Is there a trick to Injector Clips?
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Is there a trick to getting injector clips to work? Im trying to install my RC saturated 550s with RC clips on a '00 GSR. Damn car wont start. Troubleshot the problem down to the clips. Spark plugs in 3/4 cylinders are dry after cranking. Wire polarity was kept the same even tho I was told it doesnt matter, and wires are soldered well. Used a multimeter on all the clips, they all have power on the same pin - same voltage 9.79 and resistance 40.0 ohms across all clips. No resistor box as these are saturated on a OBD-2 car.
Reseated all clips many, many times. Tried gently tapping on the clips with a mallet. The one injector that did work (wet plug) doesnt anymore, so that tells me the clip maybe isnt making good contact with the injector pins?
This is pissing me off!
Reseated all clips many, many times. Tried gently tapping on the clips with a mallet. The one injector that did work (wet plug) doesnt anymore, so that tells me the clip maybe isnt making good contact with the injector pins?
This is pissing me off!
are the injectors new???? did you try switching the injectors around (the wet plugs to the dry)??? also does it even try to start, is there an injector code stored.....
Landon
Landon
Why did you replace the clips for an obd 2 car when you bought the injectors its for?....You should have just had to remove the old injectors and place the new ones in...no need for injector clip changing, I thought RC made plug and play injectors.....
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I dont need a resistor box, they are saturated type injectors (same as stock). They are not plug and play, they require an OBD1 style connector to be wired in. These are brand new injectors. I tested them prior with a 9v battery and they click on and off. Car cranks over, sounds like it kinda starts then dies (thats the one injector that worked). I didnt try swapping the injectors around (i know they are good, I tested them with a battery). I have good consistent power right down to the clips, tested with a multimeter.
This is on a AEM EMS (so no CEL) properly setup for the RC 550 injectors. Car was running fine today before the new injectors.
Has anyone had trouble with RC injector clips? They are so tight its so hard to even get them to snap on, its hard to tell if they are fully connected. Getting them off is even harder. They seem like really low quality clips.
This is on a AEM EMS (so no CEL) properly setup for the RC 550 injectors. Car was running fine today before the new injectors.
Has anyone had trouble with RC injector clips? They are so tight its so hard to even get them to snap on, its hard to tell if they are fully connected. Getting them off is even harder. They seem like really low quality clips.
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I wanted to follow up on this with the conclusion.
In the beginning I thought the problem was my AEM EMS. I was using firmware 1.03 so I thought I was up to date. I had selected RC 550s in the battery offset menu to calibrate the system for my injectors. After it didn't work I started doing some research on the AEM forums. I found out that there is multiple revisions of 1.03 and that 1.03i was the latest. I was on 1.03g. I upgraded everything and found that the new revision supported twice as many injectors this time with the right type of RC 550s (12.3 ohm, saturated)that I had. Uploaded my new map, car started but idled like a tank at 100rpm.
Shut it off, pulled the plugs, 2/4 were dry. I had installed new NGK BCPR7ES-11 (gapped at .032") so I could easily tell which ones were getting fuel or not. Pulled off all the injector clips. Convinced it was my soldering (which was pretty good actually), I tested everything again with my multimeter. In my original post I had tested power from the clips using the other pin in the connector for ground (this was wrong). This time I used the chassis for ground and I got 12.4v in every injector clip. Measured the resistance of every injector at 12.5 ohm. All my wiring, all my ECU, all my fuses are good.
I reseated the connectors then tried to start the car with the stock ECU. It started, ran just as horrible. Stopped and pulled the plugs again. This time 3/4 were wet but #3 was dry again. I then switched #4 connector onto the #3 injector because #4 was known to be good. Cranked it over, #3 still dry. #3 was always dry so I was convinced that injector was bad.
I then pulled the injectors out of the rail for like the 3rd time, switch them all into different cylinders. Reseated everything. Cranked it over with the AEM EMS. Fired up, idled like normal. I jiggled all the injector wires, no sputters, nothing. Everything is solid now.
I have absolutely no idea what was wrong or what I did but they magically work now. Reminds me of troubleshooting computer hardware. Sometimes its just real flaky.
In the beginning I thought the problem was my AEM EMS. I was using firmware 1.03 so I thought I was up to date. I had selected RC 550s in the battery offset menu to calibrate the system for my injectors. After it didn't work I started doing some research on the AEM forums. I found out that there is multiple revisions of 1.03 and that 1.03i was the latest. I was on 1.03g. I upgraded everything and found that the new revision supported twice as many injectors this time with the right type of RC 550s (12.3 ohm, saturated)that I had. Uploaded my new map, car started but idled like a tank at 100rpm.
Shut it off, pulled the plugs, 2/4 were dry. I had installed new NGK BCPR7ES-11 (gapped at .032") so I could easily tell which ones were getting fuel or not. Pulled off all the injector clips. Convinced it was my soldering (which was pretty good actually), I tested everything again with my multimeter. In my original post I had tested power from the clips using the other pin in the connector for ground (this was wrong). This time I used the chassis for ground and I got 12.4v in every injector clip. Measured the resistance of every injector at 12.5 ohm. All my wiring, all my ECU, all my fuses are good.
I reseated the connectors then tried to start the car with the stock ECU. It started, ran just as horrible. Stopped and pulled the plugs again. This time 3/4 were wet but #3 was dry again. I then switched #4 connector onto the #3 injector because #4 was known to be good. Cranked it over, #3 still dry. #3 was always dry so I was convinced that injector was bad.
I then pulled the injectors out of the rail for like the 3rd time, switch them all into different cylinders. Reseated everything. Cranked it over with the AEM EMS. Fired up, idled like normal. I jiggled all the injector wires, no sputters, nothing. Everything is solid now.
I have absolutely no idea what was wrong or what I did but they magically work now. Reminds me of troubleshooting computer hardware. Sometimes its just real flaky.
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