having problem's checking the check engine light
my 1990 honda accord will not start so iam trying to check the cel i put the paper clip and the light is not flashing at all??????need help please??
Does the CEL come on at all?
What are your no start symptoms...does it crank over at all? Is it getting fuel into the cylinders? And is there spark at the plugs?
What are your no start symptoms...does it crank over at all? Is it getting fuel into the cylinders? And is there spark at the plugs?
There are many things which aren't ECM related that can keep a car from starting.
Just how do you mean "Not Start"
No Crank?
Crank / no Start?
P
A solid CEL with the SCS shorted = No code stored on the ECU for the 94-97 Accords. I'm pretty sure it's the same for the 90-93 ECUs as well.
A solid CEL with the KOEO and no SCS shorted = ECU problem.
A solid CEL with the KOEO and no SCS shorted = ECU problem.
yea the light stays on????the car cranks but won't start???i checked for fuel and its getting fuel and spark???last week it started but it did not rev past 3,000rpm?????i don't no wats goin on????
OP: Sounds like you have as indicated in the previous posts, an ecu problem... have anyone you know with an accord who will let you barrow their ecu?
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Sorry to resurect. But i searched, and i found.
I am currently having the same issue with my 90 accord (cb7 chassis) 2.2L F22a1.
No SES code.
Engine ran fine when i left the theater, after warming up, it did this.
The transmission when left in D4 (overdrive) wouldnt go past 3000 RPM (or even lower).
No engine light, no sportshift flashing.
Transmission history: I am having issues with it. It tends to slip when you come to a stop, but then catches when you release the brakes (sounds like a seal might be internally leaking)
Transfered most of the Dex3 that was in there, and replaced it with OEM Honda ATF. Issue still comes up.
Going to check all fluid levels tomorrow (cant tonight, too dark.)
Thanks in advance guys.
I am currently having the same issue with my 90 accord (cb7 chassis) 2.2L F22a1.
No SES code.
Engine ran fine when i left the theater, after warming up, it did this.
The transmission when left in D4 (overdrive) wouldnt go past 3000 RPM (or even lower).
No engine light, no sportshift flashing.
Transmission history: I am having issues with it. It tends to slip when you come to a stop, but then catches when you release the brakes (sounds like a seal might be internally leaking)
Transfered most of the Dex3 that was in there, and replaced it with OEM Honda ATF. Issue still comes up.
Going to check all fluid levels tomorrow (cant tonight, too dark.)
Thanks in advance guys.
Just checked fluids. Oil is fine, tranny is fine.
Pulled the fuse for the ecu (10 mins). we'll see if it resets. Other then that, does anyone else know what might cause this?
Pulled the fuse for the ecu (10 mins). we'll see if it resets. Other then that, does anyone else know what might cause this?
One simple thing that can happen that will cause your car not to start, with no error code, is a bad rotor. If your rotor is slipping on the distributor shaft you will have spark but your car will not start. You can do a simple check for this by removing the distributor cap and see if you can move the rotor around by hand. Just ran into this last week on a 91 Honda.
For what it's worth!
For what it's worth!
One simple thing that can happen that will cause your car not to start, with no error code, is a bad rotor. If your rotor is slipping on the distributor shaft you will have spark but your car will not start. You can do a simple check for this by removing the distributor cap and see if you can move the rotor around by hand. Just ran into this last week on a 91 Honda.
For what it's worth!
For what it's worth!
I reset the ECU today, and it hasnt acted up since. Im guessing just some wierd programming in the ECU. Gonna keep my spare with me just in case.
Btw, if the rotor was slipping inside the cap, it would demolish when it hits one of the studs, or the metal would wear out VERY fast.
The car starts fine also. runs fine in cold mode.
Last edited by js593; Apr 6, 2009 at 03:27 PM.
I dont really think this is a cap and rotor issue. Im getting spark perfectly fine.
I reset the ECU today, and it hasnt acted up since. Im guessing just some wierd programming in the ECU. Gonna keep my spare with me just in case.
Btw, if the rotor was slipping inside the cap, it would demolish when it hits one of the studs, or the metal would wear out VERY fast.
The car starts fine also. runs fine in cold mode.
I reset the ECU today, and it hasnt acted up since. Im guessing just some wierd programming in the ECU. Gonna keep my spare with me just in case.
Btw, if the rotor was slipping inside the cap, it would demolish when it hits one of the studs, or the metal would wear out VERY fast.
The car starts fine also. runs fine in cold mode.
I tried moving the rotor by hand and sure enough it moved, the rotor was slipping on the distributor shaft. Put a new rotor on and put everything back together and the car fired right up.
Good spark doesn't mean anything if it doesn't happen at the right time!
Like I said, for what it's worth.
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chad olson
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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Jan 13, 2009 09:30 AM





