sh upper control arm base model control arm
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5
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From: Louisville, Ky
sh upper control arm base model control arm
hey guys,
so i just ordered a camber kit for my 97 base model prelude, and when doing so i ordered sh camber kit by mistake. i need to know if they will work on my base model prelude its the upper ball joint style camber kit
please guys need to know thanks for the help
so i just ordered a camber kit for my 97 base model prelude, and when doing so i ordered sh camber kit by mistake. i need to know if they will work on my base model prelude its the upper ball joint style camber kit
please guys need to know thanks for the help
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6,619
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From: Chicago
Re: sh upper control arm base model control arm (prelude_97)
I believe it'll work fine. They both should be using the same balljoint. Call up the manufacturer and ask if/what the difference is between the two.
Btw, I hope you're buying the camber kit to ADD camber.
Btw, I hope you're buying the camber kit to ADD camber.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Louisville, Ky
Re: sh upper control arm base model control arm (vinuneuro)
yeah, i just put on skunk2 coil overs, thanks i herd somewhere that they used two different control arms but i didnt find anything about it
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6,619
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From: Chicago
Re: sh upper control arm base model control arm (prelude_97)
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1991302
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> you wont need a camber kit. just get an alignment to set the toe.
the only "debate" of camber and toe tire wear is between those who understand tires and suspension and those who dont.
negative camber isnt a significant factor in tire wear. despite the seemingly obvious connection. tires wear by the amount of slip the rubber goes through as it transitions to and from contact with the pavement as it rolls. an incorrect toe setting will cause the tire to slip more, like the car was constantly turning as the tire shifts in direction between ground contact and back. an extreme example of tire slip in the fore-aft direction is doing a burnout. the effects of tire slip to tire wear is easy to comprehend. the same thing goes on in the lateral direction when the tire is forced to "turn" or twist at every revolution.
severe camber will not affect the tire slip nearly as much as it simply is flattening out in the normal direction a tire is designed to compress with no more tire slip than a regularly rolling tire. perhaps more on one side than the other. but consider also that the sidewalls flex and for most allowable camber angles still produce a contact patch full across the tread. even then, consider that a regular tire should last 30-60 thousand miles, especially if just rolling straight.
hondas in particular those with double wishbone suspension specifically control camber angles better than other cars and is also the reason why camber really isnt in need of "correction". in fact, negative camber is a good thing and to take away from it would take away from the great handling already designed in the suspension.
when a car is lowered, the ride height changes. when the ride height changes, the camber changes. when the camber changes, the toe changes. (it doesnt work in reverse) this is designed in the double wishbone suspension for better handling in the corners as the outside tire is loaded. therefore, when the ride height changes, the toe changes. and so the toe should be fixed.
for those who just put camber kits on after lowering, and then adjust them back to positive, also adjusted the toe back. so as a result, benefited in tire wear because the toe was changed closer to where it was previously. not because the camber was changed. even with a camber kit, a full alignment is still recommended, as theres no way to really to know where the camber or alignment really is. and its nonetheless important.
the only exception to the benefit of reducing negative camber is for those interested in maximizing straight line grip, as in drag racing. then you want as straight of a contact patch as possible, or something. </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> you wont need a camber kit. just get an alignment to set the toe.
the only "debate" of camber and toe tire wear is between those who understand tires and suspension and those who dont.
negative camber isnt a significant factor in tire wear. despite the seemingly obvious connection. tires wear by the amount of slip the rubber goes through as it transitions to and from contact with the pavement as it rolls. an incorrect toe setting will cause the tire to slip more, like the car was constantly turning as the tire shifts in direction between ground contact and back. an extreme example of tire slip in the fore-aft direction is doing a burnout. the effects of tire slip to tire wear is easy to comprehend. the same thing goes on in the lateral direction when the tire is forced to "turn" or twist at every revolution.
severe camber will not affect the tire slip nearly as much as it simply is flattening out in the normal direction a tire is designed to compress with no more tire slip than a regularly rolling tire. perhaps more on one side than the other. but consider also that the sidewalls flex and for most allowable camber angles still produce a contact patch full across the tread. even then, consider that a regular tire should last 30-60 thousand miles, especially if just rolling straight.
hondas in particular those with double wishbone suspension specifically control camber angles better than other cars and is also the reason why camber really isnt in need of "correction". in fact, negative camber is a good thing and to take away from it would take away from the great handling already designed in the suspension.
when a car is lowered, the ride height changes. when the ride height changes, the camber changes. when the camber changes, the toe changes. (it doesnt work in reverse) this is designed in the double wishbone suspension for better handling in the corners as the outside tire is loaded. therefore, when the ride height changes, the toe changes. and so the toe should be fixed.
for those who just put camber kits on after lowering, and then adjust them back to positive, also adjusted the toe back. so as a result, benefited in tire wear because the toe was changed closer to where it was previously. not because the camber was changed. even with a camber kit, a full alignment is still recommended, as theres no way to really to know where the camber or alignment really is. and its nonetheless important.
the only exception to the benefit of reducing negative camber is for those interested in maximizing straight line grip, as in drag racing. then you want as straight of a contact patch as possible, or something. </TD></TR></TABLE>
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