Hey guys so im planning on going turbo on my em1. And im needing help in understanding which turbo will be best for my goals and car.

My goals:
250-350whp
Daily driver

I need help in understanding which parts are compatible with each other as fast as turbos and waste gates go also which turbo to select.

Engine thats in the car now is a b16 with a jdm gsr block all stock, with b16 tranny. Is the motor safe to build with turbo and still running vtec?

Also cr should I aim for? What sleeeves do I use basically internally for the engine what should I get?

Thanks for any help and advice im a total noob when it comes tk turbo builds so everything will be appreciated

 

Everything you wanted to know, but were too afraid to ask!

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/%2A%2A%2Aforced-induction-forum-faq%2A%2A%2A-1024174/

 

Thanks for that but quick I wasn't able to finish reading the article about the proper way to build gsr I'm at work but a quick question what can I do as far as sleeves would it be safe using the oem?

 

Healthy, stock motor with ARP head studs and rod bolts will be good to 350whp maximum. Keep it around 300whp with a proper tune.

 

A healthy, stock engine with a proper tune will make that power with ease. I ran my bone stock GSR at 315whp/216wtq for 2 years without a problem. There is no sense in building the bottom end.

-T3 Super 60, T3/T04e 50 trim .63ar, GT3255b/e, etc (there are several options to pick from)
-Shorty ramhorn manifold, 3" dp and exhaust
-550cc injectors and Walbro 255
-GM 3bar map
-The rest is details...

 

this!

until it it blows a ring, or you spin a bearing, then the real build begins. Boost is a baaaad thing op, once you get a taste, you want the entire glass and will forever be thirsty.

 

I'm sure I'll be thirsty that's why I'm aiming for a turbo that can give me more power but not until I do the real deal build. I would only want to push 25psi for track use and about 15psi for dd safely

 

We have made 4-450 on a couple different stock gsr ebgines with head studs one is still going and its been over a year that one makes a little over 400.... the other got pushed to far at the track.

 

O ok well I was planning on ordering cp pistons and was looking at the same ones use in this thread: http://forums.evans-tuning.com/viewt...r+engine+build but was wondering why he used 81.5mm size when they offer standard as well I just want to know the difference so I can have the knowledge and not order something that won't last.

 

And what should I do as far as crankshaft just leave it oem and micropolish and exactly does that do?

 

micropolish just means that the journals are cleaned and polished to accept new bearings. If a lot of material on the journal needs to be removed, the size of the bearing may have to change.

 

1000% true. I got my first taste of boost with my 87 Supra Turbo and have not stopped wanting boost since.

 

At this point with the top notch tuning these days the pistons are not the weak point. Believe it or not the sleeves and the rods are going to be the limiting factors.... at least that's what I have come to see.

 

Would a b20 be just as good? Or would I have to put more into thebuild before I can dd it on 15 or 20lbs of boost?

 

No, keep the motor you have.

 

better suspension and brakes should be done when adding 3x the power..clutch & motor mounts too

 

Plus one. Dont over look the other things.

 

Of course I'm still working on my suspension in a few weeks I plan on ordering koni yellows. And I want to get motor mounts but what do I get 2 bolt or 3

 

Should I also consider swapping my head from the b16 to gsr to have the full gsr?

Also can someone give me the differencs or benefits of running bigger pistons then standard?

 

There is no advantage to chaning to a full gsr head unless the sole purpose is to raise some compression in your build.

There is also no large advantage to running a larger piston unless you also increase the stroke of the engine, giving a true increase in displacement. Even going to the largest bore with no additional stroke my only increase torque by 20ft/lbs. While bore and stroke together adds up to possibly 100ft/lbs of torque.

The reason people use 81.5 on a stock sleeve is in the event they had to hone out the cylinder to get a fresh surface for a build with a new piston.

 

I have a bored and stroked motor and I would suggest keeping the bore as small as possible that way if it needs to be honed in the future the bottom end wont be a waste after one rebuild.

 

And how would I increase the stroke? and I figure having a full gsr will be easier to not get parts confused with compared to having a b16 head and gsr bottom

 

You can use LS/B20 Crank and rod length in order to change that displacement. (which is the safest stroke I would use for a turbocharged engine. I would then use a $12 Golden Eagle oil squirter block kit to avoid the possibility of interference. And no, if you're using a forged piston you do not need the squirters at all.

 

also, PSI means absolutely nothing- 15 - 20 psi on one turbo will flow less CFM than 15-20 PSI on a larger turbo. More CFM into the combustion chamber = more power. Same psi on a GT35R will yield more power than the same psi on a GT28R.

Just a little more info. Pick a turbo that will meet your longer term power goals, if you are building a motor eventually, you will want more power, which will mean you will probably need a turbocharger that will be efficient in a different range. Make sense?

 

Would the b20 crank fit without further modifications to the block? I think I'll be good leaving the strike alone and just boring out .5mm to fit those pistons in and call it a day. And I was told a block guard is highly recommended correct.

And yes when it comes to the turbo I do plan on getting one that will further feed my power hunger if needs be.