if i had the time and i was you i would look up all the grounds especially for the cluster and make sure ones not messed up or loose

 

wow that is one big cluster f*** of wires good luck man that is one area I know nothing about

 

Well, that's that!
Your stock harness has been removed and somebody has started converting the dash harness to accommodate your stock dash components.
NOW that you have an idea for what you have, you now finally at a good starting point to have your questions answered.

 

Okay, so where do I start to fix it? Im confused.

 

So I think I may have a good start to my problem anyways...1st off, I have a CRX si cluster in the car. I also found a yellow plug (just laying back there) with Yellow/Black, black, and blue wiring. I know Yellow black is something for the fuel gauge I think, so Im assuming thats a problem.. I also found a green plug (looks identical to the dimmer switch plug) with Red/Blue, Red/Black, Black and Yellow wiring. Anyone shed some light on this?

 

So now I unhook my IAT sensor, hook in the one I got, car ides beautifully, but my CEL comes BACK ON. I think its Code 15 I'm throwing now. And Im hearing a weird noise from what sounds like is coming from my Transmission. Really making me sick to my stomach :/

 

15 is a distributor issue. Typically it's the ignitor module (inside the distributor), but not always.
It is directly over the transmission so you might be hearing it.

 

Here is the Fuse box I am using, I noticed nothing is hooked up to the "Option connectors". Is this good or bad?

 

I'm not a wiring genius or anything, but here is the little theory I've came up with.

I'm using a 5th gen fusebox, and wiring, so therefore, maybe I should try a 5th gen gauge cluster and wiring? I've been seeing all kinds of DIY's and GSR clusters, that would be nice, plus I think I have the wiring for it in my garage (Blue gauge cluster plugs?). Anyone shed light on this theory? It already has a yellow plug in the harness (Which I believe is a SRS hookup in 96-00 civics)

 

Ran it today, and drove it a little, did something today it never did. Drove it, idled great when it first started, but than, everytime I stopped the car would either come REALLY close to stalling or stalled. The longer I drove the more prone to stalling it was.

 

Where is your IAT mounted?

 

Picked up a 91 wiring harness, going to rip out this guys hackjob dash wiring tonight and see what happens <3

 

Okay, so I got the dash harness out of a 91 Civic. This is what I got, I need a little wiring help though, since the fuse plugs dont fit in the fuse box.

First off here is my exact fusebox (I think its out of a 92-95)



Here is the harness I pulled out of my car [Lol]









Here is the harness I got, I already hooked up all the plugs that fit right in, so I could give you guys a better idea of which plugs I'm either not sure of, or don't fit.

 

ok so my only thought is to run the obd0 dash harness into the obd1 harness you would be hacking it to fit the plugs. So in thought why not look up both diagrams for the dash harness's and re pin the obd1 harness instead of cutting ends off the obd0 to fit????

 

I figured I could just take the plugs off my current fusebox (Blue one and the two that go into the fusebox), and splice them into the 91 dash harness I got, wouldnt that work?

 

Help please?

 

I need the wire colors and layout to the blue plug on the 90-91 harness

 

If you are able to get in contact with the person who previously owned your car, ask them if the fuel gauge has always been stuck at full because if that is the case then it usually tends to be your fuel sending unit causing the problem. I have the same problem in my 89 civic wagon and although I have yet to test it I know my gauge works because sometimes it will begin to move but that could also be a wiring problem. You could check the fuse for it if you really wanted to just to say you did. If you dont want to jump the fuel sender to see if it works you could throw money at the problem by buying a new fuel sender which is not too pricy and put that in there and see if it works. To jump the fuel sender (Anyone correct me if im wrong) I believe you disconnect the sending wire that goes to your fuel sender then send power (12v) to the gauge and if the gauge jumps all the way to full you know it is not your gauge and the problem lies in your fuel sending unit. Just make sure when you see the fuel gauge peg take the power away from it immediately because fuel gauges are not meant to hold 12v and it it simply to test it. If you leave it on there for too long it might fry your gauge and then you would need a new gauge as well haha