnt going to pace a 300+hp V8 unless you put a really good driver behind the wheel of the 'lude.

 

why i think it's the bearings or rods because it won't crank manually anymore (it's locked up). i'm just praying there's no damage inside. if there is, hell, i'll just get a new one and put the stroker kit in it.

i've seen turbo H22 done it before. even with M3 on the highway. why not possible with a stroker kit?

 

turbo and na are 2 different games. big displacement will still make you grab your ankles, if you are still N/A with the h22. I think there are only a hand full of people on this forum that have acheived over 250hp NA to the wheels even with a stroker kit, even then unless your car is 2000lbs your still going to get your *** handed to you by a cobra.

With that stroker kit i see it has 55mm mains for the crank, make sure you have a block thats 97+ or you just bought yourself a paperweight.

 

with that kinda compression, i would suggest finding a well known tuner. What engine management are you going to use?

personally i think a 230whp lude could easily take out any NA stock v8 (within the 300hp rated motors), but i really hate bench racing as there is no point and you cant prove anything unless you do it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B.Rabbit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with that kinda compression, i would suggest finding a well known tuner. What engine management are you going to use?

personally i think a 230whp lude could easily take out any NA stock v8 (within the 300hp rated motors), but i really hate bench racing as there is no point and you cant prove anything unless you do it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i agree, the stock v8's aren't much to contend with. take a little weight off the lude and add a final drive and then see who will own who.

Does the cost of the stroker kit include sleeving? if so thats not a bad price. Laskey Racing also has a package thats pretty good, but its not a stroker motor.

 

i have pretty much hope that there's no damage in the engine. about the compression, i'm planning to do 12.5:1. i might have the shop tune it if i have the shop do the installations. otherwise i let pocket rockets racing do it. i'm planning to get the hondata s300 though. but 230whp for na is also different from 230whp turbo. why do i have to get a 97+ block. aren't the 92-96 block better with cooling and sleevings? correct me if i'm wrong.

 

Because the kit comes with a 55mm main journal crankshaft you are going to need a 98+ block which also have 55mm mains. 97 and down blocks have 50mm mains.

 

Heres what im talking about, the main journals are different in the 92-97 and the 98-01 blocks.


If they offer the kit with a 50mm crank, then you can use the 92-96 JDM block, which is closed deck and i believe thats the one you were talking about.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ge_itr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why i think it's the bearings or rods because it won't crank manually anymore (it's locked up). i'm just praying there's no damage inside. if there is, hell, i'll just get a new one and put the stroker kit in it.

i've seen turbo H22 done it before. even with M3 on the highway. why not possible with a stroker kit?</TD></TR></TABLE>
bent valves?

 

bent valves will still allow the bottom end to spin.

 

i believe the new crank is 55mm. i hope the valves aren't bent. if it is, i'll jus get a new v alve kit (sooner or later).

 

if my mains are 50mm and the new one is 55mm. will it fit? what customs do i have to do?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ge_itr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if my mains are 50mm and the new one is 55mm. will it fit? what customs do i have to do?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you would have to get the mains bored.