Got my Lude, its a 97, Black, 47k miles, extremely clean, and very cool. Sold my Eclipse, kinda miss it, but the Lude is such a great cruising vehicle, and its alot faster 0-60 than the Eclipse was. I do have a question, what is the rev limiter set at? When I floor it, and get up to about 6800rpm, it stops me from going higher. I figured it would at least be set at the red line, is my guage off, or is it just set lower than red line. Also, I was thinking of having my underbody sprayed, to prevent rust, but is there any areas I need to get with some protectant, where rust usually occurs on these cars. Anything else about this car I should know, tell me. I have a 2.5 year complete warranty, so I am golden for long while to come.

 

VTEC isn't engauging. You're hitting the regular rev limiter.

Make sure the oil is 100% full and that it's warmed up.

 

Ok, I will check my oil and stuff today. But can you explain why its not engaging? I thought it was like an automatic thing.

 

If the car isn't warmed up then the oil won't flow through the VTEC solenoid and the VTEC won't engage. I usually wait until the car is completely warmed up before I take it above 4000 rpm. The fuel cut off is at 8200 rpm, but don't take it past 8k.

 

Cool, thanks. I never rev past red line, its pointless, no more power. But I know teh power does increase all the way up till red, then the power drops off. Thanks for letting me know though, i was kinda worried.

 

well, it's at "8,200" on the 93's. The 94-96 should have fuel cutoff show at the 7600 mark.

 

7600? Damn that's not much room for error with a 7200 redline.

 

7200? Mine was supposedly "7,500" and the fuel cutoff is at around that... ~7,600~ or so.

Is mine the only 94 VTEC like this? I noticed Warrens 93 was different from mine.

 

My redline looks to be 7200 on the tach, but I treat the redline like the speed limit. It's just a suggestion.

 

h22a1's (4th gens) have a 7,400 rpm redline.
What honda does to determine its redline is put redline 500 rpm after peak HP.....h22a1's make peak power at 6,900 rpm. GSR's make peak power at 7600...add 500 rpm you get the 8100 rpm redline

 

That makes sense. So theoretically after every mod or tuning session your redline could change.

 

my 94 redline is at 7400 from the best my eye can tell. ive hit about 7900rpm but then switched. i havent hit the limiter yet..

 

When looking at a dyno for the 97-01 Ludes it showed peak power right at 7400 rpm. Anyways, everything is cool, the engine just needed to warm up, after that, reved it to 7000rpm no problem. Also, when its time to change the oil, I am planning on using Valvoline synthetic blend, good choice? I also purchased an engine treatment kit today, came with some fuel treatment as a bonus. My dad told me that its basically a really good lubricant, and helps keep the wear on the engine down, anyone else use egine treatment? Like it or dislike it? I put in the fuel treatment tonight, make sure everything is cleaned up. How NOS friendly are the Ludes? I wont be able to run any for about 2.5 years, thats when warranty runs out, but wondering how much I can safely run. I was thinking about 50shots, but maybe 40 is the most I would want to go.

 

I personally use Kendall oil on the recommendation from the manager of advanced auto who drag races V8s. I used castrol on my civic and would use Costrol syntec on my lude if it didn't cost so damn much. You can safely run an 80 shot on an H22a and I wouldn't hesitate to run a 100 shot on it after a bit of dyno tuning.

 

Actually the fuel-cut for 5 gens is at 8000 RPM on the TACH, some people say that 8000 on the TACH is equal to 7600 actual engine RPMs. maybe thats what JG Luder is talking about. personally I always go of the TACH.

I've taken my 01 Lude (manual) all the way up to 8000 RPMs and it still pulls, I once went over 8000 RPM and I got a sudden deceleration (fuel-cut)

one thing about shifting at 7900-8000 RPM's (on the TACH) dont do it all the time its just not good for the car.


[Modified by BlueShadow, 8:46 AM 1/2/2002]

 

my shiftlight is set at 7400 RPM. If I go even a slight hair above that, I hit fuel cut.

the 4th gen stock tach is about 300 RPM off near redline, comparing the digital tach on the V-AFC to the gauge itself.


***EDIT: I believe its ignition cut, actually***


[Modified by JDM LUDE, 8:56 AM 1/2/2002]

 

There are some benefits from shifting at 7800-8000 RPMs (on the TACH).

by shifting at 8000 RPM not only will you still be in VTEC in the next gear, but your also in the cars powerband, but just like laughin2.2 said dont make a habit of doing this. Personally, I only do it when I seriously want to whoop somebody's ***. Staying in VTEC while you shift is very important, also learning the MAX speed you need to be in VTEC for each gear helps.

2nd gear 40 MPH minimum speed for VTEC
3rd gear 60-65 MPH
4th gear 90? MPH

so If you're driving along at 40-45 MPH in 5th gear and you need to get a burst of speed downshift into second and dont *POP* the clutch but release it a little slowly.




[Modified by BlueShadow, 8:58 AM 1/2/2002]

 

The fuel cut in 5th gen (5-speed) is actually 7200 rpm, on the factory tach it reads 8400 before fuel cuts. I had a 97 (non SH ) and on the dash it read 8400 as well but with the AutoMeter (wired directly to the engine before the ECU) it never went past 7200rpm. I have driven an automatic lude and it hit at about 6700.

 

hey blueshadow is that a auto lude that you have cause mine tops speeds on the gears are totally different. 2nd is like 55; 3rd is 95 never maxed 4th or 5th

 

it's actually 7400rpm (the fuel cut), and yes, the tach is off up top. how much it's off seems to vary somewhat from one lude to the next with the range being about 7800-8500.

 

yeah I have to agree.