Hello guys.
I have an EG6(b16a2) i plan on turboing with 250 whp target(ditched the 450 whp idea...)
Now whats the deal?
After blowing headgasket and running like this for 1000 miles(previous owner) ,i changed headgasket/milled the head, bam the same thing.
It pushes water again so ill need to take down the engine to mill the block to get it straight.Estimated compression will be around 11:1 cause head
was milled a lot and it will need some surface taken off the block as well.
Questions:
~~~>Would you trust stock pistons at 250 whp at 11:1?
People here(Greece) say it may crack the piston ring seats on stock pistons...
The engine altho it has 150k miles it does not consume oil.
Would a rering help by any means?Since i will take the engine to the machine shop
anyway.

Sorry about my weird english anyway.

 

I am over 300 whp and a tad over 11:1 on stock ITR pistons. I think your problems are more tune related.

 

^^this x2

 

A fresh set of rings and a hone wouldn't hurt if you have it apart anyways. This would also allow you to set the piston ring gaps to turbo engine specifications. Most of the time the ring lands break due to the ring ends coming into contact with each other and NOT because the rails are extremely brittle. Honda builds these engines tight from the factory for a reason and is in part why they last so long.

You will be perfectly fine (assuming you have the correct fueling) with running 11:1 compression on stock pistons with a good tune.

 

Ok ill give it a shot and rering.What piston ring gaps would you recommend
for stock b16 piston for lets say 250-300 whp?
Setup will be with GSR cams
Supertech valvetrain
Cast mani
~40 lbs/min turbo.

Thanks for your time guys but this info is kinda rare here.

 

Bore X at least 0.005" for the top and 0.0055" for the second ring. Some go as high as 0.006" / 0.007" but for your power level you don't need to worry about that craziness. Either way you do in fact want the 2nd ring gap larger than the top ring to prevent ring flutter. Typically 0.015" min gap for the oil control rings although I have seen some aftermarket manufacturers say as little as 0.010" - don't be surprised if out of the box they measure like 0.030" or so. Also, the 2nd ring will sometimes be bigger than your target gap and this is OK just try to keep them all even. If it is a very large gap of 0.006 - 0.010" off target then I would consider buying a new set of rings.

To each his own though - you may get 100 different answers on this subject as it is builders preferences. I like my motors like I like my women - tight (and no, the specs I gave aren't tight for your goals at all - stock specs would be considered tight).

There is an old saying for this kind of stuff: "Build it loose and nobody will know; build it tight and everyone will know."

 

Thank a lof for your data.Ill take the block out (engine is allready out) this week.Ill update with what we will find...
Ods are 75% warped block 25% sinked/damaged sleeve.This time i wont put my money on calculating block straightness with filler...

 

Back from the dead, i reopen my thread.
I had to buy another car and also a del sol shell so the turbo project was paused for 2 years.
Back to the subject.
My old engine went into my del sol. The engine has 185 compression across all cylinders.

I have all the turbo "kit" ready.
TD05H-152G6-12T (evo X) using internal wastegate
Divided 1-4 / 2-3 manifold, 3 inch downpipe.
440cc bosch injectors
~400hp capable intercooler
Evo 9 fuel pump.
also the car has 3inch full exhaust.

The question lies on the compression ratio again.The car head was miled a lot and also the block had to be milled.
The estimated compression is 11:1 +

~~My new question is:

Should i get a cometic mls headgasket to lower the cr to at least like 9.5 - 10 ?
The tuner is OK not bad, not super good.
Target is again around 250wheel hp.


Thank you for your time guys.

 

There shouldn't be a problem as long as the proper fuel is used according to the compression and psi being ran. Higher psi will raise IATs but at your goal you shouldn't have to worry about that problem. 250 should be cake for anybody who can tune fairly well.
Was the engine degreed in?
Head and block machined = surely off some degrees.

 

With that power goal you are fine, I would say its best to stay with an OEM headgasket make sure you get ARP headstuds.

I wouldnt lower the compression it will be much more responsive at your current CR

EDIT: are you sure your at 11:1? thats quite a bit of milling. OEM b16 = 10.3:1

 

The cams are the oem so not corrected.With my calculations i will probvably have both cams retarted by 2 degrees if i remember correct it gives top end so "no problem with that".


Yes the compression is around 11:1.The head is closed with oem head studs.Ill change them to APR soon.But with 250whp thats not what im afraid of.Im afraid of detonation.The good thing is that with the divided setup using the oem mitsubishi internal wastegate, cross cylinder contamination will not be an issue.