Zeroing cam gears on milled decks
I bought a used block that was sleeved. Unfornately it was shaved down almost to the level of those little circles that are sunken in a bit on the deck (One by the DS motor mount and two by the dizzy and VTEC solenoid). My guess was 30 thousansths milled of. I heard that for every 12 thousandths it changes cam timing by one degree. My head gasket is 6 thousanths thicker than stock. so .030 -.006 =.024 = 2 degrees. I did +2.5 intake and +2 exhaust. Then I set the timing. I did a couple 3rd gear pulls on the highway, but I didn't notice any difference. Did I change them in the right direction ?
more info:
B18C block 9.4:1, B16A head, cometic .036 HG, CTR cams, 500 miles on motor (my pre turbo break in)
more info:
B18C block 9.4:1, B16A head, cometic .036 HG, CTR cams, 500 miles on motor (my pre turbo break in)
Yes, you changed them in the right direction. If you shorten the distance between the head and block (like you did), you advance the cam gears.
Sonny
Thanks, I'm going to the track friday, the motor feels great NA, I can harly wait for my credit card to heal and finish it up.
My deck was milled .003" should I even notice a difference with lining up the cam gears and timing belt? Im having a problem getting the timing belt perfect and wondering if this is the cause. Are cam gears nessecary anytime the deck is touched?
a good way to do this, if you have adjustablke cam gears, is to set the crank at TDC #1 and then loosen the cam gear adjusting bolts, then advance the cams till you can slide a dowel into the cam locking holes on the cam caps,
this is the easiest method i have found
this is the easiest method i have found
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R@mon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a good way to do this, if you have adjustablke cam gears, is to set the crank at TDC #1 and then loosen the cam gear adjusting bolts, then advance the cams till you can slide a dowel into the cam locking holes on the cam caps,
this is the easiest method i have found </TD></TR></TABLE>
best way to zero the cams with deck height change
this is the easiest method i have found </TD></TR></TABLE>
best way to zero the cams with deck height change
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im having a problem getting the timing belt perfect and wondering if this is the cause. Are cam gears nessecary anytime the deck is touched?</TD></TR></TABLE> yeah and they made a big difference on my motor, i had a cometic (I think the thickness is .053) headgasket and i set the cam gears at zero, and with the formula i need 2 or 3 degrees adavance. I dynoed at 180 hp at 10psi on a b16a, twice . Advanced the intake cam 3 degrees only, next run i turned 235 hp with out any other changes. Seems high but, it found lost power and i had a thickness changes. I would be intresting to see other people dyno results before and after advancing the cams to compensate.
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