way to clean....way way to clean

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BTW a fan with more blades is usually the way to go when forcing air through something. A smaller blade can be a bit more efficienct, and by that I mean higher pressure. Pressure drop will kill your flow, which is why cheap fans don't flow much in real situations.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

how can you say that when the 5 blade 12" outflows the curved blade 12"? the 5 blade is highest flowing fan in every size they have up to 12", for some reason they don't make a 13", not sure why, maybe it would be too thick as the 5 blade is a bit thicker than the curved blade fan....

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">More pics and info on my site.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

does it come in gold? i keed i keed, very nice

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">More pics and info on my site.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

how much for just the shroud, i already have the fan and radiator.

 

Sorry guys, we're only doing these in complete kits, the shrouds are not for sale separately.

 

i think it's a good combo. all in one custom made too, attention to detail

 

That **** looks pretty nice. I mean not as nice as mine but, lol....

 

that's an awsome shroud. I would pay to have that set-up...damn, so would the fan/shroud combo ever come available anytime soon?

 

The fan/shroud combo is available right now, and it comes with a free radiator. lol

 

that's 2 things I have to purchase from you now

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blinx9900 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how can you say that when the 5 blade 12" outflows the curved blade 12"?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I guess I forgot, not everyone knows how fans are rated. 99.99641% of fans are rated in "Free Air" - held on place w/o anything around it. Industrial fans are rated kinda like a turbo - flow based on pressure, and have their own graph. Thats one reason a Comair Rotron fan can cost $250 and only flow 220cfm...

Say you have 2 fans - stock, and a 1" smaller diameter (same thickness) fan with 15 blades. If they are rated at 750cfm and 650cfm, they will probably end up pushing the same amount of air through the stock radiator. Quadruple the thickness (stock vs aftermarket), and there's a good chance the 4-blade fan won't move crap.

I'm not making this up. When you have several more blades, you generally have more surface area to create more pressure. Less blades create less resistance, meaning more 'free air' flow, but less when the fan has to make pressure (backpressure). This can be clearly seen with 'squirel cage' blowers with 50+ blades. They don't flow a lot of raw CFM, but they can create lots of pressure vs axial fans with 1/5 the blades.


If the 'free air' CFM rating was the same for all pressures, nobody would buy a Garrett - we'd all have EBAY SUPERCHARGERS (and they'd work!).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I guess I forgot, not everyone knows how fans are rated. 99.99641% of fans are rated in "Free Air" - held on place w/o anything around it. Industrial fans are rated kinda like a turbo - flow based on pressure, and have their own graph. Thats one reason a Comair Rotron fan can cost $250 and only flow 220cfm...

Say you have 2 fans - stock, and a 1" smaller diameter (same thickness) fan with 15 blades. If they are rated at 750cfm and 650cfm, they will probably end up pushing the same amount of air through the stock radiator. Quadruple the thickness (stock vs aftermarket), and there's a good chance the 4-blade fan won't move crap.

I'm not making this up. When you have several more blades, you generally have more surface area to create more pressure. Less blades create less resistance, meaning more 'free air' flow, but less when the fan has to make pressure (backpressure). This can be clearly seen with 'squirel cage' blowers with 50+ blades. They don't flow a lot of raw CFM, but they can create lots of pressure vs axial fans with 1/5 the blades.


If the 'free air' CFM rating was the same for all pressures, nobody would buy a Garrett - we'd all have EBAY SUPERCHARGERS (and they'd work!). </TD></TR></TABLE>

interesting, thank you for taking the time to explain that.

So you are saying that: my 5 blade has great numbers, the 13" also has great numbers, both are rated in free air and by design the 13" would flow more when mounted to radiator due to the fact that it has to pull through it which is the pressure?

 

made my own and i may consider making a bunch





Modified by HybridcivicLS-T at 3:28 PM 9/23/2008

 

^^^^shroud looks really good. what is it made out of? seems like you've been doing all kinds of fab work lately (vented hood, tunerview, now this shroud) looking good man.

i need to pick up this spal 13" real soon. might as well put a shroud on while im at it

 

Let me know. I'm going to do a few just to see if anyone is interested.

 

another fan question. what temps are you guys turning fans on? i know neptune has fan control, hondata does not. are you guys using the facotry thermoswitch? fan wired to a switch?

im thinking have the fans on sooner should help our lack of airflow issues, maybe avoid hacking up bumbers but still get good flow to the rad.

 

hondata does allow you to change it. It has to be wired into pin A12. turning the an on early with a weak fan doesn't help lack of air flow. just means the fan is turning on earlier.

i will be turning mine on at 180 or 185 i havent decided yet.

 

a12 is the fan control, what do you wire into it? some type of auxilary output on the hondata? can you tell hondata to turn the fan on at a certain temp or is it just a manual switch that you control? will the stock thermoswitch still engage or will it be bypassed?

 

everything will be normal as far as the thermostat opening. it opens at 79*c. YOu wire it from the 12v side of the water temp sensor.

 

what about being lazy and just running a mugen fan switch? fans come on at 80*C. any disadvantage to running them that cool? i figure as lng as the car is styaing in operating temp range 180-200 then it should be fine

 

i run stock. why would you run a switch that opens later? it's only 1degree diff, but just doesnt make since. Just run stock

 

Here is the one I made the other day...





I put screws through the tabs holding the shroud on the next day after realizing the hot glue might melt. LOL

 

you may be better of using epoxy for that, or some type of JB weld if you can't weld it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HybridcivicLS-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you may be better of using epoxy for that, or some type of JB weld if you can't weld it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I got a welder but I did not have any argon. I got impatient and I just glued it on. I took the glue off and screwed them instead but I am going to end up welding it.

 

sweet yeah screws would work better than hot glue. that stuff sucks pretty bad

 

im refering to the fan switch (thermoswitch) not the thermostat, basically i was asking if there would be a problem if the fans were on at 80*C instead of 93*C stock.

so instead of wiring into hondata just use a 80* fan switch and use all the stock wiring.