hey does anyone have rotors and pads bought off ebay? are they any good?

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Honda-Prelude-92-...QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.ca/92-96-Honda-Prelu...QQcmdZViewItem

should i not cheap out and get some Power Slot 'ProStop' SLOTTED & DRILLED Brake Rotor and PBR/Axxis Metal Master XBG Brake Pad Set ?

 

First, your links aren't links, and the addresses don't work anyway.

Second, you're asking for trouble with this question. You're going to get several different biased opinions about what is good and what isn't. The only way to get a solid answer is to try the **** yourself.

Now for my moderately biased opinion: I upgraded my stock braking system (all 4 corners) with Napa's premium cross-drilled & slotted rotors and raybestos ceramic pads (I picked these brands because I get them at cost). I immediately noticed a significant increase in stopping power and a ~90% reduction in brake dust buildup. To make sure it wasn't wishful thinking, I've installed these same brands/parts on 3 other vehicles (96 Integra, 02 Civic, & 01 Sonoma) with the same results.

Furthermore, if you want decent quality for a decent price, there's no reason to purchase HEAVY items on eBay when you get the same quality/price at a local store. Shipping charges add up.

Lastly, several people are going to tell you to get Brembo blanks (for about 4X as much as I paid for my rotors) because the cross-drilling and slotting of rotors increases your chances of cracking or warping the rotors, decreases the life of your pads, and does nothing for stopping power. To those people I say bullshit. I installed mine nearly 5 years ago. The rotors are still perfectly true and my pads aren't even half gone. If my rotors haven't warped or cracked with the way that I drive, then it's not going to happen to anyone else (unless MAYBE you track your car, or get some low quality stuff).

So in conclusion, opinions are like politicians. Most are completely worthless and full of lies (but not mine).

 

i have cross drilled slotted brembo's and love them. best thing you can do for your braking system, no matter what you go with, is to break them in according to the pad makers specs. pbr metal masters- called for continuous light brake hold at 35 mph for approximately 5 min- had to head to the county to accomplish this, repeat several times. good luck

 

I am running Brembo blanks because like ^ I can get them just over cost. I am also running the PBR metal masters, they are a great combo, but there WILL be brake dust. I did run the Napa ceramic pads for a while, and while they did work great and very little dust, my complaint was that they needed a few stops before the bit properly. It was for this reason that when I did my Vtec brake conversion, I switched to a metallic pad.
And again, like ^ said, shipping costs add up, check out your local parts stores, and as long as you are not rude, and make yourself known there, you can usually have a few bucks knocked off the price, especially if you are purchasing everything at once.

 

While I do recommend following break-in procedures, that is NOT the way to do it. Here is what I just pulled off of PBR's web site:
BREAK-IN PROCEDURES

After installing new brakes, they need to be broken-in properly. To condition friction and rotors correctly, the following procedures should be followed:

1. Accelerate vehicle to 40 MPH.
2. Apply brakes using light to moderate pedal effort to reduce speed to approximately 10 MPH.
3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 at least ten times, allowing 1/4 mile between cycles.

Under no circumstances drive the vehicle with the brakes continually applied as a break-in procedure because:

1. Excessive heat will be generated.
2. Resins will burn.
3. Loss of braking efficiency could occur.

 

I'm looking into some drilled and slotted rotors I've found on eBay. Good feedback and good reviews when I "googled" them. They offer a 1 year warranty against warping and a lifetime warranty against cracking. Worth a shot...I just gotta find a good pad. I've heard alot about those PBR Metal Masters and Hawk HPS.