Possibly adding nitrous and have some questions.
Ok. I have a 96 Vtec Lude.
Current mods
I/H/E
SS Valves
3 Angle valve job
and a mild debur on the intake side.
I am considering ordering nitrous, just to play with for a bit, but I have OBDII. Now, I have heard, that I can slot the bottom bolt on the distributor so I can retard/advance the timing. I have done the OBDII work around (cutting the wire on the ECU so it does not go out and fix things that it thinks are wrong), so will slotting the bolt work?
I figure I have to retard the timing a bit to use Nitrous, and get colder plugs. I am also planning on getting a MSD 6AL (getting the AL so the spray will only activate after 5k).
Also, what shot can I safely run at this point? Eventually I want to boost too, but by then the engine will be built up the rest of the way to handle all the extra goodies.
I was thinking just about playing it safe and staying with a 75 wet shot, but I want other opinions.
Thoughts?
If I dont boost, I think I will just up the compression to 11:1 and spray a smaller shot.. but once again... opinions needed.
Current mods
I/H/E
SS Valves
3 Angle valve job
and a mild debur on the intake side.
I am considering ordering nitrous, just to play with for a bit, but I have OBDII. Now, I have heard, that I can slot the bottom bolt on the distributor so I can retard/advance the timing. I have done the OBDII work around (cutting the wire on the ECU so it does not go out and fix things that it thinks are wrong), so will slotting the bolt work?
I figure I have to retard the timing a bit to use Nitrous, and get colder plugs. I am also planning on getting a MSD 6AL (getting the AL so the spray will only activate after 5k).
Also, what shot can I safely run at this point? Eventually I want to boost too, but by then the engine will be built up the rest of the way to handle all the extra goodies.
I was thinking just about playing it safe and staying with a 75 wet shot, but I want other opinions.
Thoughts?
If I dont boost, I think I will just up the compression to 11:1 and spray a smaller shot.. but once again... opinions needed.
Also, since I am very unfamiliar with MSD products. Is their a difference in the 6AL for a B18 and a 6AL for a H22?
Hmm, never heard of anyone slotting the dist to change timing. I believe there's still the matter of the crank sensor by the timing belt that still oversees everything. So i don't know if that'll work or not. Isn't there an attachment to the MSD ignition to retard timing? I assume that's the only way to trim timing without physically switching over to OBD-I.
As for the nitrous, there are plenty of people running anywhere from 55-75 without incident. Just be careful and watch your motor closely. And listen for detonation, so you'll know when to back off.
And why would you want it only @ 5k rpms? You can start off @ 3k and run it til 7.5k easily. Just don't run it any LOWER or hit the rev limiter. (Rev limiter = fuel cut = BOOM!)
As for the nitrous, there are plenty of people running anywhere from 55-75 without incident. Just be careful and watch your motor closely. And listen for detonation, so you'll know when to back off.
And why would you want it only @ 5k rpms? You can start off @ 3k and run it til 7.5k easily. Just don't run it any LOWER or hit the rev limiter. (Rev limiter = fuel cut = BOOM!)
Hmm, never heard of anyone slotting the dist to change timing. I believe there's still the matter of the crank sensor by the timing belt that still oversees everything. So i don't know if that'll work or not. Isn't there an attachment to the MSD ignition to retard timing? I assume that's the only way to trim timing without physically switching over to OBD-I.
As for the nitrous, there are plenty of people running anywhere from 55-75 without incident. Just be careful and watch your motor closely. And listen for detonation, so you'll know when to back off.
And why would you want it only @ 5k rpms? You can start off @ 3k and run it til 7.5k easily. Just don't run it any LOWER or hit the rev limiter. (Rev limiter = fuel cut = BOOM!)
As for the nitrous, there are plenty of people running anywhere from 55-75 without incident. Just be careful and watch your motor closely. And listen for detonation, so you'll know when to back off.
And why would you want it only @ 5k rpms? You can start off @ 3k and run it til 7.5k easily. Just don't run it any LOWER or hit the rev limiter. (Rev limiter = fuel cut = BOOM!)
It has extra sensors and stuff, but thats about it.. no autocorrecting crap..
I could be wrong though..
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well if I also remember correctly the 96 OBDII.. is not really OBDII..
It has extra sensors and stuff, but thats about it.. no autocorrecting crap..
I could be wrong though..
It has extra sensors and stuff, but thats about it.. no autocorrecting crap..
I could be wrong though..
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Also, since I am very unfamiliar with MSD products. Is their a difference in the 6AL for a B18 and a 6AL for a H22?
The MSD dig 6 is good ****. I ditched my MSD 6A in favor of it for this season. Basically, you connect the pink wire from the dig 6 up to the wire that gives power to the nitrous noid. Whenever the pink wire sees 12V(In other words when you spray nitrous) it will knock your timing back for you. I've ridden around with manually retarded timing and it sucks. The low end power is horrible and launching becomes a PITA.
A 75 shot will be fine, but pick up some NGK-BKR7E plugs. Summit sells them and they are cheap.
Stay away from any NOS kit with super powershot solenoids. I spent all of last season blowing them out. The cheater or proshot noids work much better. Roby on here sells them for a good price. The route is NX, which makes good wet kits.
Besides the retarded timing and colder plugs you'll need a purge kit to purge the shitty nitrous out of the line before your runs, and to relieve pressure in the line after you finish your run and close the bottle. http://www.speedshop.org has nice purge kits and bad *** pressure regulated bottle heaters. You are in AL so I doubt you'll need one, but nitrous needs to be at about 85 degrees for optimum power. If you don't have temps around that get the heater.
The bare minimum to get is the plugs, retarded timing(Dig 6), purge kit, and a bottle mounted nitrous pressure gauge.
A 75 shot will be fine, but pick up some NGK-BKR7E plugs. Summit sells them and they are cheap.
Stay away from any NOS kit with super powershot solenoids. I spent all of last season blowing them out. The cheater or proshot noids work much better. Roby on here sells them for a good price. The route is NX, which makes good wet kits.
Besides the retarded timing and colder plugs you'll need a purge kit to purge the shitty nitrous out of the line before your runs, and to relieve pressure in the line after you finish your run and close the bottle. http://www.speedshop.org has nice purge kits and bad *** pressure regulated bottle heaters. You are in AL so I doubt you'll need one, but nitrous needs to be at about 85 degrees for optimum power. If you don't have temps around that get the heater.
The bare minimum to get is the plugs, retarded timing(Dig 6), purge kit, and a bottle mounted nitrous pressure gauge.
you are the man..
so the dig 6 will retard my timing for me.. even though I am OBDII?
so the dig 6 will retard my timing for me.. even though I am OBDII?
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vmsturbo
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Aug 21, 2004 06:29 PM




