slight fuel problem...need help
here's the setup, and the problem...any help would be great
running 8psi on a d16z6 in a crx. as far as fuel system goes i have the stock pump in-tank, a NOS 255lph in-line between the filter and fuel rail, FMU from a drag 3 kit, and running stock injectors, and the fmu is at 12:1 which is what you are supposed to run with stock injectors....the problem is, when i go into full boost the injectors lock from too much pressure, and the car stutters, but while i was running trying to figure out the problem, it just all of a sudden stopped the stutter, and ran great. turns out i split the line between the regulator and the fmu, but it was running better due to the fact that the pressure dropped, and the stock injectors could flow....now the question is. if i turn the fmu down to 8:1 i won't have enough pressure, and i'll go lean, but if i step up the injectors to like 310's or so, then i would flow too much..should i up the injectors and go 8:1 on the fmu, or just try the 310's on the 12:1 setting?...or if you have any other suggestions that might help, that would be great...thanks in advance guys...
running 8psi on a d16z6 in a crx. as far as fuel system goes i have the stock pump in-tank, a NOS 255lph in-line between the filter and fuel rail, FMU from a drag 3 kit, and running stock injectors, and the fmu is at 12:1 which is what you are supposed to run with stock injectors....the problem is, when i go into full boost the injectors lock from too much pressure, and the car stutters, but while i was running trying to figure out the problem, it just all of a sudden stopped the stutter, and ran great. turns out i split the line between the regulator and the fmu, but it was running better due to the fact that the pressure dropped, and the stock injectors could flow....now the question is. if i turn the fmu down to 8:1 i won't have enough pressure, and i'll go lean, but if i step up the injectors to like 310's or so, then i would flow too much..should i up the injectors and go 8:1 on the fmu, or just try the 310's on the 12:1 setting?...or if you have any other suggestions that might help, that would be great...thanks in advance guys...
DSM 450's and an AFC.
Then you can ditch your FMU altogether, and you wouldn't really need that inline eaither. How much do 310's cost, like $300? You can get an AFC for that much, then you could sell your FMU and inline for like another $200, which is more than enough to get some DSM 450's, cleaning, and a resistor pack.
Then you can ditch your FMU altogether, and you wouldn't really need that inline eaither. How much do 310's cost, like $300? You can get an AFC for that much, then you could sell your FMU and inline for like another $200, which is more than enough to get some DSM 450's, cleaning, and a resistor pack.
i already have the resistor box (crx)..i have access to a set of 450's for $50, and i have access to a set of rc 310's for almost free...i'd kinda like to stay with the set up i have, just work with it...
I guess you just answered your own question, then.
Throw the 310's in and get an 8:1 disc. But if that doesn't solve your sticking problem, then I don't see how you're going to get around that without running without an FMU...
Throw the 310's in and get an 8:1 disc. But if that doesn't solve your sticking problem, then I don't see how you're going to get around that without running without an FMU...
ur doing the same thing i am..i just bought my 310's today... im gonna go w/an 8:1...or maybe even a 6:1...just buy a vortech recalibration set...u can buy the whole thing for like 50 or they sell them seperate for like 10 bucks each...
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