my h22 died on me. it will still turn over but theres no ignition. could the timing be off? like it almost jumped a tooth?

thanks

 

Of course it could, check your timing belt and see if it is.

 

well im on vacation and ill be back in a few days.. i was just wondering the possibilities of what could be wrong with it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94CDMeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well im on vacation and ill be back in a few days.. i was just wondering the possibilities of what could be wrong with it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

??? Honestly there's nothing we can do over the internet if you don't have access to the car. Most anything is possible, you might have thrown a rod through the block for all anybody knows or you could have gotten a Diet Dr. Pepper can jammed up in your alternator and killed it and blown fuses....who knows

Might be something simple, might not.

 

yeh i know its just im not going to be with my car for 3 weeks..
i know it could be anything...

 

Diet Dr. Pepper?? Thats streching reality into a twisted fairy tale.

How many miles are on the car, and when was the last time you did a TBelt change. And if you did it, did you replace the auto tensionor by chance?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Diet Dr. Pepper?? Thats streching reality into a twisted fairy tale.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, that actually happened to me. I popped my hood one day and there was a smashed Diet Dr.Pepper can jammed in the alternator. I removed it and the alternator died a few days later randomly

 

umm it was replaced less than 20k miles ago. and yes the tensioner was replaced also..
i had a prelude before and this happened. it even looked like the timing was right (uncle is a honda mechanic). and like a few 100 dollars later it turned out it was only a tooth off.
its fine ill post when i get home and when i have the car infront of me.
thanks for trying to help acidcrakker

 

ok so i figured out its the dizzy cap and the rotor that went bad. but ive run into a problem.. the dizzy on my jdm h22a has an internal coil. and the usdm h22a4 has an external coil. so the dizzy cap from a normal h22a4 won't work..
does mabe msd have a part or kit to fit my application?

 

Contact distributorking. They should be able to get you the cap. Dunno if the usdm and jdm rotors are the same.

Can you describe how your last Prelude died when it was off one tooth? I'm in the same situation now. Replaced the tie rods, and started the car. It ran badly for 5sec and stopped running on it's own. Turns over, but doesn't start now. Checked the timing, one of the cam gears is off by a tooth. It's just wierd, because I've always read that the engine will run with the timing of by one tooth, albeit poorly.

 

one tooth of wont keep it from starting

 

That's what I had always thought too, but my belt is off by a tooth and the engine is not starting. And apparently, the op experienced it as well.

I have spark and fuel, and my timing looked ok peering through the little hole at flywheel. So no clue what the problem was. After reading this post, I decided to just remove the crank pulley and make sure- by using the timing gear and oil pump. It's off by one tooth.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94CDMeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i had a prelude before and this happened. it even looked like the timing was right (uncle is a honda mechanic). and like a few 100 dollars later it turned out it was only a tooth off.
its fine ill post when i get home and when i have the car infront of me.
thanks for trying to help acidcrakker</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

the way my uncle described it to me how it happenes (hes a honda mechanic for like 30 yrs) is if you have alot of strain on the engine for ex. reving it to redline, and then just all of a sudden let off. the belt can slip because it went from alot of tension to a little.
and thats the same as mine was. it would run for mabe 5 secs but it wouldnt idle and the engine ran poorly for those 5 secs.
this was years ago but i remember we had to take the tenision off the belt and move the cam gear back a tooth or forward a tooth.
just to make sure. when your doing this align the intake gear, the arrow should be straight up and see wheather the exhaust gear aligns with it.

 

i agree with you i didnt think one tooth would make a world of a difference but apparently it does.
hope that helps some.

 

and distributor king only sells whole distributors. i only need the cap and rotor..
any other ideas?

 

People on ht do sell their used internal coil dis', and you can find them on ebay too. If I were in your position, I'd take this oppurtunity to just convert to external coil and be done with it. It'll make future maintenance easier.

If you'd like to keep the jdm dis, contact hmotorsonline. They can source new and used oem parts.

 

i was actually thinking about that. isnt wiring the coil relatively easy?

 

I'm not sure, since I've never had to do it. Search the archives, I'm sure you'll find a plethora of info since many have swapped jdm engines.

 

yeh apparently its splicing 2 wires together. and thats it.. dosent sound too hard. thanks man. i think im going to stick with internal right now because i need my car to run again. its my dd.

 

The same thing happened to me at the end of my swap, the engine would turnover but wouldn't start. I initially thought the coil but since the coil came with the swap i thought it was good. So i went with the cheapest things first. The cap and rotor from a 2000 civic si will fit on a jdm internal coil dist. It was like $33 from napa. That's what i'm using now.
anyways.. after replacing the cap and rotor it still wouldn't start, again i suspected the coil.. had my known good external coil laying around, wired it in and lo and behold it started up. Went to napa again and bought the internal coil from the same 2000 civic si, installed it and works perfectly to this day.
I'm not saying you have a bad coil but if you do, know that you could get the replacement from a civic si.. i payed like $60 for the new coil.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinuneuro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd take this oppurtunity to just convert to external coil and be done with it. It'll make future maintenance easier. </TD></TR></TABLE>

internal is just as easy, plus internal looks cleaner IMO. Plus you don't have to worry about mounting the coil. I say stick with internal..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94CDMeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok so i figured out its the dizzy cap and the rotor that went bad. but ive run into a problem.. the dizzy on my jdm h22a has an internal coil. and the usdm h22a4 has an external coil. so the dizzy cap from a normal h22a4 won't work..
does mabe msd have a part or kit to fit my application?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

same thing happened to me.. sorta. had a bad dizzy. i looked around and i found a whole dizzy unit at the oddest place. autozone. strangely enough, it comes w/ a lifetime warranty, all for 170. so i figured lifetime warranty, oh what the hell. ordered it and bam, all better.

edit: i just checked autozone. they sell the dizzy cap for 18 bucks. what a steal. who cares if it's duralast. their crap isn't half bad from my experience.

 

thanks yall yeh i have the correct dizzy cap and rotor. but now it starts. and idles a little rough. but at about 3k rpms it starts getting really rough. and like misfiring... could my coil be bad?

 

bad news.. whatever gear that is in the dizzy (not shown in any of the shop manuals i have). above the coil. before the metal plate seperating it from the rotor. is complelty screwed up. i took apart the dizzy and there are metal shards everywhere. i think im looking at getting a complete new or used distributor. preferably able to fit the obd1 h22a which would be an internal coil.
or would it be that hard to wire a distributor and external coil mabe from a usdm h22a4?

 

it's not that hard to wire an external coil. There should be 2 terminals that are connected to the internal coil. One terminal has 2 wires going to it, black/yellow.... leave it disconnected and cover up the exposed terminal. The other terminal which is white/blue should be connected to the blue wire of the external coil harness. Remove the whole internal coil and replace with an external coil dist cap.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94CDMeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but now it starts. and idles a little rough. but at about 3k rpms it starts getting really rough. and like misfiring... could my coil be bad?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you just might need to adjust the ignition timing. What i did was just rotate the whole dist back and forth a bit to get it to idle at it's best, then took it to a shop to have them adjust it with the timing light.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drbenne &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it's not that hard to wire an external coil. There should be 2 terminals that are connected to the internal coil. One terminal has 2 wires going to it, black/yellow.... leave it disconnected and cover up the exposed terminal. The other terminal which is white/blue should be connected to the blue wire of the external coil harness. Remove the whole internal coil and replace with an external coil dist cap.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok but what goes to the external coil? and dont i need to have a cam positing sensor to go to the external coil?


Modified by 94CDMeg at 1:09 AM 8/6/2008