So I have a Boost guage, EGT, oil temp and pressure. I have them all wired up so that they work and all but I need to wire up the lights on them so that I can see them at night. What I would like is that they turn on when I turn on my headlights or parking lights which ever is easier. BTW this is in a 93' Si Hatch. Can anyone off a suggestion on how to make this happen? Is there a way to use one of the open slots that run along the bottom of the fuse box? Let me know how you guys have the lights on your guages wired. If all else fails I will just wire them to be always on but like I said I would prefer to have them come on when I turn on the headlights.

 

It's super easy. All you have to do is run the power wire for the lights to your fusebox, to the fuse that is marked parking lamps, or headlights. Whichever one works best for you. Good luck!

wrong forum btw... but I won't hate cuz you said you had a boost gauge =D

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jagojon3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's super easy. All you have to do is run the power wire for the lights to your fusebox, to the fuse that is marked parking lamps, or headlights. Whichever one works best for you. Good luck!

wrong forum btw... but I won't hate cuz you said you had a boost gauge =D</TD></TR></TABLE>

The only reason I asked in this forum is becuase it is the most likely to have people that have the guages I am asking about. Thanks for the info but when you say "to the fuse that is marked parking lamps, or headlights" what exactly do you mean? are you talking about the actual fuse location or what? Maybe a pic would help here.

 

i hooked up my "lights" to the dimmer switch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Unjockable &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i hooked up my "lights" to the dimmer switch. </TD></TR></TABLE>

In that case they are always on though correct?

 

Yes, to the actual fuse. Take the fuse out, wrap the end of the wire around one of the terminals on the fuse, stick the fuse back in. Might be a little harder to push back in with the extra wire on it, but it will work perfectly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jagojon3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, to the actual fuse. Take the fuse out, wrap the end of the wire around one of the terminals on the fuse, stick the fuse back in. Might be a little harder to push back in with the extra wire on it, but it will work perfectly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have 4 wires though from 4 different guages I don't think there is going to be any way to get all 4 into that spot and still get the fuse in there.

 

Splice them all into one wire, then run that one wire into the fuse. Cmon that was easy!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jagojon3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Splice them all into one wire, then run that one wire into the fuse. Cmon that was easy!</TD></TR></TABLE>

That will be last ditch effort but thanks for the input . Is there anyone that knows of anohter way?

 

Bump

 

My suggestion would be to solder the 4 positive wires for the gauge lights into one wire. Then put a female spade connector on the end of that one wire. Now find the fuse for your parking lights and put a fuse tap on it then plug in your one wire with the female spade plug and plug it into the fuse tap.

gimme a couple of minutes to find pics online of a fuse tap and the spade connector I'm taking about.

 

ok here is a pic of a fuse tap on a fuse.

Take your fuse tap and put one end into the one wire with the spade connector on it. Put the fuse tap into that spade connector and crimp it down so the spade connector doesnt come out. Then put the fuse tap onto your fuse and plug it back up.

You should be able to find these at any NAPA or maybe Radioshack.

FUSE TAP


FEMALE SPADE CONNECTOR

 

Mehh.... I just tapped my lights on teh gagues directly to the swithced power wire onto the gauges as well. so they are on whenever car is on.. I like it more that way anyways.. and if a bulb burns out. replace it. That's what extras are for.

 

don't u guys have open 12v sources in your fuse boxes??? in my prelude there is a couple open places. One for 12v constant, 2 12v ignition's, and 1 12v lighting.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flip1199 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">don't u guys have open 12v sources in your fuse boxes??? in my prelude there is a couple open places. One for 12v constant, 2 12v ignition's, and 1 12v lighting.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Yeah I think that is what the open slots all along the bottom of the fuse box is. You can plug on of those female connecters mentioned above into them. The only problem is that I can't figure out what they are by looking at the wiring diagram. So if anyone could fill me in on that for a 93 hatch I would appreciate that otherwise I will lookinto the fuse tap idea.

 

wiring to fuse box is GHETTO. I'd just combine all the grounds together and ground to the chassis somewhere nearby. Take all the hot wires, combine them and either tap to one of the illumination lights (like around the cig lighter or ashtry). If you think that'll pull to much current through, then use a relay to get the signal from the illumination lights and get the power from the cig lighter (you're not going to pull too much current through that circuit with a couple lights...)

 

I see a red/blk wire coming off of the No. 19 (10A) fuse on the under-dash fuse box for the dashlights. It's in the Helm service manual in the interior electrical wiring diagrams section.

Check it for 12VDC+ when you turn the light switch on. Unplug the socket so you can figure out which side is behind the fuse. You wouldn't want to accidentally wire is before the fuse and melt the circuit down.

I also recommend using a relay for both the illumination and IGN power. I use DEI SPST 30A relays and feed the 12VDC+ from the battery and use a ground close to the mounting spot for the relays. I get them from the install bay at Circuit City. I'm sure Best Buy or an electronics store would have something similar. You'll need two if you want to use relays for the illumination and IGN power.

 

easiest way to check is to get a test light, that's what i did. jsut hold it to the connector and if the light goes on in the test light when u swith your car lights on then it's the 12v lighting source.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flip1199 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">easiest way to check is to get a test light, that's what i did. jsut hold it to the connector and if the light goes on in the test light when u swith your car lights on then it's the 12v lighting source.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good idea I will try this tomorrow on my day off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flip1199 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">easiest way to check is to get a test light, that's what i did. jsut hold it to the connector and if the light goes on in the test light when u swith your car lights on then it's the 12v lighting source.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Worked like a charm dude thanks In case anyone wants to know it is opening #2 on the fuse box. It is one of the numberd ones that runs along the top of the fuse box where you can plug one of the female connectors in.

 

Yeah I was going to suggest the #2 spade terminal at the fuse box. This is the parking light output...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ralphie14 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Worked like a charm dude thanks In case anyone wants to know it is opening #2 on the fuse box. It is one of the numberd ones that runs along the top of the fuse box where you can plug one of the female connectors in.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thank you for wiring them up correctly... you will thank yourself later for doing it right...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ1 wilcox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thank you for wiring them up correctly... you will thank yourself later for doing it right...

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly and they come on when the parking lights come on I forgot to say that also.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flip1199 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">easiest way to check is to get a test light, that's what i did. jsut hold it to the connector and if the light goes on in the test light when u swith your car lights on then it's the 12v lighting source.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont have a test light and I dont feel like rigging one up. Can I use my Actron autotroubleshooter instead? if so what function would I use? I have to use the instructions manual to use it cause I'm still a little bit of an electronics noob. But I would just measure the DC voltage right? so that's the function I would use.

I thought that there were only 12V constant and 12V ignition switched in the fuse box. I didn't know there was a 12V lighting (not talking about fuses). I might have to go check this out for my gauge set up too.

 

dont really know what a Actron autotroubleshooter is but if it reads voltage you can do it.

you can also do this with a voltmeter. it's the same principle. set it up to read voltz. ground the black connector, then touch the red connector to the open male connectors, whichever one reeds around 12v when u turn on your light is the 12v lighting