No matter what I do, the no-start problem intermittently continues. I’ve never seen a problem like this that big enough wire wouldn’t fix! I’m going to install an extra battery with an isolator that will, while cranking, be solely dedicated to either the starter, or fuse box with the original battery connected to the other. And while running, the two will be reconnected automatically via the isolator (which is basically just a solenoid) so that the alternator will be able to charge both of them.

Speaking of electrical stuff.... The electric company called and said that they’ll be out by the end of the week to hook up to my new house!!!!

Got it the A/C hoses and the battery isolator. Plus, a guy from the electric company stopped by today! We’ll have lights at our new house next week!

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/honda-t...bd832a848.jpeg500 amps overkill? “There is no such thing as overkill.”


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/honda-t...28ac289c3a.pngNo, there will be no high side valve. From my experience, I’ve hardly ever had to tap into one; therefore, I deem it superfluous.

Tony, I love your apparent smugness. It reminds me of my dad!

We’ve been working on A/C systems for 15+ years at our garage, and I have yet to run into a system that I cannot pull an adequate (30 inHg) vacuum on with our pump. We have very few (maybe 3 or 4) comebacks for any A/C jobs we’ve ever done.

Speaking of that, I just installed a new condenser on a 2015 Tahoe yesterday afternoon for a special forces agent of the Mississippi Bureau of Investigation.

🤣 It was actually one of his personal vehicles. It had a pinhole in it, but no bullet holes! Those Tahoes have been having condenser issues that I think GM needed to be addressing.

Thanks for the encouraging words! I’ll get some pics of the system after I install everything next week. It looks like I’m going to have to bypass the A/C thermostat at the evaporator core (not the TXV, the electrical part) as this ECU has no way to know whether the A/C switch is on.

Here’s some progress on the A/C. It’s just some wiring where I bypassed the A/C thermostat. I also put the A/C switch inline with the compressor clutch coil.

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Compressor pad fittings
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Fittings on the new compressor
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Bolting on the new compressor

Here are some pics of hose routing:

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/honda-t...cf24df47d.jpeghttps://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/honda-t...34802a171.jpeg
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In all of this, I ended up having to go with a half inch shorter belt so that the alternator pivot towards the engine to lend clearance to the A/C fittings.

Thanks, man! I’m seriously considering getting some insulation wrap for the discharge hose seeing how close it comes to the front PCD.

AWD? I have considered an AWD transmission and the CRV rear end (among some others).... It would be the perfect setup to run the 305hp J37! Can you imagine? A SUPERCHARGED J37 AWD Civic... There are kits to adapt an Eaton M90 supercharger onto a J-series motor!

Maybe you’ll finish yours when I clean mine? :lmao:

Thank you!

I decided to go with the tach and speedo interfaces from Dakota Digital. I calibrated the tach last night and the speedo this morning.



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Installed a double din unit and rear 6x9’s, re-wired my A/C for the 837th time, installed seats, installed new seatbealts that I’ve had since maybe January, reinstalled trim, waiting for my rear seats to come back from the reupholstery shop...

There was something dripping under the car after a parts run this morning... Kinda freaked out for a second, then realized: it’s water from the A/C!!! So ‘cited ‘bout dat A/C!