This was the first dyno, with basemap, Uberdata. Look at what happens when it hits VTEC.



This was the last dyno made with Uberdata. Softened up the line before VTEC, but it still goes absolutely heywire after VTEC.



This was with an AFC tune and VTEC set at 6,500rpms.

What the hell is causing me to make absolutely no power at all? SiR II motor, T3 turbo, 6psi, 450cc injectors. Couple tunes with Uberdata, switched to AFC.

 

Could it possibly be plug gap? But I def think it has something to do with ignition. Is everything in check?

 

what compression are you runnin? Looks like an ignition problem on the base map.

 

Plug gap is .030

Even then, we modified the hell out of the basemap... the 2nd dyno is the modified base map.

Stock motor... 10.4:1 compression.

 

Something is definitley wrong. Possibly change cap, rotor and all that junk. There is definitley something wrong. There is another car that is having the same problem when vtec is coming in.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93turbo16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Something is definitley wrong. Possibly change cap, rotor and all that junk. There is definitley something wrong. There is another car that is having the same problem when vtec is coming in.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Motor pulled strong before turbo. Rotor/cap prolly need to be replaced, but I can't see it stealing that much power.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mario. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Motor pulled strong before turbo. Rotor/cap prolly need to be replaced, but I can't see it stealing that much power.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why couldn't it. Changing timing is how you make power in the first place.....I agree with everyone. Get new, plugs, rotor, and cap

 

your wg dumptube opening isnt next to the compressor inlet is it?

 

Well, I'll give it a shot.

No, it's not near the compressor inlet... and it dumps back into the exhaust.

 

do you have a boost gauge hooked up? Doesnt even look like your making boost.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1bar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you have a boost gauge hooked up? Doesnt even look like your making boost. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep, she makes 6psi.

 

Definintly looks like an ignition problem. Check all that first.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC_MShue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Definintly looks like an ignition problem. Check all that first. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Any more specifics??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mario. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yep, she makes 6psi. </TD></TR></TABLE>


wow something is def wrong haha. Goodluck figurin it all out

Maybe you can borrow a friends dizzy?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1bar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow something is def wrong haha. Goodluck figurin it all out

Maybe you can borrow a friends dizzy? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks.

BTW, I used ECUControl for datalogging today with Uberdata. Some cool ****! It showed 4psi of boost.. which is right, because I am at altitude there is about a 2psi loss. Something about the MAP/MAF/ differences. So yea, I know it's making boost... just gotta figure it out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mario. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any more specifics??</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just do what everyone said. Replace your plugs, rotor, wires, etc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC_MShue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just do what everyone said. Replace your plugs, rotor, wires, etc. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Will do, thanks.

Can someone explain to me a misfire? When I had a timing light hooked up to first... the light would blink normally... and then skip. Like an uneven beat. Is that a misfire?

 

There is an inductive pickup on the spark plug wire that catches the ignition event as shows it as a blink on the timing light. If the inductive pickup misses an ignition signal it could show up as no blink, or if there was a problem with the plug wire or ignition system closer to the distributor (before where you placed the inductive clamp) then it could also show up as a misfire. Or if there was bad connection to ground the circuit won't be complete and it won't fire, etc.

Misfire feels as if the engine pops or lets go for a second from my experience. In short, if the engine actually misfires, you'll hear the engine skip a beat.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raene &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is an inductive pickup on the spark plug wire that catches the ignition event as shows it as a blink on the timing light. If the inductive pickup misses an ignition signal it could show up as no blink, or if there was a problem with the plug wire or ignition system closer to the distributor (before where you placed the inductive clamp) then it could also show up as a misfire. Or if there was bad connection to ground the circuit won't be complete and it won't fire, etc.

Misfire feels as if the engine pops or lets go for a second from my experience. In short, if the engine actually misfires, you'll hear the engine skip a beat. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok, I had that... it sounded like it came more from the exhaust though than the engine itself. But regardless... it happened at idle. Any recommendations on fixing that??

 

Just the regular stuff! Clean the grounds, try new plugs, check the cap and rotor, new plug wires, etc. If it's still misfiring try another distributor (swap one from a friend's car).

There are actually different kinds of misfiring - lean misfiring vs a spark misfire. If you're not seeing it spark through the timing light and the engine misses, then you can be pretty sure it's an ignition problem, but it's also possible the misfire is due to running too lean. That kind of misfire would show up as really lean plugs (white).

 

Well, plugs were in good condition, so it's not leaning out. I guess I will be swapping distributors from a friends car today.

 

looks to me that your a/f is going way rich. that might be a deception because of the misfire youre having, but id try to get the a/f dialed in, then continue diagnosing. just my .02. good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nvmyb20hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks to me that your a/f is going way rich. that might be a deception because of the misfire youre having, but id try to get the a/f dialed in, then continue diagnosing. just my .02. good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>

We tried to lean it way out, and advance the hell out of the ignition and it did absolutely nothing. Once it hit VTEC, that's how it was.

Let me grab my laptop and get the BIN's off so you guys can check it out.

 

Here are all the bins that were used. Bin 1 is the base map I started with.

http://www.whereisluigi.com/misc/tunes/

 

What version are you opening this with?

Looks like 1.66 to me. Your base map ignition is way too retarded but MAC7.bin looks good. I see nothing wrong and with closed loop disabled it should follow those maps. I don't know what to tell you except to check your ignition because it looks like that is your problem.