aiight, I'm boosted and lovin it. I'm savin for the EMS, and have a question. I'm thinking that I might be able to get more power out of my ride by switching to a flared to 3" dp and a 3" cat. Yes, I know that running without a cat will make more power, but I love my planet

So, does a flared to 3" dp make a significant difference in power? Will it make a significant difference in power going to a 3" cat? If not, then I will just stick with my current setup which is making a sick amount of power on 6lbs, see sig.


f23a1 for life

 

What turbo are you running? If the turbine outlet is less than or equal to 2.5", then flaring from 2.5 to 3" as close to the turbo as possible will work good. My flare is DIRECTLY on the flange. How big is your current downpipe?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What turbo are you running? If the turbine outlet is less than or equal to 2.5", then flaring from 2.5 to 3" as close to the turbo as possible will work good. My flare is DIRECTLY on the flange. How big is your current downpipe?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Precision GT3561. I belive the turbine outlet is 2.5" or less, but some of the turbo gods can correct me on that. I already have a 2.5" dp on the car going to a 2.5" high flow cat.

 

oh yeah,

what does the great Corkey Bell "Maximum Boost" book say on the subject about exhaust gas and flow charactersitics about dp sizing.

Yes I know, "No Exhaust is optimal", but for those who live on the street, thats not a option.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jmal1919 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So, does a flared to 3" dp make a significant difference in power?
f23a1 for life </TD></TR></TABLE>

# 1- nice numbers

2- ive seen gains from 5-10hp by adding a 3" downpipe to turbocharged systems..

2.5-3" flare is way better then solid 2.5", but the main goal there is also, as you continue to grow, tune and build.. you ll gain more and more out of it all together


good luck on your choice

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KTeller8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"># 1- nice numbers

2- ive seen gains from 5-10hp by adding a 3" downpipe to turbocharged systems..

2.5-3" flare is way better then solid 2.5", but the main goal there is also, as you continue to grow, tune and build.. you ll gain more and more out of it all together


good luck on your choice </TD></TR></TABLE>


thanks

There is limited space in the accord bay and didn't think there was room for a full 3" dp.

 

Just a tip,
your ignition timing will be a little "safer" if you run as close to 10psi as you can on the hack.
In any case its still going to be overly advanced, but around 10psi w/ a few degrees
manual retard at the distributor is going to be the safest bet until you get yor EMS.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rioninja &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just a tip,
your ignition timing will be a little "safer" if you run as close to 10psi as you can on the hack.
In any case its still going to be overly advanced, but around 10psi w/ a few degrees
manual retard at the distributor is going to be the safest bet until you get yor EMS.</TD></TR></TABLE>

With the f23a1, you CANNOT manually retard the timing at the distributor. Can you explain more how running close to 10psi with the hack will be safer without changing the base timing?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jmal1919 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

With the f23a1, you CANNOT manually retard the timing at the distributor. Can you explain more how running close to 10psi with the hack will be safer without changing the base timing? </TD></TR></TABLE>

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=841443

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by swlabhot &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=841443</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've read that before, but this line makes me think that you still need to retard your timing

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Now, heaven forfend you should have paid me a lick of attention when I advised people that running as much boost as the stock Honda MAP sensor is capable of reading is your route to safety with the AFC hack. Note how you end up within a degree or so of your otherwise normal ignition timing when you transition into boost. You can't help the transitory high ignition advance you pass through, but with how quickly turbos spool in most cases it doesn't matter; you spend the bulk of your time during the boost event at full boost, and if you have retarded your distributor 2-3 degrees you should have adequate ignition retard under boost.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Maybe the great J. Davis can help me out in my quest.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jmal1919 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I've read that before, but this line makes me think that you still need to retard your timing
Maybe the great J. Davis can help me out in my quest.</TD></TR></TABLE>


might need to look into a MTB or ignition system upgrade~

also could think of going to obd1 so that you can adjust the timing!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KTeller8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


might need to look into a MTB or ignition system upgrade~

also could think of going to obd1 so that you can adjust the timing!</TD></TR></TABLE>


naw, don't like the BTM retard per pound of boost setup. Not going to convert to OBD1, just going to save up for an EMS, and possible other small tweeks.

 

never mind.

for my power goals, it would be yet more money wasted.

 

yea don't waste money on a btm now when your going to be getting a standalone.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC_MShue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea don't waste money on a btm now when your going to be getting a standalone.</TD></TR></TABLE>

wasen't talkin about the BTM, but getting a flared dp to 3".