okay heres my situation, i have a rod knock and i want to know if i have to pull the whole crank out and get it resurfaced ORRR if i can put whichever piston that has play in it all the way at the bottom of the cranks cycle and pull it out and then proceed to put a new bearing on it and call it a day??? plz help cause i have to save money!

 

when you disassemble the block, take it to your machine shop and see what he says. I mean you're taking the crank out either way right? Asking an online forum (who doesn't see what you see) for their opinion and hoping for a correct answer is kinda foolish isn't it? I vote for letting the machinist decide.

 

well on a less insulting note what i'm trying to ask is if i can just rotate the crank IN the block to get whichever piston that has play in it all the way to the bottom of its cycle and then proceed to unbolt the bottom of the rod and put new rod bearings in it. The knocking isnt that bad yet, so i'm wondering if i should still take it to the machine shop...

 

I dont think rod knock is caused by a loose rod usually. Usually its from a bent rod, or something like that. I could be wrong. Plus its very difficult to remove the rod without taking out the block/ crank because the piston itself will not either come out, or will get stuck on the crank. The only way I can think of taking it apart with the block in the car is to take the piston out of the top, but depending on how many miles are on the motor, there might be a big ring groove at the top which will keep the piston stuck in the block unless its removed. If the groove isnt removed, then while taking out the piston by force will damage the block, and possibly destroy the pistons, or the piston rings.

 

nooooooo no no, i mean unbolting the bottom of the rod and pushing it up a little bit then putting new bearings in it and bolting it back on

 

70% of the time if it is knocking it is just the rod bearings. If your crank is not scored you can just replace them with the head off and the motor in the car. If your motor was run low on oil or something I would recommend doing the crank bearings too. Then you are going to have to pull the motor. What caused the knock BTW? What happened when it started?

 

wait im confused, why would i need the head off? wouldnt i have to take off the oil pan?

 

Yep that too. Take the head off so you can pull your pistons and rods out the top. If you are already going through the trouble throw new rings in it and a head gasket. Are you 100% sure you are hearing knock and not piston slap?

 

im not 100% sure but its a really high pitched, light sounding knocking...

and as for this guy above me...

YOUR A JACKASS I DONT CARE ABOUT YOUR GAY *** DODGE NEON Ive OWNED 2 CARS THAT WILL MAKE YOU **** YOUR PANTS

 

Have you had your valves adjusted recently? How many miles are on the motor? Does it smoke at all? Does it make noise at all times or is it under acceleration? When did it start doing this and what happened before it started?

 

Dude get out of here already. I don't know if your trying to make yourself feel better about the horrible situation you got yourself into by buying a volkwagon product or what. I have owned a few VAG cars and my parents both own an audi and a VW. There is nothing special about them and they are not reliable.

 

keep in mind the name of the site "honda-tech", why the hell would i put up any other brand cars?

 

gimme some info and we might be able to narrow down what is going on inside your motor.

 

okay lets see, no i just purchased the car so i have no idea if the valves were adjusted or not, motor has 113k it smokes a little yes, it makes noise under acceleration at all temps, it started doing it a couple days ago randomly while driving home

 

If it is a mld rod knock then you have a good chance of just replacing the rod bearing.

Un bolt the oil pan remove the oil pick up and baffle then the crank and rod bottoms are exposed. Turn the engine by hand and wiggle/move the rods side to side front to back. You will find the bad rod bearing this way. After you find the bad Rod bearings remove another rod cap to get the size of the bearing and order the replacements.

But if the rod bearing is really bad it will spin again.

 

Umm why the **** would you use a head spacer? ..... and ya your VW may be "reliable" tell that to the 4 that was in the shop recently... ya, and the cost to repair it is so extreme, and they arent that great, it isnt worth having... to bad you have your head shoved so high in you backside, that you would kno that not everything you see on youtube is wat it is in real life. body kits also dont weigh that much r-tard. Just get outta here, no one likes you, no one cares wat you have to rant about, go to VW forums and pretend to kno wat your doing over there instead. Leave this guys thread alone so USEFUL people can help him out

 

hey guys dont feed the troll plz
he will be banned soon

but yeah the best thing to do is take off the head(required if ur taking it to a machine shop or taking out the pistons
and take off the oil pan, pickup and the sheild
do what b&r said just wiggle the rods back and forth while turning the crank and see if there any play, if theres even a slight play the bearing are bad. at this point u might need a new crank/rods but if its not bad than its not required

than measure the bearings crank and may even want to plastigauge if ur uncertain their bad.

if they arethats ur problem, but its only ur problem its not the solution they can go bad again if ur oil pumpo is bad or somethign else

preludes are noctorius for rod knock though

 

**** okay so im gonna take off the headers and oil pan, then the head and rotate the crank while i wiggle the rods front to back or side to side? once i figure that out i unbolt the rod from the bottom and take out the bearings and check the crank/rod to see if they are screwed or not then proceed from there? am i right?


and this is for the "hondarulesvwallday" guy: you need a job, a girlfriend, and a Honda so you can experience life to the fullest because without those 3 things you will still be an insignificant jackass. have a good day of nothing

 

Just as a word of caution, mark the rods and caps in some way, I think a sharpie would work. You wanna mark one side of the cap and rod so that you can put them back together correctly. If you flip the cap by accident it will cause the crank to seize.

 

wait a sec. it would seize it!? damn okay so ill mark the part of the rod/cap that pointing to the front of the car

 

their marked from the factory buddy

 

Ok didnt kno that they were marked from the factory. The reason I said it is because the surfaces of the caps and rods are machined together, as mated surfaces, and for them to sit and work properly they have to be put on the same direction they were taken off. Ive seen it before where 3 of 4 main caps were put backwards... the motor wasnt able to freely turn over.

 

what motor
thats weird
all the motors ive taken apart had a dentation on them

my recent b16 had a number 2, half the 2 on top and half the 2 on bottom so u had to get the 2 correct and then it was fine

 

Yeah all the ones I've ever taken apart were stamped, unless aftermarket.

 

You dont need to remove the head to change the Rod bearings just the oil pan....
You can pull the spark plugs out to make the engine easier to turn by hand but pulling off the head to change rod bearings is just silly.

Ive done it a few times.