Just got this 92 accord dx with f22b1 swap running a p0A.Code im throwing is for vtec(21).Question is what all is needed to pin for vtec the soleniod and the switch?i havent found the pin outs for the p0A but ppl are telling me all obd1 vtec ecu's are the same so pin out is A4 for the sol and D6 for the switch.Ok i hooked that up and it thru it in limp mode choppy running and limiter at 3500rpms.Hooked it back up the way it was runs fine just no vtec at all.And if the harness wasnt changed out there should be no wires for those pin locations correct?Ive posted this on CH and CB7tuners and no luck really just want it fixed.So any help please throw it my way!Thanks in advance!

 

Also to add i hard wired the soleniod to make sure it was good and it clicked so im just in need of how to wire the sob up.For pin A4 theres a red wire might be orange and for D6 its a red/black stripe wire.But like i said wired it up and sent it into limp mode.

 

Or the color of the wires at the shock tower for vtec sol and switch would be nice aswell.Ik eg's are o/w and o/blue but is this the same case for the cb7 accords?PLEASE help a fellow honda owner out.

 

F22A1 w/F22B1 head swap: complete.
That FAQ thread didn't have the answer you needed?

 

did you ground the VTEC pressure switch?

 

Prepping the ECU:

This was really easy for me. While I do have brand new pushpins (hey I used to do a lot of motorswaps) I reused what WAS my automatic rear motormount solenoid (this is also the IAB on 90-93 EX models or anything else that was equiped
with IAB) and powersteering (I removed mine) pressure sender pins. If you didn't already know Honda was really nice and you can snap open the connectors on the ECU side and move pins around. No matter WHAT way you decide to do this you need to add two pins: D6 (VTP) and A4 (VTS) [See wiring harness pinout chart I've included]. The VTP ground... well just ground it anywhere. It doesnt matter, its just a simple on/off pressure switch.

NOW for 4th gen owners we get to do a little more work/make a choice. In 1994 Honda decided to swap pins A11 and A6 (EGR & 02 Heater respectivly). To my knowledge this is the only OBDI car Honda did this on. ANYWAY your choices are
as following:

1.) Swap pins A11 & A6 while you have connector "A" apart adding VTP.
2.) Open up the P0A ECU and cut A11 & A6 and reverse them via internal modification (IE: wires crossing them... see attached picture).

I chose option 2 because I do a lot of ECU testing and changing my harnesses pinout for one lousy ECU isnt in the cards. Read more at https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=529272

Ok all in all ive did it right why would it throw its self into limp mode?I pined
A4 & d6 and have the switch grounded out.Does that A11 & A6 apply to me or no?Just trying to figure this out and thanks for the help fellas.