when i did my mpfi swap i thought u had to rewire EVERYTHING. so i fucked up blew up an ecu and i had to get the wiring redone for 200. ******* a it sucked ***. u dont have to change everything just cut 2 add 2 and change 2 i believe something like that. its easier than it seems. just dont do what i did.

 

how do you know what "A" "B" and "D" plugs are? is there a picture showing this?

 

When it says unused pin that just means those wires don't do anything anymore. They go to sensors and **** that the DX had that the MPFI does not.

 

For a layout of the ecu plugs,go here:
http://texas.clubsi.com/brandon/crx/wires.jpg

PS>>>djcaseanova>>>>I mailed you some pins with wire this afternoon..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88DXCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
PS&gt;&gt;&gt;djcaseanova&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;I mailed you some pins with wire this afternoon..
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you ever get the envelope?

 

Yeah I got them I believe on Saturday. Its been a while since I've been on the computer, been working on the car, I really appreciate that they worked great!! I got the car running finally, except for one damn ECM code (code 7 - throttle angle), but the TPS sensor is hooked up properly, and wired properly and has been adjusted several times, but still a code 7 remains. I appreciate it! If there is anything I can do for ya, let me know!

 

Cool,I'm glad the post office is still working..
Code 7 troubeshooting:
http://www.binghamtonlife.com/...6.jpg
http://www.binghamtonlife.com/...7.jpg

taken from: http://www.binghamtonlife.com/...t.htm

 

I am using that page, but the problem is.... i don't have a 'test' harness.... does anyone knwo where i can get one? or how to make one?? I just replaced the TPS sensor just in case. It was a TPS sensor I had gotten off of ebay originally on the intake manifold, so maybe it was bad...

 

You can re-calibrate the tps... no need for a test harness, only a multimeter.

Check the middle wire on the TPS. Stick a pin into the TPS connector and do it that way rather than removing the wires from the connector. With the negative you just ground to the chasis. With the TPS closed it should read 0.45V. At WOT it should be about 4.5V. You recalibrate the TPS by turning it slightly on the throttlebody.

Good luck getting it adjusted correctly though! Advance it too much and you'll be overfueling - the ECU will never think the throttle is closed and idle will run rich and the car won't want to engine brake. Keep it retarded too much and the car will be jerky at part throttle because the ECU won't know the throttle is cracked and so it will think the car is idling high + cut fuel. I still have not been able to get this recalibrated correctly so i'm running rich.

 

Well, I did what those links said, and my TPS gets about a 4.9v reading which i did per that link. You're saying to stick a pin in the middle connection and then place the positive to that pin and ground the negative to the chasis right? That should get me .45v but what does that tell me if it is or isn't that voltage?? Also what exactly do you have to recalibrate the TPS for? I mean why would you have to do that? The first time I started the car after doing the SWAP, it flooded, so I am assuming that it was because of that sensor being stuck or uncalibrated properly. Which way do you turn to advance and retard the TPS?? Right now it's about in the center.

 

reading both outer wires would give you a reading of about 4.9v. You place the positive to the middle wire(red and blue i believe). Negative to the chasis. If you reading .45v at idle and 4.5 at WOT, then you set but most likely its not going to be at .45v. If you replace or remove a tps you always have to recalibrate the tps. If it reads above .45v then your advanced. If you are below it is retarded. Advanced it will run rich. The tps connects to the throttle body. When you give it gas the throttlebody moves a rotor on the tps side which tells the ecu to to give more gas. If it isnt adjusted correctly the above will occur. Not sure about which way to advance or retard but you will tell by the voltmeter. I still need to recalibrate mine but I adjusted it well enough to drive. I will be finished recalibrating tomorrow. Let me know if you have more questions.

 

Does this testing of the .45v of the middle wire need to be tested with the car RUNNING?? or with the car in just the on position?? I've tested it with the car in the ON position and nothings showing up for a reading but the outer wires still show 4.9v. I tested the middle wire with the positive and the negative to the chasis but nothing came up in the reading. I then tested it with the car RUNNING and it plugged into the TPS and still no reading from the meter. I am using a needle that I stuck through the wire to ensure a connection with the wires. What's wrong here???

 

BTW, the car is hard starting... that site mentioned something about a dashpot diaphram... what the hell are they reffering too?? I have another manifold for parts i want to try maybe replacing it if all else fails. thanks... a picture of it would be nice so i know what the hell it is.

 

you just need to test with the key in the ON position. Not while the car is running.

 

gotcha, I guess what im asking is does the connection need to be plugged in at the TPS???

 

yes

 

ok i did that just now.... with the car in the on position and the TPS hooked up to the plug. I have a sewing needle in the wire to get a positive connection. Put the positive lead to the needle and the negative to the chasis ground. I got nothing. 0.00 and then it would go to -0.01 but i get a good 4.937 reading on the outter wires.... what's that mean?? I know it's not the TPS, because I replaced the TPS with another one with same result...... what's up with that

 

are you testing the middle wire?

 

yup, testing the middle wire.... does that mean that the connection is bad? I am assuming it's getting no power at all therefore meaning there is a break in the line right? i did have to 'extend' that wire as well to get it to reach the TPS in the MPFI swap... think that might be the problem?.... anyone know which wire that connects to at the ECU in the car??? c12 or c7??? so i can hardwire directly to the ECU wire instead of pulling the manifold and repairing the break.

 

QUOTE=djcaseanova;6962729]Yeah I got them I believe on Saturday. Its been a while since I've been on the computer, been working on the car, I really appreciate that they worked great!! I got the car running finally, except for one damn ECM code (code 7 - throttle angle), but the TPS sensor is hooked up properly, and wired properly and has been adjusted several times, but still a code 7 remains. I appreciate it! If there is anything I can do for ya, let me know![/QUOTE]
So how did u wire the car ?

 

so if i cut the white and red wire to wire in the crank sensor in b10 and b12 will i lose my ac if i cut that red n white wire that goes to b12?

 

a/c has nothing to do with the ecu that's a separate system.