ive had a ton of turbo parts from time to time but never pulled the trigger to get them all. So here is my goal for the setup.
275-300whp on 6-8psi. 12 sec car.

Gsr motor,stock block
blox type a cams -HAVE-
t3/to4e 57 trim_____ pretty much think imma lean towards the gt28rs for the power i want
65mm throttle body
rc autoworks miniram manifold
38mm tial wg
50mm tial bov
3inch downpipe
3inch exhaust
cft intercooler -HAVE-
ported and gasketmatched box intake manifold
cam gears
neptune/ectune/hondata - undecided

max flow package ported head by cccylinderhead


ideas or advice is welcome

 

don't forget a good clutch and flywheel....but you are on the right track. you may reach your goal depending on what car you planning on stuffing that setup in.

 

got a stage 2 comp clutch with a lightweight flywheel. i think the clutch will be able to hold

 

UPDATE: got a cft intercooler, told to be good to 400hp


Thinkin of running a max flow ported head from cccylinderheads for some better uptop flow.

change out to supertech valvetrain so i can rev it to 8500rpm.

again advice would be cool

 

for 275-300whp on that setup, don't waste your money on the "ported head". Supertech valvetrain is an option, but not needed, as on a 57 trim, power tapers off at about 7800rpms anyway. get a better clutch and use the rest of the money for the small items on your setup to make sure there are no leaks or issues. Then tune.

 

I don't think cams are necessary, just stick with GSR cams and save yourself some money. I made 400 with them on a Garrett 60-1.

As far as tuning software I would say Hondata is the better bet, stick with your roots

Best of luck with your build!!

 

the cams are already in the car i did a little while ago. and if it tapers off down there maybe ill got with a 60 trim or so. dont think a ported head will be worth the cash?

 

One suggestion i have is to get a GM 3bar map sensor now. I tuned originally without one which limited my tune to ~11psi or less. I could have easily made more power safely on the stock block, but was unable to turn the boost up any further. Once i became bored with the power level, i had to purchase the 3bar and completely retune my car since the scaling on a 3bar is much different than on the OEM map sensor. Its a $80 part that is well worth the investment. My method cost me about $200 more than if i would have bought it in the first place.

 

car wont see over 10psi at anytime man so the map sensor wouldnt help me at all. i dont plan on going bigger at any time. just want to get it turboed once and then go on to different things

 

I'm sure that 10psi will be more than enough to make your goals, but i dont see why you would limit yourself to within the confines of the stock MAP. Maybe you know what you want better than i do, but i thought i'd give you a little advice that i could have used way back when...

 

ya man i totally dont mind the advice at all. definetely looking for input at all times. but i figure i can make the 275-300whp goal without getting to 10psi or over 11. so trying not to waste lil more money u know how it is

 

just get the map sensor now. schister is giving you good advice. you can get plug and play bolt up map sensors for less than $80.

 

ya mite be a good idea. thats probably the last thing ill go and get. im debating on to port the head or not atm. Seein if its worth the money im going to have to dish out for it. Otherwise im set in what i need just need to start getting things.

 

you wont need to port the head. Save that money for something more important. Just get the map already, ive seen plenty of cars on stock map sensors where for some weird reason the map freaks out at around 9psi.

 

Won't matter at that point. stick with the 57 trim. Nothing you can do to taper that off right now until you get over about 60mm or more. Ported head not worth the cash on a Honda VTEC B-series.

 

im most likely going to run a gt28rs because i have no want to go past 300whp. and the ported heads an idea to get some extra power because i already have cams.

 

Rethinkin the ported head because of the cost but well c how winter treats us. anyone have dynos of the gt28rs on there setups?

 

Guess this is going to take longer than i have ever thought. only real update is the decision to run vband wastegate 38 or 44mm still undecided

 

You will have better boost control with the 44 but the new mv-s is pretty sweet

 

For the price of your port & polish, you could get a nice set of traction bars! Listen to Shodan & Schister a little more. For 300 ponies, you didn't need the Blox As nor do you need the port & polish job. I'd get the 3bar, traction bar setup, and then tune it. After you're done with that, spend some money on seat time. What good will be that 20hp gain of a port & polish job be if you can't put the power to the wheels? Traction is your #1 friend since you will have the power.

 

for your power goals you do not need a Intake manifold, cam gears or a throttle body........you will need at least a stage 3 clutch though. Go with either Hondata or Neptune. Injectors is a must too

 

blox A's are already in the car, so im not removing them to put in stock cams, i see that as ****in pointless. Yes traction bars are always a good idea. ive definetely been thinking about a quaife lsd to get a good launch. 3bar is always an option. Port and polish is definetely last on my list to none because of how much it cost so well c in the summer. And ya the new mv-s and mv-r are really nice man

 

intake manifolds already on, along with the throttle body. And are you saying there pointless for peak hs or power under the curve cuz im not looking at omg 300hp but my powerband sucks ****ing ***. Im looking at it as usable power

 

Well. do what you need to do. we've already given you money saving / power making advice. We understand you're looking at most of the "usable" power and torque under the curve. We're not going to keep repeating ourselves for saying the same thing.

Otherwise, GET THE 3 BAR sensor. If you don't make your 300whp by 10psi, you're going to regret it later if it actually takes 11-13. Don't look at doing this by making X power by Y psi. It doesn't work that way. Plus, if you do additional work, you may make the car more efficient where it MUST take more pressure to get over your 300whp goal.

 

i feel ya, and advice is always good. And its a goal because i wanna see if i can hit the 275-300 on 6psi, if it doesnt than so be it but its cool to have a goal, i think it makes it more fun. Im slowly deciding between manifolds atm, aint as easy as i thought