Got a couple questions for the b16 turbo guys and/or anyone that has knowledge regarding this set up. Before I start shopping around for a turbo set up, I would like know which brand offers a reliable turbo and manifold? Keep in mind this is for a DD and I want to keep AC and PS. As far as HP goes, anywhere near 300 give or take is my goal on a stock motor with a proper tune. That being said, what should the rest of my set up look like to reach this goal?

Turbo?
Walbro fuel pump 255
RC 440 injectors
Piping size 2.5" or 3"?
Intercooler type and size?
Fuel management and ecu?
Intake mani?

There's a tons of posts regarding turbo set ups, but not too much on AC compatible b16. Someone has to be running a nice set up on their em1. Please post

 

GO-AUTOWORKS Turbo Kits Honda Civic Acura Integra D16 B16 B18

 

Be warned. Unless you take drastic steps to insulate the compressor from heat you will kill compressors. AC will be fine for a while until the air gets hotter and hotter till the compressor dies (seals normally).

 

Thanks for the warning. I'm surprised I haven't heard of the compressor problem. So even running low boost 8-10psi, the compressor could and would fail eventually cause of the heat?

The autoworks turbo kits look pretty decent. Are you running this kit Ls joker?

 

boost levels have nothing to do with EGTs

 

no i have a 09 gen afi turbo kit with a go autoworks gt500 fmic, and different turbo.

 

Wouldn't the exhaust gas temp rise due to a high levels of boost with stock internals? I was hoping there was a reliable turbo setup that'll salvage my AC and PS.

 

Yes, but with the correct amount of fuel, that is tapered to acceptable levels. But please remember, there's no direct correlation with the exhaust gas temperature and its level of exigent heat with regard to engine bay temperatures to actually affect that air-con compressor right?

Ambient engine bay temperatures in relation to increased cylinder pressure temperatures, affect the air-con units by way of not insulating, isolating, and relocating the high temperature parts from the air-con unit.

 

Can you eloborate on those measures others have taken? Duct routing? Tucked radiators w/dual fan set-ups? Just curious.

In theory, would a top mount guy have a better chance at keeping the compressor cooler? The turbine will definitely have a blanket over it.

I know the a/c in general is a long shot but I did just have a top mount made to clear ac ps and I'm shooting for the stars but its just too damn hot in Texas.

I'm trying to come up with an ideal intercooler/radiator/fans/ac condenser/oil cooler combo & this feels like trigonometry 101.

 

I noticed on the Full Race website, they posted a pic of their AC set up where it blocks the AC fan from the manifold and turbo with a piece of aluminum. But the compressor looks exposed and uninsulated. If anyone here has a bseries with AC, post up your set up and if you have had problems with your AC. Also is 250-300 hp possible with the restricted space in the engine bay while using stock internals...

 

I've had a b16a2 turbocharged setup with ac since 2010-2011 now....it sucks ***


when it's not THAT hot it's fine but when it's 90+ outside temp and you're not really moving in stop and go traffic, the ac gets lukewarm


idk if there's something wrong with my system but it has a brand new condenser and oem fan and even new evaporator/receiver/drier

 

Thanks for responding. What set up did you use and how much boost were you running? Did you have it dynoed if so what was your HP?

If the problem with the AC compressor dying is Because of the outside temp being above 90 than I wouldn't use the AC or even drive far on those days unless I absolutely have to. If the compressor would die regardless of what the temp is outside than that's a big problem.

 

It was a simple log manifold set up, made in the ballpark of 290-300whp

My biggest piece of advice I can give is get as much parts coated, as in ceramic coating or jethot coating or whatever else is out there. Manifold and downpipe coated would play a MASSIVE difference in underhood temps which would correlate to a more efficient AC system. I wish I did this the first time around.....

 

The top of the line AC compatible manifolds would be revhard, inlinepeo, and drag correct? If so I would pick up the inlinepro which should be coated but an additional coating wouldn't hurt.

Do you recall your set up besides the log manifold, what else did you use to achieve 290-300 hp besides a proper tune?

 

^no

revhard has been out of business for years
as has drag

get out of the 2004 mindset

 

Those manifolds would be on the list 12-15 years ago, but not now, no.

Proper tune,
550cc or larger injectors
Walboro 255 or similar
40-48lbs/min compressor with 21lbs/min exhaust wheel
Exedy 08950B clutch , stock flywheel
2.5"-3" downpipe and full exhaust system.

That's it.

 

Pretty basic setup...log manifold,PTE 5431b,2.5" coldside piping,3"DP/exhaust,RC 550s,Walbro 255,Tial 38mm WG, Greddy RS BOV,it also has ITR cams which probably made zero difference, tuned on ectune

 

I wasn't aware drag and revhard was finished. I was reading a few dated posts and came to the conclusion inline would be the ideal manifold out of the bunch for an AC set up.

^ did you have any issues with emissions with that set up? Any cel?

 

Most of us using these setups with vented BOVs and dumptubes from these newer kits, don't worry about emissions.

CELs don't show up when you're tuned. These aren't running stock ECUs.

 

and here's where I say go read the FAQs

things are different, we have the technology now lol

 

Whoops again lol. I guess I'm stuck in the past. Here in NYC emissions is done every year, there's a few places I know that use the OBD2 scanner to look for cels and don't do a visual.

That's one of my concerns...

 

And they still may. But you need to read those FAQs, and contact people from the NYC area that concern themselves with such things as to how they go through those obstacles, as testing parameters are on a a state-by-state basis.

 

Definitely ask local people around how they get around emissions because there is nothing compliant about this setup lol

 

passing emissions with an obd2 turbo car that has been converted to obd1 is simple

remove obd1 ecu and adapter harness
replace current injectors with stock injectors
replace any sensors with stock
pull spring from wastegate, or a charge pipe, or both.

drive it 50 miles or so and it should complete the readiness checks, then you're ready to pass emissions. When you're done just swap everything back

If it is OBD1 then just have a good catalytic converter on it and you are good to go

 

Thanks for the heads up. I'll ask around.

Wantboost, I have a 99 civic si which is obd2. I read something on the little obstacle you mentioned.