Hello everyone,
I am working on a 93 si which had a h23 in it. I am looking to put a h22 vtec engine in the car, but I am wondering which h22 option would be the best, I have found a couple of engines and well some of them I never heard of, hopefully you guys/gals could help me out....

I called a local junk yard and he said he had a:
h22a2 which from what I can find, that come from a prelude 2.2iVTEC. my question is, what does the i stand for?

second,
I called another guy and he said he had a prelude sr-v..... never heard of that one at all, dug around on the net and found it's a h22a1 (93-96).... anyone every run one of these? and are they any good?

third, I found a h22a which is what I thought I wanted, but I kind of want to know about the other two if they are anything good to have. From what I can find the h22a has the most hp stock from the others, but are there any benifits to using a a2 or the sr-v?

any info would be great,

Thanks,
PABB4

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_h_engine#H22

 

read the FAQs link at the top of the page...i got this one there:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-prelude-4/%2A%2A%2A%2Aprelude-specifications-stats%2A%2A%2A%2A-549372/

 

Hey guys, thanks for the info! I think the one guy I called was smoking somthing, I don't think he had the h22a2..... euro

 

Just get an A1. Spend the extra money on performance parts and tuning. Unless you want a closed deck H22a. H22a1 are just the usdm, open deck, lowest comp, pretty much most common h22.

 

Just wondering how other people feel about buying a engine off ebay? any thoughts? anyone done it? recommend a seller? any info would be great.... thanks

 

if you're just wanting to drop it in your car and go, don't do it. you get what you pay for.

 

Hmotorsonline.
If you want just a drop in motor with no worries.
My motor was in tip top shape when I tore it apart.


If you wanna tear into your motor first I'd just look on CL. I'd wanna see the motor in person if your buying from a private party.

 

The H22A1 is NOT open deck. The H22A4 is.
Your average junkyard H22A1 is going to be junk. JDM H22A is cheap and easy to find for about $1,000.
And in actuality, the H22A1 is probably the most rare H22 at this point. The JDM H22A was made longer, had more production as was the H22A4.

 

Hey thanks for the replies guys. I did a search on CL and found one some what local. H22a ( 400 bucks) took it out of a civic someone swap in thank goodness for bad drivers, dude put into a tree and totaled the hatch.

 

I didn't want to start a new thread for this, I am having some problems finding some info. Will a distributor from h23 non vtec work on the h22a? It did not have one.....

 

NO. If you buy the h22a it's going to be running internal coil as the h23a1 is running on external. It will not work.

I would get the JDM H22A because it's a 10.6cr vs the h22a1 with 10.1cr.

If you have time and money to spare, get the h23vtec. You'll love the torque!

 

Ah, thanks. I was thinking the A4 was the closed deck and the A1 was open.

 

^^ funny

By and large, all H22s are the same, the only major difference is the CR of the pistons. The only one that has a real significant difference is the Type-S, with much higher compression and better cams.

Open deck, closed deck, unless you are building over 350-400hp, or compression ratios above 12:1 it doesn't really matter. Then again, making power at that level or above, you should be sleeving, and if you're doing that, then O-ringing or step decking the block should be done and again ... open deck, closed deck, doesn't matter.

The big advantage of an A4 is the 55mm mains, they're less likely to spin bearings as there is more bearing surface area.

If you're looking for a drop in and drive motor, get the one that matches your OBD level, its going to be an easier drop in.

As far as other non-H22 drop in motors, compared to the H22
F20B: revs higher, less low end torque, OBD2, about the same HP
H23A-vtec: lower revs, more low end torque, slightly less HP, OBD2

 

[QUOTE=Contender_h22a;46225812]NO. If you buy the h22a it's going to be running internal coil as the h23a1 is running on external. It will not work.

Yes it will work! as im using a td-61u (4th gen distributor external coil) on my 5 gen.
or u could mod your to make it internal.. doesnt matter.

 

Wow, thanks for all the info guys. I bought the h22a, obd1 engine. I am in the process of tearing it down to replace some of the parts/belts. I am missing the dizzy so i'm torn, asianpoet says a h23 dizzy will work, but others say no. Any one else done this? I don't want to buy one if I don't have to, there close to two hun bucks here. Again any help would be great. Thanks again!

 

a simple google search...

http://www.justanswer.com/honda/3vtx...e-replace.html

your car is a 93 (obd1) 92-95 had a obd1, they used td-61u (external coil usdm)
td60-u (internal coil, JDM)
dont let others mis lead you with the wrong information... you can use either or..

 

As long as you are using the wiring harness from your old engine, you should use your existing H23 dizzy as well, as

one: you have it.

two: it will plug into your harness properly.

 

I have actually seen just the opposite in my day. Seems like the 55s are MORE prone to premature bearing failure. Could coincidentally be the owners lack of care though.

 

Faced again with another problem, currently having problems locating a listing for the h22a motor. All local parts stores ( including rockauto.com) are only listing the h22a1, are parts the same (ex: oil pump, water pump, timing belt etc...) ??? I did not think I would run into this problem. Again any help would be great....

 

So i did some searching on the fourm and found a post from "poison" in the H22a into civic eg/ek information post, a few years back. He stated that you can use the USDM H22 waterpump, oil pump, timing etc.... can anyone can any information that this is correct, I have not found many post about this topic, so i'm guessing the h22a1 parts will work, since thats the only listing found. Again, I am very thankful for any and all information giving.

Thanks again,
PABB4

 

Unless you are rebuilding your motor, at least 95% of the parts are completely interchangeable.

The big gotchas in general are the distributor, injectors, and OBD level wiring specific stuff.

Just about EVERYTHING H22 bolts on, no matter whether its an A, A1, A4, Z1 the physical block and head bolt positions are all the same: water pump, timing belt, balance shaft belt, intake manifold, exhaust.

Basically, I really haven't found a bolt-on mechanical item that isn't interchangeable between H22s, wiring is a different story. JDM/USDM doesn't matter, the block itself is cast the same. The heads are a little different, but not in any way that matters for bolting stuff on.

 

Thanks, Complete skipped over that.

 

I clarified my previous post a bit more, to try to keep the detail ***** from distracting you by posting some irrelevant BS about how some AC bolt doesn't line up from A1 to A4 in a Civic or some other random garbage.

When ordering parts, order for a 93 Prelude VTEC and you should be all good, USDM or not.

If you switch to internal coil:
For the cap and rotor, use B16 parts, 99 Civic Si, USDM

If you keep your external coil
Just use the right cap and rotor for your H23, 92 Prelude Si.

 

Thanks again, besides the issues we have already discussed this seems like it will be a pretty easy swap. Looking forward to the winter project. Thanks for all your help again