wd40 ???????
i have a built b16T block with no car to put it in yet. the cylinders have been sprayed with wd40 is it ok to clean the block the run it???
the motor is already built it just doesnt have a head on it..
thanxs guys
the motor is already built it just doesnt have a head on it..
thanxs guys
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .EnzoSpeed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Coat the cyl. walls with fresh oil before the initial start-up. WD40 is too thin.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I disagree. I was actually recommended by many well known engine builders to use WD40 rather than engine oil in assembly. The only oil I used was on bolts, and I also put a light coating on the piston skirts before I put them into each cylinder.
The reasoning behind this is to seat the rings quicker-- less lubrication, faster seating. I know this type of thinking would normally be berserk, but oil will see the cylinder walls in no time anyhow.
I disagree. I was actually recommended by many well known engine builders to use WD40 rather than engine oil in assembly. The only oil I used was on bolts, and I also put a light coating on the piston skirts before I put them into each cylinder.
The reasoning behind this is to seat the rings quicker-- less lubrication, faster seating. I know this type of thinking would normally be berserk, but oil will see the cylinder walls in no time anyhow.
the motor was well stored and put together perfect because i built it
i had taken the head off because of a blown valve seal. so i have been spraying the cylinder walls and head with wd40 to keep the rust off. but i am going to definetly clean and lubricate the motor with a lite coat of engine oil before assembly again.
i had taken the head off because of a blown valve seal. so i have been spraying the cylinder walls and head with wd40 to keep the rust off. but i am going to definetly clean and lubricate the motor with a lite coat of engine oil before assembly again.
Yea its OK to run. You don't need any oil on the walls before you start it. As stated the WD40 is only to keep the rust off till you assemble it, that is all.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .EnzoSpeed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It takes a new motor as much as 30 seconds of priming to build oil pressure. That's not what I'd consider "no time."</TD></TR></TABLE>
OMG you are so smart, cant put anything past you. Tell me Mr. know-it-all, how is it that oil gets onto you cylinder walls when the engine has built oil pressure? Guess what, it doesn't!
There is absolutely NO NEED for oil on the cylinder walls, EVER! Not when the car has oil pressure and not when the car has -0- pressure. The only thing you want in there is air, and hopefully some atomized gas. Adding oil will only slow down the ring seating process with CAN LEAD to improperly seated rings which will result in poor leakdown. 
Since you clearly don't understand the purpose of the WD40, ITS TO KEEP THE RUST OFF! That is the ONLY reason its even there. The cylinder requires no lubrication... Unlike your girl from what I'm told.
It takes a new motor as much as 30 seconds of priming to build oil pressure. That's not what I'd consider "no time."</TD></TR></TABLE>
OMG you are so smart, cant put anything past you. Tell me Mr. know-it-all, how is it that oil gets onto you cylinder walls when the engine has built oil pressure? Guess what, it doesn't!
There is absolutely NO NEED for oil on the cylinder walls, EVER! Not when the car has oil pressure and not when the car has -0- pressure. The only thing you want in there is air, and hopefully some atomized gas. Adding oil will only slow down the ring seating process with CAN LEAD to improperly seated rings which will result in poor leakdown. 
Since you clearly don't understand the purpose of the WD40, ITS TO KEEP THE RUST OFF! That is the ONLY reason its even there. The cylinder requires no lubrication... Unlike your girl from what I'm told.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboteener »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use WD40 or a light coat of transmission fluid. Works fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
atf
thats what i use. but when "storing" a block i will apply wd-40 with generosity
atf
thats what i use. but when "storing" a block i will apply wd-40 with generosity
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White Smoke »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">r:
Since you clearly don't understand the purpose of the WD40, ITS TO KEEP THE RUST OFF! That is the ONLY reason its even there. The cylinder requires no lubrication... Unlike your girl from what I'm told.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That might be the GAYEST thing ever posted on HT, b/c she carries lube in her purse
Thats terrible.
Since you clearly don't understand the purpose of the WD40, ITS TO KEEP THE RUST OFF! That is the ONLY reason its even there. The cylinder requires no lubrication... Unlike your girl from what I'm told.
</TD></TR></TABLE>That might be the GAYEST thing ever posted on HT, b/c she carries lube in her purse
Thats terrible.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jean Luc Picard »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WD40 is not a lubricant...its a water displacing agent</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is that the technical term for kerosene, Captain?
I didn't do that as well as .EnzoSpeed, did I? Anyone care to critique my form?
Is that the technical term for kerosene, Captain?
I didn't do that as well as .EnzoSpeed, did I? Anyone care to critique my form?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White Smoke »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
OMG you are so smart, cant put anything past you. Tell me Mr. know-it-all, how is it that oil gets onto you cylinder walls when the engine has built oil pressure? Guess what, it doesn't!
There is absolutely NO NEED for oil on the cylinder walls, EVER! Not when the car has oil pressure and not when the car has -0- pressure. The only thing you want in there is air, and hopefully some atomized gas. Adding oil will only slow down the ring seating process with CAN LEAD to improperly seated rings which will result in poor leakdown. 
Since you clearly don't understand the purpose of the WD40, ITS TO KEEP THE RUST OFF! That is the ONLY reason its even there. The cylinder requires no lubrication... Unlike your girl from what I'm told.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are definately confusing dumping oil into the combustion chamber with lubricationg the cylinder walls. Ever try rubbing bare aluminum on bare iron at a 875 FEET PER MINUTE (speed of a honda piston at 1500rpm)? Ever wonder why they call the lowest rings oil control rings? Ever expose a thin film of a petrolium-based product to 1500 degrees? It will burn off the compression rings before you can say "Whitesmoke is a degenerate retard" - try it.
But back to the topic of which type of oil to use - I wouldn't use wd40, as kerosene is good as a degrease despite coming from crude oil; its much like gasoline in that sense. Auto trans fluid is what a lot of people I know use - it prevents rust, has a very tough film, and won't wash the oil off the cylinders once it starts flying up there. The best thing it was designed as a lubricant. Wd40's uses include cleaning dried bugs from bumpers and killing small animals. As my motor's bores are devoid of dried bugs before assembling, I'd rather have a longer breakin time than scuffed pistons. But then again, as long as it doesn't develpe more than a handful of full-length scratches that can be felt with your fingernail, your okay, right?
Otherwise use what marine people use for storing motors - fogging oil. You spray it into though the plug hole, rotate it a bit, and your golden for a few months.
OMG you are so smart, cant put anything past you. Tell me Mr. know-it-all, how is it that oil gets onto you cylinder walls when the engine has built oil pressure? Guess what, it doesn't!
There is absolutely NO NEED for oil on the cylinder walls, EVER! Not when the car has oil pressure and not when the car has -0- pressure. The only thing you want in there is air, and hopefully some atomized gas. Adding oil will only slow down the ring seating process with CAN LEAD to improperly seated rings which will result in poor leakdown. 
Since you clearly don't understand the purpose of the WD40, ITS TO KEEP THE RUST OFF! That is the ONLY reason its even there. The cylinder requires no lubrication... Unlike your girl from what I'm told.
</TD></TR></TABLE>You are definately confusing dumping oil into the combustion chamber with lubricationg the cylinder walls. Ever try rubbing bare aluminum on bare iron at a 875 FEET PER MINUTE (speed of a honda piston at 1500rpm)? Ever wonder why they call the lowest rings oil control rings? Ever expose a thin film of a petrolium-based product to 1500 degrees? It will burn off the compression rings before you can say "Whitesmoke is a degenerate retard" - try it.
But back to the topic of which type of oil to use - I wouldn't use wd40, as kerosene is good as a degrease despite coming from crude oil; its much like gasoline in that sense. Auto trans fluid is what a lot of people I know use - it prevents rust, has a very tough film, and won't wash the oil off the cylinders once it starts flying up there. The best thing it was designed as a lubricant. Wd40's uses include cleaning dried bugs from bumpers and killing small animals. As my motor's bores are devoid of dried bugs before assembling, I'd rather have a longer breakin time than scuffed pistons. But then again, as long as it doesn't develpe more than a handful of full-length scratches that can be felt with your fingernail, your okay, right?
Otherwise use what marine people use for storing motors - fogging oil. You spray it into though the plug hole, rotate it a bit, and your golden for a few months.



