Frankenstein build.
I'm gonna go for it, after reading the faq over and over. Now, what I do need help with, is the list. I copied this list from the faq, and I was wondering, what else would I need? I want to do it right (as I mentioned before, I really don't know much about cars).
For those who have the frankenstein build, how has it treated you so far?
I'm not gonna race the car, I just want to have a really nice car, tuned, etc..
1. VTEC head, complete: cams, gears, rockers, valve cover.
2. VTEC timing belt- VTEC has more teeth on the belt than the Si does.
3. VTEC water pump.
4. VTEC auto hydraulic tensioner for timing belt.
5. VTEC manual tensioner.
6. VTEC head gasket.
7. VTEC lower, most inner crankshaft pulley; ('96 is different due to sensors!!!).
8. VTEC intake manifold ('96, throttle body has sensors which you need to use).
9. VTEC exhaust manifold - i couldnt find a used downpipe, dealer was $621, so i bought DC Headers-VTEC.
10. VTEC ECU/ECM.
11. VTEC spark plugs and wires.
12. VTEC water pump pipe (black pipe that runs behind the head from the water pump to thermostat housing.
13. VTEC injectors - if you don't change these over, then once you plug in the ECU/ECM you will keep blowing the 'EAT ECU' fuse when you crank/start the car.
*DISTRIBUTOR was the same so it did not need to be changed - double checked part numbers.
*VTEC controller - not required but could be used if you dont buy a new ECU/ECM and have a way to bypass your redline.
For those who have the frankenstein build, how has it treated you so far?
I'm not gonna race the car, I just want to have a really nice car, tuned, etc..
1. VTEC head, complete: cams, gears, rockers, valve cover.
2. VTEC timing belt- VTEC has more teeth on the belt than the Si does.
3. VTEC water pump.
4. VTEC auto hydraulic tensioner for timing belt.
5. VTEC manual tensioner.
6. VTEC head gasket.
7. VTEC lower, most inner crankshaft pulley; ('96 is different due to sensors!!!).
8. VTEC intake manifold ('96, throttle body has sensors which you need to use).
9. VTEC exhaust manifold - i couldnt find a used downpipe, dealer was $621, so i bought DC Headers-VTEC.
10. VTEC ECU/ECM.
11. VTEC spark plugs and wires.
12. VTEC water pump pipe (black pipe that runs behind the head from the water pump to thermostat housing.
13. VTEC injectors - if you don't change these over, then once you plug in the ECU/ECM you will keep blowing the 'EAT ECU' fuse when you crank/start the car.
*DISTRIBUTOR was the same so it did not need to be changed - double checked part numbers.
*VTEC controller - not required but could be used if you dont buy a new ECU/ECM and have a way to bypass your redline.
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From: land of the sheep, home of the hypocrite
What kind of car is this going into? I'd suggest a P28 (or similar) ECU and a tune. I mean, if you want to do it "right" it should be tuned. Also, with a stock H23 bottom end yawr compressing will be pretty low. This is fine if you want to run regular low octane gasoline, but if you want more power I'd suggest some H22 pistons.
it's going into a '95 prelude, si.
"with a stock H23 bottom end yawr compressing will be pretty low. This is fine if you want to run regular low octane gasoline, but if you want more power I'd suggest some H22 pistons. "
If I get the h22 pistons, what else will I need? (as mentioned before, I'm new to this)
"with a stock H23 bottom end yawr compressing will be pretty low. This is fine if you want to run regular low octane gasoline, but if you want more power I'd suggest some H22 pistons. "
If I get the h22 pistons, what else will I need? (as mentioned before, I'm new to this)
Well... I spun a bearing at the race track and tried to drive it to my friends house for the new motor and it seized and broke #3 con rod. Then I tried to make it the rest of the way on 3 cylinders and the broken end of the rod beat a hole in my block and my header. My '99 F20B is going on 3 years trouble free.
The nice part about FRM is you dont have to pull sleeves to sell a block as scrap aluminum.
The nice part about FRM is you dont have to pull sleeves to sell a block as scrap aluminum.
My stock h23 bottom end with 80k with h22 head ran fantastic for me for over 2 years. I sold the car and I see it still driving around. Still has the same set up. It makes for a fun street car. I enjoyed it. Im debating the F20B for my cb7.
Also if you use h22 pistons with your h23 rods, the pistons will protrude out of the block a little bit but im sure you already know that lol.
I also built one of these motors for a friend and used the h22 pistons. It also had a few more bolt ons than my set up did but I could tell a difference in his set up vs my set up. He used a oem honda headgasket (i think its a .028 someone correct me if im wrong). It had some decent compression.
Good luck with your build sir!
Also if you use h22 pistons with your h23 rods, the pistons will protrude out of the block a little bit but im sure you already know that lol.
I also built one of these motors for a friend and used the h22 pistons. It also had a few more bolt ons than my set up did but I could tell a difference in his set up vs my set up. He used a oem honda headgasket (i think its a .028 someone correct me if im wrong). It had some decent compression.
Good luck with your build sir!
Thanks so much for the feedback guys! I'm not gonna race the car, just for looks and cruising. I wanna do tons of research first, before I really start modding heavy.
I want to do it right.
I want to do it right.
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