what would be the best way to go about checking the straightness of a valve? i dont want to spend the money on a set if they are all good and i just need to cut a new 45 degree on it. has anyone reused their old H22 valves in a freshly rebuilt head?

 

I'm surprised nobody has jumped all over this. I personally think this is a horrible idea, but I'm sure it can be done with the right equipment. The thing is, if you're asking about how to check the straightness....I can pretty much promise this is a pretty bad idea.

Buy some new ones. They're a cheap way to keep your mind at ease.

 

I am reusing my oem valves. take them to the machine shop and have them clean them and check for straitness also
the oem valves are heavier and stronger than alot of the aftermarket stuff out their. if you plan on putting 80,000+ miles on you engine then stick with oem.
but their is nothing wrong with changing them out for aftermarket ones. just make sure you go with a good company like fearra or super tech etc. that will warentee their product
and if you go oversized them you must go with aftermarket valves.
might have to change the retainers also

 

yea man, im sure a machine shop in your area would be able to do it for you for really cheap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1GPlusSH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm surprised nobody has jumped all over this. I personally think this is a horrible idea, but I'm sure it can be done with the right equipment. The thing is, if you're asking about how to check the straightness....I can pretty much promise this is a pretty bad idea.

Buy some new ones. They're a cheap way to keep your mind at ease.</TD></TR></TABLE>

inncorrect

sticking w/ oem valves is the best idea unless you are trying to squeeze avery last hp out of a 300+ whp race motor. they are stronger than aftermarket valves and are already "matching" your guides and seats. 90% of the time you wont need a valve job either, you can simply lap in the valves yourself. as far as cleaning them, you can simply use a bench grinder w/ a wire wheel, it works great.

now to check them for straightness it would be best to take them to a machine shop and they will spin them for you. they basically spin the sealing surface against a stone very slightly. this will show if they are bent and also cleans a new surface at the same time. usually depending on the machine shop and how often they do work for you, they will do this for FREE.

 

Am i buggin
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alterdcreations &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
might have to change the retainers also</TD></TR></TABLE>
i dont remimber typeing that
i really have to stop partying so much

 

You can also check for valve straightness by using Dykem and some light lapping compound. Put Dykem on the valve seat and valve face, then lightly lap the valve in the corresponding valve location in the head. If there is a spot where the Dykem remains on the valve in the contact band, then the valve is likely bent. If the contact is inconsistent, the valve could be bent, but it could just be irregularities in the valve and valve seat due to wear. A good valve job will fix that problem.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Missing Gears &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

inncorrect

sticking w/ oem valves is the best idea unless you are trying to squeeze avery last hp out of a 300+ whp race motor. they are stronger than aftermarket valves and are already "matching" your guides and seats. 90% of the time you wont need a valve job either, you can simply lap in the valves yourself. as far as cleaning them, you can simply use a bench grinder w/ a wire wheel, it works great.

now to check them for straightness it would be best to take them to a machine shop and they will spin them for you. they basically spin the sealing surface against a stone very slightly. this will show if they are bent and also cleans a new surface at the same time. usually depending on the machine shop and how often they do work for you, they will do this for FREE.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 117 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can also check for valve straightness by using Dykem and some light lapping compound. Put Dykem on the valve seat and valve face, then lightly lap the valve in the corresponding valve location in the head. If there is a spot where the Dykem remains on the valve in the contact band, then the valve is likely bent. If the contact is inconsistent, the valve could be bent, but it could just be irregularities in the valve and valve seat due to wear. A good valve job will fix that problem.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

you can just look at the head of an OEM valve compared to an aftermarket and see the difference. thats why i want to stick w/ OEM. but they seem to be more expensive than pretty much any aftermarket valve as far as ive seen. luckily i have a spare set. ill have to give the shop a call.

 

I also recommend the use of OEM valves unless you're building an all out race engine. I just use OEM valves myself, so I don't have a lot of experience with aftermarket valves, but I have seen some issues with aftermarket valves I've looked at. Now, I didn't do the install work, so I can't say whether or not the issues were due to improper installation, but I have yet to have an OEM valve that I've installed fail completely.

I will say that I've never seen an OEM valve tip mushroom or with excessive wear. I have seen an OEM valve start to pull through the valve seat, though. And that was on an OEM head that had never been touched. IIRC, it was about half of the intake valves on an H22 head. Of course the valves were useless after that, but the seats weren't damaged at all. Go figure.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1GPlusSH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm surprised nobody has jumped all over this. I personally think this is a horrible idea, but I'm sure it can be done with the right equipment. The thing is, if you're asking about how to check the straightness....I can pretty much promise this is a pretty bad idea.

Buy some new ones. They're a cheap way to keep your mind at ease.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what does that mean exctly?