I have a 1995 Prelude Si. I just reconnected the cable from the temp slider to the air mix door. After doing so it does not go all the way in either direction. It moves the door, no doubt, but the slider does not stay all the way at the cool nor the hot side on the slider. It goes all the way and then comes back about 3/4 of an inch from each end. On top of that there is no cool air coming from the vents. I drove it last night after repairing it at 60mph, no recirculation on, with it being about 60 out, and the air was at least 75-80 degrees coming out. Any thoughts. Thanks guys.

 

Bump

 

About the cable, there's a screw holding it to the unit. Unscrew and let the cable loose. Then you will be able to pull the cable all the way to cold. Then re-tighten the screw holding the cable.

 

Ill try it and let you know if it helps. I just took the car to the body shop today to get the whole front end straightened out. Hopefully I get it back soon and will be able to let you know if it worked out.

 

ttt

 

great got the same thing. its that easy of afix?

 

What's that? The cold air issue being an easy fix?

 

make sure the clamps on either side of the cable (one on the control and one by the air box) are clamping the sleeve of the cable and not the cable itself. if you have the clamps clamed to the actual metal cable it will bind. also unhook the side going to the box, slide the control all the way to cold then reattatch. (after checking the clamps).

 

Thanks. I will try that as soon as it comes back and let you know if it solves my issue. It's at the body shop so hopefully early this week ill be getting it back. Thanks again.

 

Mine is a '93, but the problem was that the hot water valve would not shut off all the way. The valve is a bit hard to get to, so I put a manual shutoff valve in the line for a while until I could replace the valve.

90 degree water valve $6.99.... Cold AC in the summer, priceless !
Replacement heater valve $43.... Not Cold air in the winter, Also priceless !

 

Where is that located exactly? And what does it entail removing and doing when I get to it? Thanks for all your input guys. I really appreciate it. Keep it coming.

 

The heater control valve is on the firewall, passenger side, about six inches below the intake manifold - kind of toward the center. It is a square box about 1 1/2 inches per side and has a short arm and cable attached to the top and two hoses, roughly 3/4 inch on opposite sides.

Just have someone move the temp **** back and forth a few times and you'll see it moving.

 

And what exactly do I have to do to it to get it working properly?

 

If your car is like mine, the cable going to the valve may be rusted and not opening, or closing the valve properly.

I have to disagree with the other posters in this thread though, as long as everything is working with your damper door and the inner dash hardware, the valve in the engine bay won't affect temperature. My valve is all the way to the hot position, but it only blows hot air when I turn the slider to the hot position.

The under hood valve just lets coolant into the heater core. Hot air doesn't blow until you open up the door on top of the heater core via the climate control. I imagine this door by the heater core is stuck open for whatever reason, giving you no cold air when you want it.

 

#1 in this parts pic



79710-SS0-003 VALVE ASSY., WATER $34

 

If the cable is stiff, it might just be slipping. In my case, the valve seat was leaking, so hot water always flows through the heater core. The basic adjustment is to move the temp lever all the way to cold. That should PUSH on the valve so that it is completely shut. You might check my directions, it has been a while. I'm pretty sure that cold pushs the valve toward the passenger side.

Anyway - the cold position is the critical one. It doesn't take much hot water to heat the inside of the car, much less make a hot day really suck... so just make sure the valve closes all the way.

In a really old car that I had, the cable was actually slipping and all I had to do was tighten the cable holder down.

 

Thanks guys. Unfortunately I cannot test any of these recommendations because my car still isn't back from the shop. I'm praying for early this next week. This is crazy. I'm coming up on a month of it being there. But i really appreciate all the input and plan to test everything as soon as I have the car back in my possession. Here is a little preview. Here's what it looked like on the 15th. if you look closely you can tell the frame is pretty messed up. I'm getting a great deal though.