dpfi to mpfi using obd1 injectors
ecu...pm'd ya back after i read all this. sounds to me like a bum ecu but to be sure make sure you have injector pulse. you may not get injector pulse if there is no crank signal so you may want to check the dizzy wiring
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecn8ive »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Isn't there some kind of clicking noise you can hear if they are working. Liking using a flat head or something.
shane
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there sould have to be crank signal before that would occur. and they make automotive stethoscopes so you don't seem like a truly backyard kinda guy.
shane
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there sould have to be crank signal before that would occur. and they make automotive stethoscopes so you don't seem like a truly backyard kinda guy.
Before I get to the problem, let me just state that people shouldn't be swapping injectors so freely, peak hold and saturation injectors will flow a little differently, especially at low pusle widths. To easily tell them apart, peak hold (low resistance) injectors will read about 2.5-3 ohms of resistance while saturation injectors will read about 12-16 ohms. The reason for the injector resistor box is so that too much current doesn't flow through the injector drivers in the ECU and burn them up.
Back to the problem, check that each (non yellow-black) wire going from the injectors traces back to the ecu correctly. And that when you turn the car to the ON position you should have +12V at the other side of the injector (if i'm not mistaken).
Back to the problem, check that each (non yellow-black) wire going from the injectors traces back to the ecu correctly. And that when you turn the car to the ON position you should have +12V at the other side of the injector (if i'm not mistaken).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bunger »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Back to the problem, check that each (non yellow-black) wire going from the injectors traces back to the ecu correctly. And that when you turn the car to the ON position you should have +12V at the other side of the injector (if i'm not mistaken).</TD></TR></TABLE>
there is 12v power on the yellow and black wires. unless there is a bad connection the injector wires are going to the ecu properly
Back to the problem, check that each (non yellow-black) wire going from the injectors traces back to the ecu correctly. And that when you turn the car to the ON position you should have +12V at the other side of the injector (if i'm not mistaken).</TD></TR></TABLE>
there is 12v power on the yellow and black wires. unless there is a bad connection the injector wires are going to the ecu properly
if u crank it over for any more than a normal, quick start, you should be smelling fuel if the injectors are firing.
I hope your not trying to use an obd1 dizzy with an obd0 ecu guy!
I hope your not trying to use an obd1 dizzy with an obd0 ecu guy!
the wiring wasn't good? i have a very similar problem! i need help too! my injectors aren't spraying, but the wiring is good at the injector clip to the ecu. Reads 12v at the ecu and the clip.?
obd1 injectors run on 12V, so wire all 4 of the blk/red wires leading to the resistor box to the 12v wire (the yel/blk in this case). Also volt meter each injector wire that leads to the ecu. Positions a1,a3,a5,a7
Ryan
EDIT: so to sum it all up you want each injector to go to the ecu (colored wire), and the other wires(striped) to a 12v source(the yel/blk on the eng harness).
Ryan
EDIT: so to sum it all up you want each injector to go to the ecu (colored wire), and the other wires(striped) to a 12v source(the yel/blk on the eng harness).
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e jay one
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Sep 10, 2005 11:31 AM




